1. The carb being gummed would be the possible issue IMO. Checked and cleaned should clear that need if not more. With corn gas, check for a swollen float needle seat to know the engine will get good fuel. The up-side-down level float test and rubber seatâÂÂs appearance might tell the story or it starts and appears to run out of gas.

2. Naturally, Check for Fire/spark, Fuel and Compression and if all are fair it should run.

3. I like your approach of seeing if it will run before spending on un-needed work or parts.

Good Luck!

Since that carb doesn't have a float or needle........

Download the IPL for your specific engine from the Briggs website.
That'll have some exploded view drawings that will show the proper orientation of your parts.

Chances are, the diaphragm will be bad.
It's a rather inexpensive part and most any small engine repair shop should have several in stock. It's almost a "consumable" item. You'll need the MODEL, TYPE & CODE. (good to post that here too, so we know exactly WHICH Briggs you have.

IF it doesn't seem to get gas, replace the diaphragm.
While you have it off, take a can of spray carb cleaner and blast through the 2 holes under the diaphragm with the "straw".
One goes to the fuel pick up in the tank and the other is the orifice to the venturi. make sure both are clear.

This post was edited by bill_kapaun on Tue, Mar 5, 13 at 14:17

"tank mounted carb"! Eliminated the seat, needle and bowl etc..

I would change the oil first, remove the spary plug spray carb cleaner down the spark plug hole and pull the rope with the ingition off. This will lubricate and clean out the comb chamber, Next I would check for spark while I have the spark plug out. Put the plug back in and It should fire off carb. cleaner sprayed down the venturi if you want to know it will run. while you have the carb. apart I would also check the bottom of the pick-up tube, the wire mesh screen will probably be rusted/clogged and not flow correctly or at all???

Once I got it to fire and if flat head engine along with cleaning the carb. I would also de-carbonize the combustion chamber. But, that's me I do things over the top most of the time.

Carb cleaner "lubricating" the cc?
I don't think so!

I don't think so! OK prime instead of lubricate (lubricate would be something wet on the dry rings and would prime the CC kinda like dumping raw gas down the carb. but IMO BETTER , don't like that? OK glad you don't.

I want to thank Loger, Bill K and RC for their comments on starting a a Briggs that has been sitting.. I used most of the approach(s) you all suggested and got it running. I am going to have to rebuild the carb. but i am very happy to have the good result so far. This is a great place with great people. Thanks again
Rick

I am a 2 stroke mechanic as my real job. about 6 years ago our local NAPA started selling a duel purpose carb cleaner/ starting fluid. it spicificly listed upper lube safe for 2 strokes. I have a show me aditude so the sales man took a string trimmer clamped the fuel line and ran it for 2 cans (about 12 min) wide open. It did not over heat and I pulled the muffler and the piston and cylinder looked great. Our shop of 12 uses about 12-24 cans a week and he made his sale.