21 cords a winter and you want to buy a low end consumer saw like Homelite at Home Crapo??? It makes absolutely no sense. How much is that 21 cords of wood heat saving you on an annual basis? ($1000's I bet)

Low end Poulans and Homelites might be OK for occasional homeowner tasks but 21 cords/yr. does not fit that description.

Echos on the other hand are very good chainsaws. They just don't have that great of power to weight ratios. However I'd feel confident in the CS440 for your application.

If your stuck on Home Crapo for whatever reason then go to the rental center and see if they have any used Makita 6401's for sale. They sell their rental fleet every 2 years and I believe these saws go for about $200 used. They're made by Dolmar and have a great reputation.

I'd also try your local Craigs List if you're on a budget. I'd much rather have a used Stihl, Husky or Dolmar then the $150 Homelite.

Dave's last sentence says it all. You would be throwing away good money on the cheap saw buying a new one every year.Save it and step up to a good one, you will be thankful in the long run.

You'll buy into the hype when that cheap saw won't start on you when you need it most. Out of the saws you mentioned, I get the echo 440, however I don't think you need an 18 inch bar. Given your price range, I'd go over to lowes and check out either the husky 345 or 350 as well. I think these saws in the $325 - $350 range and much better than the homelite/poulan saws. I know your on a budget, but if your relying on wood for heating, ask yourself can you afford for you saw to stop working when you need it most? When it cost more to fix the saw than you paid, thats when your going to re-evaluate your decision. The cheap saws are cheap for a reason. They have more plastic, cheaper clutches, cheaper chain breaks etc. If your handy with engines, then get a el cheapo saw. My father in law gave me a practically brand new mcCullough mac 3200 14 chainsaw. He used it a few times and it wouldn't start. Brought it to the shop, they fixed it and he went to use it again and it wouldn't start. Ended up giving it to me. I replaced the fuel filter, rebuilt the carb, and replaced the fuel lines and it doesn't even have 5 hours use on it. If I took it to a shop to get fixed, it would have cost me at least $70 minimum in labor. Its maybe a $120 saw new. I'm quite handy as I'm restoring a 69 camaro, but be prepared to work on it.

+1 on staying away from the Homelite offerings.

I'd go with the Echo or even one of the Stihl homeowner models (180, 210, 250). You are really cutting twigs with the majority being 8" and under. You'll do fine with a 14" bar. However a longer bar will give you better reach and will be easier on the back for all that cutting. That Dolmar/Makita 6401 is a great deal. They typically go for ~$225 if you can find a used one at the rental dept. The only thing to consider with that one is that it is a bigger and heavier saw. I think a tad too big for all day firewood cutting of things that small. Match the bar to the chainsaw though, it will perform better. Don't stick a 20" bar on a 45cc engine. A good rule of thumb is 3:1, i.e. 45cc could do 16".

Okay, you have definitly persuaded me away from the homelite.

I think I am going to go with the Echo 370.

I was looking online at chains for them, as I would like to have 2. I noticed that a given length chain comes in several different "drive link" sizes... can anyone explain that to me? Is more better?

Davefr, he said 21 face cords, not cords. So I'm guessing he's cutting more like 5-6 cords a year. Your arguement still stands however. No point in throwing away money on a tool that will break and not be worth fixing.

I own an Echo 440 and would recommend it. However, the 18 inch bar will be too much. Go with the 16 inch especially if you're only cutting 6" trees.

If you're really on a budget - go garage sale, estate sale, or craigslist hunting. An older Echo, Stihl, Dolmar, etc is going to be a good investment. Stop at the chainsaw store - sometimes they offer used/trade in equipment that has been serviced. A good deal is possible.

One thing to consider - wood keeps you warm twice. The cheaper you are in your equipment - the warmer you'll be.

cowboyandy,
You generally buy chain based on the number of drive links. A 16" chain for an Echo 16" bar is specified by an exact number of drive links which is usually stamped on the bar or in a chart.

As davefr said. The info you need should be stamped on the bar or in a chart. You'll need 3 parts to figure out the correct saw chain for your chainsaw, Pitch, Gauge and Links. The Oregon Saw Chain FAQ's should answer your questions about what these things mean. The pitch is important because the sprocket that drives the chain is matched to the pitch of your saw chain (like gears). Additionally, your bar will likely have a roller or sprocket tip that will have a pitch that will match the sprocket and chain so that it all rolls smoothly.

i have a homelite 2/v1 super...i need to find out where the vent tube for the fuel tank runs to ....the vent tube is missing.....ut # 105494...ser # .. 782870129........hope someone can help???.....ty

Two suggestions after you get your new saw.

After you've run two or three tanks of fuel through it, I'd take it in to a dealer or small engine shop and have the carb adjusted. Your manual should tell you this but thought I'd mention it. Running a two cycle engine too lean will kill it quick.

