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chris_va

Stubborn Steering Wheel....

16 years ago

Ok...I am not in the habit of showing my stupidity, but here goesÂ. I am trying to remover a steering wheel from an older garden tractor. I've gotten the nut off, but the wheel refuses to separate from the shaft, I have gear puller on it, but the ears do not quite extend far enough under the lip of the hub to engage the metal part, and are pulling on the plastic. I have put as much pressure on it as I dare and have rapped the center shaft of the puller that rest on the end of the steering shaft as hard as I dare. Used plenty of "PB Blaster", but this thing acts as thought it is welded onto the shaft. If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would surely be appreciated. Thanks Guys!

Comments (10)

  • 16 years ago

    You could run an extension cord, and gently heat the steering wheel with a hair dryer. A second application of penetrating oil, as the assembly cools, might do the trick. I would let the steering wheel assembly sit overnight, after this treatment, before attempting to remove it.

  • 16 years ago

    Are there maybe 2 threaded holes in the hub of the steering wheel?, one on each side of the steering shaft?? If so, those holes are there for you to engage and use a steering wheel puller instead of a gear puller.

  • 16 years ago

    I read on another site where some were having trouble with removing threaded joints, nut/bolt, or as in this case, exhaust pipe in a threaded head.....anyhow, they were heating the threaded joint, and melting candle wax onto the threads. Presumably, the wax would infuse into the threads and the wax would then make it easier to undo. Perhaps the same thing could be done with the steering wheel. As I understood the procedure it didn't require "cherry red" heat, just enough to expand the joint to allow the wax to infuse into the threads surface. Once cooled, the procedure could be repeated until the successful removal happened.

  • 16 years ago

    Thanks for the ideas......the hub does not have any holes or indentions for a puller. I have left it overnight under tension and I'll see what happens in the morning. I may try the hair dryer idea...that would be the easest one to start with. Ill let you know if I get it off or rip it apart......SOMEthing is going to give....

  • 16 years ago

    Chris: The Hair Dryer scenario may not generate sufficient heat but a Paint Stripper (Commercial Grade Hair Dryer) lol may or a small prepo torch used carefully on the steel hub may expand the hub enough to allow removal without heat tranfer causing damage to the plastic. Other than that gently tapping the hub with a hammer while applying liquid wrench or any other form of penetrating oil may induce capillary action which will allow the penetrate to creep into the shaft and undo this galled condition. Be patient since it may take a few repeat applications..Ty !

  • 16 years ago

    ewalk...

    I thought the same thing. I'll try the hair dryer first (since I have one of those...er...or my wife does). As far as a tourch goes, due to the configuration, if I use one much of it will go directly on the plastic. Patience, I have learned, is a prerequisite for working on a 25 year plus tractor : ).

  • 16 years ago

    About beating on the shaft with a hammer: Be advised that if you strike the threaded end of the shaft repeatedly, you may damage the threads. The old tried and true trick in a situation like this is to leave the nut in place on the end of the threaded portion so that the nut is exactly flush or even with the end of the shaft threads. This will held prevent a mis-aimed blow from wiping out threads as well as help keep "mushrooming" to a minimum. Since you are already beating with a hammer, try this additionally: If you can enlist a helper, one person should STAND UP on the floorboard and pull upward with both hands (left and right hands at opposite hours of the clock) while the other person strikes the shaft or the jack bolt of the puller. With the nut in place, only a slight reaction to the person doing the pulling will be felt when the steering wheel lets go (without the nut it could turn into a backward somersault). If you are only able to work alone, try to sit on the seat and hook your knees under the rim of the steering wheel and then lift up with your feet while you strike the target spot.

  • 16 years ago

    WooHooo!! It's off. I left the puller attached and snugged up really tight last night and soaked everything down with penitrating oil. Gave it several good rapps with a hammer (on the end of puller shaft which was seated on the end of the steering wheel shaft), and went to bed. I went out this morning and took a turn on the puller and it turned with ease. Sometime during the night it came loose. Thanks to all for your responses. : ) Now to get the dash assembly off......

    Chris

  • 16 years ago

    I knew a guy who was restoring an old Jeep, and he was stuck trying to remove a suspension part, or maybe it was a brake part. He put a few drops of penetrating oil on the part, and came back a week later to try and turn the nut. He repeated this for three months, and finally, it came loose. I guess the jeep had great sentimental value to him.

  • 16 years ago

    Chris: Great to hear that the capillary action paid off over night ! Penetrating Oil are worth their weight in gold some times lol .

    P.S. Chris , There is never a stupid question Bro ! That's how we all learn lol .
    Eric: Great Minds think alike !
    Mownie: Your absolutely right on the shaft threads issue , that is why I advised tapping gently on the Hub only . Although I don't know why I did not mention an Electric Bearing Heater rather than the Paint Stripper unit lol .
    Well good luck with the dash Chris , love a Happy Ending .

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