If memory serves me correctly ,you need to loosen the bolts that hold the vertical pins in place,drive the pins out that the the motor mounts are attached to....the the rest should be easy ....once the mount is off the tiller then remove the pulley(if needed) nad then the four bolts that hold the engine to the engine mount.....when putting the belts back on you may learn some new s$%#@$% words :o(
Jim

Well, i have found, if something is in the way of some bolts that must come out-why-you'll have to remove that part first, then remove the other part!
I removed an engine from a Troy-bilt tiller several years ago, and had to un-bolt a lot of stuff to get the engine off it. So, pull up a box, sit down, and eye-ball the whole mess, then you can see how to go about it! Really simple when you get into it! you might have to unbolt the reverse disc, and i know you'll have to take off the belts.
One thing for certain: DO NOT UNDO THE BOLT WITH THE BIG SPRING BEHIND THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY!! YOU'LL THINK IT WOULD BE BETTER TO TRY TO FLY TO THE MOON, RATHER THAN PUT THAT PART BACK TOGETHER! This warning is even printed in large type in the manual that comes with the machine! I don't think a gear puller is necessary, but soak the pulleys with a good penetrating oil-not WD-40! you will find there is an allen bolt somewhere that holds them in place.
If the engine slider posts are relatively free, and not rusted, it is possible to remove them and get the engine off that way! Measure how far they stick up out of their receptacles before removing them. Facilitates re-installation later. Then the casting that covers the belts and pulleys, and the engine, will come off as a unit!!
HTH: Rustyj

To replace the belts, which should be a matched set, here's how:
If both belts are off. First put the rear most belt down and around the lower rear pulley,and lean the rest of the belt back out of the way. Then put the second belt up ,over and in front of, both upper pulleys. Work the bottom end of the front belt onto the front bottom pulley, then work the upper end onto the front upper pulley. Then put the loop of the rear belt up and onto the rear upper pulley, and there it is! Then you can install the reverse disc, if so equipped.
Sometimes that disc must be removed when removing the engine. Depends on the model and date of mfgr.
Another handy tip from Rusty Jones, the Mower Man.

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I have an HH60 105103f that is newly rebuilt. Last summer, one of the flywheel magnets became loose an ddestroyed the stator plate. Short of replacing the engine, does anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Bob

If magnets any good they can be Epoxy back in place. Find old small engine repair shop are man he have what need I am doing same now told him my problen he working on old engine that has rod broke from over speeding the owner will not fix because price. you can find what need with some digging he said 5 and six horse had same flywheel if that helps. mind 1979 model engine I have run engine with 1973 flywheel they better because has screws holding them into flywheel. If do deside to go new engine just get overhead valve 6 hp it be much stronger than old no need to go 8 hp just more gas and power don't need I have 2 troy bilt horse tillers the 73 and 79.

thanks for your response - any idea on where to find the stator as it is trashed as well?
Robert