I have used Sears Openers since about 1984, âÂÂAll Usedâ with very limited problems (with oil/grease/adjustments as needed from inspections, signs of wear, Etc).

1. Mechanical, the chain/cable combo has not lasted as well as just chain, both are workable.

2. Mechanical, plastic gears have failed once (of two main units) and a kit was easily installed.

3. Electrical, Storms have smoked both receivers at least once and I had extras with 4-6 openers.

4. Electrical, the original opener given to me needed a starting capacitor verified by electrical supply.

5. Sears Openers and Backups are all running strong but will not support the eye vs pressure safety.

Back to your issue, IMO your steel frame work is basically generic to all. Will the door try to operate? When operating it manually do you feel any resistance? If so what is causing the resistance (foundation shifting causing drag, lack of oil/grease) which will cause the door to reverse or stop? If you get a half effort of the door trying to start, it might be a bad starting capacitor (which a Cap bench test will spot). My last issue was spotting too much slack in the chain/cable combo and damaged cable. Spotted a bad plastic cable pulley and replaced with all chain and a steel sprocket.

Finally, I have Mixed, Matched Repaired or just replaced the complete drive units only. âÂÂAllâ are 1/3 - ý HP M/N # 139.663900 Series/Types.

Bad plastic pulley =

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Steel sprocket and chain =

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Loger,

My problem at the moment is I started using the side of the garage with the bad door opener as my workshop for deck repair. I set up my table saw and other equipment in the car parking space. When winter was coming on I decided to park the equipment and return my car to the garage. So this goes back a few months. As I just didn't get around to fixing it. And I have forgotten the details of what I ran into.

But, I think I tried to open the door when the manual lock was engaged, and it tore the main lift rail off the wall over the garage. I reinstalled that and then found the door wouldn't lift. When I disengage the chain and lift the door manually it opens and closes reasonably well, so the door tracks are still in reasonable shape.

I did screw around with the up/down stops bur couldn't get them to work. I have over the years made fine adjustments so that the door would raise up full, and close so the bottom touches the floor. The adjustments are not complicated, but I wasn't making good progress so I just forgot about it and left my car outside; My wife's car/door work so she can park inside, that is a must.

I now have some time to work on the door, taxes are done, and thought why not just replace all the stuff that wears out and just keep the iron work. I figured any chain/cable (or all chain) should be able to use the iron work I have.

âÂÂBut, I think I tried to open the door when the manual lock was engaged, and it tore the main lift rail off the wall over the garage. I reinstalled that and then found the door wouldn't lift. When I disengage the chain and lift the door manually it opens and closes reasonably well, so the door tracks are still in reasonable shape.âÂÂ

What actually happens when you attempt to use the door?

1. Is the motor running? Remove the cover if so to verify no broken/stripped gears

2. If the chain is moving, possibly something was damaged at the door/chain/mech connection and noticeable.