I've found I get less stretch on my new chains if I soak them in motor oil before first use. Also do the same on newly sharpened ones. It only takes a few minutes and it seems to help.

Okay, I ended up with a husqvarna 142... 16" bar and 40cc engine. I am concerned with it already after using it last night.

1) when I set it down, there is a puddle of chain oil under it, even only after a short amount of time.

2) the chain doesnt seem to spit oil if I rev it and point the nose towards the ground. There is some splatter, but not much.

3) The chain brake mechanism seems to be REALLY HOT after using it for a few minutes... to the point where the metal is heating up where you can see it (discoloration - purplish color)

Could this be a defective unit?

For the extra few dollars, I think you should buy the Echo CS-440 with a 16 inch bar & chain. My neighbor has an Echo CS-510 (16") and he cuts a few cords with it every winter and swears by it. It's not the same model as the 440, but Echo makes a high-quality chainsaw, not junk.

You shouldn't have a pool of oil and your chain break shouldn't be that hot especially if you only used if for a short period of time.

Take it back to the dealer. Your chain brake should only be hot if the saw was running faster then normal idle with the brake on.

A little residual oil dribble is normal after the saw is run.

Did the dealer set it up and check it out for you prior to the purchase?

The Husky 142 is the same as a Poulan, I'd take it back and get a CS440. Echo's are built better than homeowner Husky and Stihl saws, and way better than the new Macs, Poulans Homelites etc. No matter which saw you end up with if it runs at all funny (bogs easy, hard to start, stumble when throttled up) get the carb adjusted. Lots of them come to lean thanks to EPA regs, and ethonal gas just makes it worse. Steve

"A little residual oil dribble is normal after the saw is run.

Did the dealer set it up and check it out for you prior to the purchase? "

Well, this wasnt a little dribble, it was a puddle. And it started right away, after I had run it for about 2 min and set it down and there was a substantial amount of oil under it.

I wanted the echo cs-440, but cant seem to find anyone around here that carries it.

Then take it back. There should definately not be a puddle of oil. I wonder if the bar was even mounted correctly. That might explain the oil puddle and hot chain brake.

Have the dealer double check everything.

UPDATE:

After 3 weeks without my saw, I finally got it back from sears. The tech's notes said

"oil leak normal - thats how the bar is lubricated"

----so it is normal for ALL chainsaws to leave a huge puddle on the ground???? WTF.

"chain brake functional - operator should not operate chainsaw with brake on"

------wtf, do they think I am a complete moron??? the freakin outer case was too hot to even touch. I thought the plastic was going to melt!

"tested unit, ran ok"

-------the last time I used it before bringing it in, it kept stalling on me. I would cut, then as soon as I let off the throttle it would stall. The chain wasn't too tight, and the idle was where it should be (turned it up until the chain moved at idle, then backed off till it stopped spinning).

So, I told the sales guy that I wanted to return it. He talked me into exchanging it so I did, but I told him in no uncertain terms that if I had the same problems, it was coming back.

Sorry to break the news to you but that's the level of service you get from the mass merchants.

There are benefits in buying equipment like this from a dedicated dealer.

In some ways Andy in this deal you are a moron. Everyone on here pretty much told you that you would not be happy with a saw like that. I'm not laughing at you, just scratching my head why you thought it would be different. I hope you get things working smoothly so you can get heat to your family through the winter. A sincere good luck.

From a group called the Boomers:

"The Art of Living"

Once in awhile I'll see somebody
About to make the same mistakes as me
So I'll try to do something good and save them a little grief

I'll say, "hey you, get away from that thing
It's about as hot as he**!"
They'll smile and thank me very much and then
Go and touch it for themselves

This is the art of living, this is the art of taking and giving

Don't tell me what to do I'll muddle my way through
Don't make any excuses for me
I'll take what's coming my way and be what I will be
It's not that I don't appreciate the thought for heaven's sake
But I won't lie in any bed that I cannot make

This is the art of living, this is the art of taking and giving

Now don't go drawing any lines on the ground
Somebody always comes along who won't walk around
Some are going to lose yeah and some are going to win
But everybody gets caught in

The art of living

Maisman, I understand where you are coming from... but maybe something needs to be clarified.

I do NOT plan to cut down massive trees with this saw. My BIL will be using his STIHL to fell them, I will be limbing with mine. If I did not specify this before, then my mistake. The only trees I plan to fell are maybe 6-8" trees.

That said, I do NOT think it is unrealistic to expect a $250 chainsaw to not leak bar oil everywhere when it is not running (if I turn it off and set it down, ALL of the oil will leak out overnight). It is not unrealistic to expect it to stay running.

Now, I have my replacment and used it on a big old cherry last night. No leaking bar oil, stayed running, didn't get so hot that I couldnt touch it.

Sounds like Sears just couldn't admit that it was a bad saw.

UPDATE:

I have used the replacment saw several times now, and am very happy with it. It does NOT leak oil everywhere when not running, and has ran flawlessly so far.