I have used one several times. First problem is getting the rope over the branch that you want to cut. Not as easy as it sounds. Second problem is getting the saw on the branch where you want it to be cut, not where the saw wants to stay. I am not sure what the the max diameter is for the saw. I don't think I would want to try anything much over 4-5 inches across. Remember you are standing below the limb. That brings up problem #3. Make sure you are wearing safety glasses or better yet goggles, because the sawdust will fall all over you. As for cutting, well they cut pretty good and fairly quick. Kind of like cutting with a crosscut saw, you have to hang of it. Works well with two people. Get you out a ways from underneath the tree also. Then comes problem #4. When the limb falls, if it falls, one of two things will happen. The limb will come off because of it's weight on it's own, or it will simply lay back against the tree. If this happens the chain might stay on the cut or it might fall off. If it falls off, there is not much chance of getting it back in the cut. All in all, It was really more trouble that I thought it was worth. I trimed the rest of the limbs with a ladder and bow saw.

I used the "long" version from Harbor Freight to prune a monster overcup oak in my backyard a few years ago. One trick I found was once the chain was over the branch was to move off to the side bringing the chainsaw links around underneath the branch effectively making an "under cut" as you would your first cut with a chainsaw. Do it from both sides before sawing from directly underneath and the branch won't be left hanging. It's a bit of work but a WHOLE lot less pucker factor than working at the top of an extension ladder with a chain saw. I say go for it since it's a cheap investment...good luck.

Jarrall

We are also using a rope saw for high pruning, including some limbs far beyond the reach of a ladder.

I had no luck throwing the little bag weight that comes with the saw. I switched to a casting rod with a fairly heavy weight. I toss the fishing weight over the target limb (usually after several unsuccessful tries) and then use the monofilament to pull a heavy nylon cord over the limb. The nylon cord then pulls the rope saw rope over the limb. If you need to, for extra high limbs, you can simply tie extension ropes to the rope saw ropes.

The comments made in previous messages apply, except I am not giving up the rope saw in favor of a ladder and bow saw. I don't like to get too far above ground on a ladder.

I also use a pole saw to prune off lower limbs. The rope saw is used only for limbs that are out of reach of the pole saw. I'm planning on purchasing a longer pole saw. My present pole saw is limited to about 16 feet.

MM

I've seen professional arborists use a slingshot to "shoot" a bag on the end of the line. It's easier to aim and you can get more distance than hand throwing.

-Deerslayer

Yeah I have used a rope saw.
I also used a heavy fishing rod to cast a line over the branch first. But once you have finished with the rod put it safely to one side. I really mean this as it is expensive if you step on it or the branch drops on it.
Next have a set of binoculars handy to ensure the teeth on the blade are facing the branch and not looking at the sky.

Finally the above advice is pretty good, but to a big degree it also matters what you are cutting. On Radiata pine for instance the cutting is pretty easy but the bark is a real pest. It is like trying to cut through a piece of iron and if you are unlucky it will jam the blade. When this happens you just have to persevere with small or short but had jerks in each direction of the rope until you free the blade.

I have cut up to 6" diameter pine this way but only because there was no other option.

Frankly I consider a rope saw as a means of last resort.

Dock.

Dock,

"Frankly I consider a rope saw as a means of last resort."

I agree. I just got a 21-foot Silky pole saw and cut off a bunch of limbs as high as I could go with it (about 25 feet) and now I am using the rope saw for the higher limbs. It is tedious going and really makes me wish I had gotten a 28-foot pole saw.

MM

Like the idea of a sling shot. I've gotten pretty good at slinging the sand bag over high branches but sometimes not in the perfect location. As for orientation of the chain, that's what the rectangular metal bar is for. It's weight will automatically orient the cutting teeth down.

jarrall

I have a oak branches too close to my attached garage. Squerils are using it to get into my garage. I have tried with my 15 foot power pole saw ON a latter. WAY to much pucker factor. Father in law who was a fire chief for many years sugested I get a rope saw. Northern Toll has a 48in blade one for $50. My guess is the branches are 25 feet up, and maybe 6 in dia. Can me a the wife handle this? I have worked many pole saws but never a rope saw.

The one I see on Harbor Frieght's web site is only $17but only has 16 ft. of rope and says can only handle up to 3" diameter.

