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Need help with my tiller please

17 years ago

I just bought a decent looking tiller off of Craig's list for $25. A great deal if I can get it going.

I'm a pretty handy guy but know very little about small engines. I'm hoping someone here can help me.

I'm also hoping that it's okay that I post this here,

if not please move.

The tiller is a Murray, 5hp. It looks to be in good condition with the exception that someone added a shut off

switch and then the next owner's dog pulled it out and chewed it off.

I found a loose wire near the solenoid, I'm guessing that's

where one wire goes, but I have no idea where the other one goes.

I have links to photos below to help show what I'm talking about.

Thanks for any help


http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f87/demarestduo/tiller/loosewire.jpg


http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f87/demarestduo/tiller/homemadeshutoff.jpg

Comments (5)

  • 17 years ago

    The wire goes to the switch which should be grounded to the frame. When the switch is closed, this circuit is grounded killing the spark and thereby shutting off the engine.

  • 17 years ago

    You can also leave the kill wire disconnected and use a old fashioned kill strap to short out the plug. Briggs and others used these up thru the 1960's and 70's and were simple, cheap, and effective.

    Since your tiller doesn't have electronic ignition, you're probably going to have to get at the points, which entails pulling off the flywheel. Best way to do so is with special Briggs tools. You can use more common tools, but usual result is broken flywheel fins and scraped knuckles.

    You may want to consider replacing existing ignition coil with electronic coil. Cost about $35 and will double your investment, but these coils are pretty much bullet proof. Simple to do, just common hand tools, and no need to remove the flywheel.

  • 17 years ago

    Sorry to be just now getting back.

    Okay, so if I'm understanding ya'll correctly, I should
    be able to start it up with out rehooking up the wire, right?
    I put the spark plug wire about 1/6" away from the spark plug and pulled the cord and didn't get a spark. That means
    that I'm not getting juice right? Bad solenoid?

    "You may want to consider replacing existing ignition coil with electronic coil. "

    Can you lead me to a site that show me how to that?

    Thanks again for your help.

  • 17 years ago

    What you're calling a "solenoid" is the ignition coil. As for kill wire, you are correct. If unconnected, you should get spark. If shorted to ground, you will not get any spark. That's why it's called kill wire.

    Since you don't have any spark, as I said in earlier post, you are going to have to replace or at least dress (file), clean and gap the points. You may also have to replace condenser. To do any of this, you must remove starter clutch and flywheel. Both should use special tools to do correctly.

    That's why I suggested replacing old coil with electronic ignition. New electronic coil is Briggs# 397398 and costs $35 to $40. Only tool required is 5/16 nutdriver to remove mounting screws. Old wires are simply clipped off and you throw away old coil. There is a spade terminal on the new coil to connect a "kill" or grounding switch to shut off mower.

    The link has the 397398 about 1/2 way down.

    You can also use the 394970 Retrofit Kit at the bottom. It costs about $17 and converts your existing coil. Cheaper but requires more work. Also, if you old coil is bad you've just poured $17 down the toilet, and will still need the $40 397398.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Jack's Small Engine - Ignition Coils

  • 17 years ago

    ggoyeneche,

    Thank you very much for you help.
    One more quick question, I went to the site you listed
    and couldn't find 397398

    Could you have meant this one?:

    Replacement Ignition Coil for Briggs

    Replaces Briggs 397358
    Fits models 133200, 133700, 135200 and 135700
    For 5 HP vertical and horizontal(except Quantum engines)

    Part# 440401

    Our Price: $41.36