You can download an operators manual from Briggs for the engine part.
It should be a 10M902-0397-E1
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/

Check the link

Here is a link that might be useful: Link

Thank You for the info. It's now up and running.
:o)

Basiclly, you lift the throttle to the run position (about half way or less). push the primer button 4 to 6 times if it has one, turn the choke on. Pull the rope till it fires or attempts to run let the choke off half way so it won't choke out, if it does let the choke off alittle and pull the rope again. Let it warm up some then push the choke off all the way. They usually start pretty easily as long as it was stored properly and not in storage over a year or two. If it still won't hit you may have to do a Fuel system cleanup and prime the engine.

Glad it's running. You providing the numbers made it SO much easier! I wish more posters did that.

Thank You for all the help.
I am having a bit of trouble keeping it running. I'm getting a different type of whirring noise while it's 'digging in' , then it stalls out. I found out that it shouldn't be tipped forward because the air filter gets oiled up.OOOPS... So I removed it and cleaned it.
I haven't used it since last spring and should change out the oil. Can I run 10w 30 in it? I think I need to clean the spark plug too.
That should keep me busy for a while....kinda hurts to move today Getting too old for this.Time to pass the torch to the younger generation with the hopes that they don't screw up and lose a limb.

Thanks again
Julie

If the paper air filter got "oiled", replace it. Period!
Use fresh gas only. if you still have some old gas in the can, dump it in the car and get fresh.
Tillers tend to sit a long time without being used, so using a gas "preservative" like Stabil or similar is a good idea. Especially during the machines last use or 2.

IF you feel the spark plug actually needs to be cleaned, you might want to just replace it? Chances are however, that just running it for awhile with fresh fuel and a NEW air cleaner will allow it to "clean itself". You could always inspect it later.

Thanks Bill
I cleaned the air filter (it's a sponge type).
Changed the gas too. Picking up a new spark plug tomorrow.
Funny thing...I sold my VW Bug last year because I was tired of having to work on it all the time. Took up gardening instead... who knew.

Julie

I forgot to mention the oil.
IF I were you, I'd look for 30 wt, since you live in SD.
I prefer a diesel rated or high mileage oil, since they have some anti-wear additives that can't be used in cars with catalytic converters. I think they are ideal for small engine use.
A new plug can "fix" a multitude of ills. I think it's about the most "cost effective" way to throw money at an engine and often works!
IF the poor running persists, you might want to dump a strong dose of carb cleaner in the gas tank. Only use enough gas in the tank that you can effectively use up when doing this. I stored my tiller with a "strong dose" of carb cleaner and the tank was badly rusted the following Spring. The CCleaner was the only thing different in my "procedure", so I blame it.

Bill-K I've used diesel oil in my cars and trucks for years that have catilyic converters, NO problems that I can see. Do you have some information on that. I tried 'google' no good results :( Thanks

I didn't say there were problems.
The oils I refer to have phosphorus and zinc as anti-wear additives and they work well!
At least one of them "poisons" the cat however. The "newer" (SM?)auto oils are subbing molybdenum etc. for the older additives.
There is some discussion about the "newer rated" oils NOT protecting OLDER valve train parts such as cams & lifters.

I'm not aware of any evidence proving the new oils are actually "saving" cats! My former 87 Accord has had DELO most its life and is still passing Cal. smog rules for my brother. It has the original cat.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php