Hi, here is a tip for anyone using a rope saw.

The problem with the rope saw is when you throw the bean bag attached to the rope over a high branch, the bean bag and rope does not fall far enough down the otherside of the branch to be pulled down. Thus what I do is tie some string to the bean bag and then wrap it gently around the bean bag. When you throw the bean bag over the branch, the string will unravel from the bean bag, allowing you to grab it and pull the bean bag, and thus the rope and saw down to begin sawing.

Instead of a rock and hard place, using a rope saw is a choice between a high and a very expensive place. (Expensive to have a professional cut the limb or expensive to pay hospital bills if you mess up.) For branches over the height extension of a good ladder, our choices are limited. First, and foremost you must think safety. If you are going for maximum extension of a ladder ALWAYS tie off the top of the ladder to the tree--if you make a mistake at least the ladder will not shift on you. I assume you have or rent one that is rated for your weight because it is a mistake to get up on a weak ladder! IF at all possible you should secure yourself to the tree in a climbing harness when in position. Have you gone to the ER lately? Cheaper by far to have a professional climb your tree; but still not cheap. From a secure ladder position you could use a pole saw and you are getting close to 40ft high. When they come up with a two sided or strong rat tail rope saw things would be easier but for now the self righting rope saw is it and it will take a lot of fooling around. I agree that getting the weight over the limb can be difficult. Sling shots, bow and weighted arrow, and many attempts will get the rope positioned somewhere on the limb--unlikely in a cosmetically ideal place. Now it is time to cut. I agree with the two person approach because it widens the angle of a cut what will already be a "U" shaped so you are almost guaranteed a hanger (limb simply points to the ground but is still attached.) If you are lucky, now, parts of the branch are low enough to get at with your ladder: tie off with good 1/2" to 5/8" 75-100 foot rope, and find a way to set up a come-along to rip the branch off. If you don't have an extension ladder--you have done all the damage you can. Yanking at a branch is for amateurs-and dangerous. Yes, the saw is likely pinched in such a way you are wasting time trying to cut through so pulling it off is the solution. Assuming you already have a good ladder, buying good rope, and the rope saw have you are at less than $150 invested and a harness might add around $100. Price an arborist who can climb or get at your limb in a bucket truck and this will seem a small investment. Summary: a rope saw can be an inexpensive way to cut off limbs to a height of about 30 feet, and a diameter of 3-4 inches but it is going to take a good deal of work. Caution--all tree work is intrinsically dangerous--you risk doing damage to your house, your vehicles, and/or yourself if you don't really know what you are doing. SAFETY FIRST

I use a tennis ball threaded with a steel bolt through a small block of wood in the middle with a loop on the outside end, then packed with cement and allowed to harden. Then I attach a monofilament line or very light and strong nylon twine. I am able to throw up somewhere around 50-60 feet this way but it takes a lot of throws, and if you miss always disconnect the line from the ball and start over. Never pull the ball back up the tree it will wind around something and get stuck. Then i switch to heavier nylon twine then to the rope and cutter. 60 foot on each side is good. 3/4" short dowels/twigs for pulling handles, just wrap around. Wear goggles, stay out from underneath. Hope to find a way to use a slingshot or small bow and arrow to improve height. Note the tennis ball with cement is about 1/2 an ounce heavier than a baseball and smaller, which helps with dropping to the ground through branches. This is not a fool proof system. Things can get stuck in trees, and heavy limbs can fall flat further from a tree than you estimate, and also the thick end can whipsaw end over end on the way down. Think safety first, plan your escape, be very cautious near buildings and stay away from wires. Wear goggles. Even stepping on the string when you throw can result in the ball coming back and hitting the thrower.

I just use a lead ball sinker tied to 30lb fishing line then throw it underarm over limbs up to abput 30'. You get the hang of it (sorry) after 3 or 4 tries. As for rope saws, they can be frustrating,... they get stuck too easily even with double sided and two people.

I just use a lead ball sinker tied to 30lb fishing line then throw it underarm over limbs up to abput 30'. You get the hang of it (sorry) after 3 or 4 tries. As for rope saws, they can be frustrating,... they get stuck too easily even with double sided and two people.