Need help with soil test recommendations

12 years ago

For years I've been amending my beds with compost, alfalfa pellets, sbm, cm, chopped leaves, etc. and last years soil tests showed nice 14% organic matter.

It also said I needed to add N, K & P in one bed and only N & K in another. As I only use organics, how can I best follow the advice of the testing without going the 10-10-10 route.

I had the testing done because while spring growth of trees, shrubs and perennials was lush and beautiful, all would look tired and stressed by late summer. Lawn is also treated only using the above and is great all year ~ no weeds ~ really beautiful. wish I could say the same about the beds.

What should I use to bring up the levels found deficient by the testing Thanks.

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Comments (3)

Kimmsr
12 years ago
What to use depends on what, if anything, might be needed. Many times a soil test report will recommend spreading 2 pounds of 10-10-10 per 1,000 square feet and if you think about it that is not much and is most likely unnecessary and nothing organic is needed either.
Plants, as a rule, will not look as fresh and perky in late summer as they do in the spring, so what you are seeing most likely is simply normal wear and tear.
So, what is the soils pH?
What are the levels of P, K, Ca, and Mg and are they in balance?
14 percent organic matter is getting a bit high, 6 to 8 percent is good.
lincann
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks, Kimmsr ~ here are results from two worst areas

Front bed - small tree, shrubs, perennials, annuals
5 years old - full sun

Soil pH: 7.1
P: 15 ppm
K: 45 ppm
Ca: 1,472 ppm
Mg: 140 ppm
Organic matter: 14.2%
Suggested: 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. 4 times per year,
1/2 lb P in spring and again fall, and 5 lbs K - most in fall and rest thru growing season.

Back bed - small tree, shrubs, perennials, annuals
40 years old - part sun

Soil pH: 7.0
P: 167 ppm
K: 187 ppm
Ca: 2,656 ppm
Mg: 402 ppm
Organic matter 13.9%
Suggested: 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft 4 times year , no P and 2 lbs K - most in fall and rest over growing season.

Don't believe 'end of summer' is the problem here as leaves often turn pale green and growth wanes through summer. Some easy plants have died altogether ~ Shasta daisies and larkspur. Years ago I used to use 10-10-10 liberally as well as other chemical fertilizers and all looked good ~ maybe why today's P levels are so high and skewed.
So, as I remember, calcium binds to iron making it unavailable to the plant and resulting in pale leaves and light veins . With such high calcium levels showing up in the tests, I'm wondering if this is part of the problem. I'm thinking of adding Epsom salts (or other potassium source) to help boost the P levels and bring the calcium to iron ratio into better balance. Does that sound right?
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Kimmsr
12 years ago
The soil pH is good, optimal for most all plants is in the 6.2 to 6.8 range, and that means that the soils level of Calcium is good and in balance with the Magnesium.
While many think chlorosis, yellowing of plant leaves, is the result of an iron deficiency there are numerous causes ranging from nutrient imbalance to mechanical injury of plants.
One or two pounds of any nutrient spread over 1,000 square feet is a fairly minimal amount although 5 pounds might be something worthwhile to consider.

Here is a link that might be useful: causes of chlorosis