OK!

PH:
7.2 is is too high as you know it.
To reduce it you can add lots of compost and organic mater, peat moss. Or add solphur, to bring it down to about 6.7
Most garden vegatables will tolerate a ph range of 5.7 to 6.9. I would say a ph=6.5 is a good number.

With nutrients, I would use somee all purpos 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 or 15-15-15., little bit at a time, say every 2-3 weeks.

Right away, you may try a water soluable fertilizer , like miracle grow.

N (nitrogen in NPK) is a temperary thing. that is, you have to supply it gradually and avoid its excess. But P(posphoru) and k(potasium) stick around in the soil for a while). What is more, excess Nitrogen will either burn your plants and/or can produce nice foliage but no flowers or fruits.

Your lab report shaoul have recommended how much of the NPK you should apply to your soil. But just take it easy and be patient and do it gradually.
That is how I would have done it if I were in your situation.

I don't understand why a laboratory would test soil and not give the client a recommendation as to how to fix the soil. Was this test done by a university?

Your pH is not necessarily too high. Mine is 8.5 and I don't have any trouble growing things. I can't grow blueberries but as long as I know that, I'm good.

My idea of a long term approach to excellent soil health is to use a layer of compost every fall, organic fertilizer several times a year, water deeply when you water, and never till the soil. And, frankly, I don't care what your soil chemistry test says. Compost and organic fertilizer provide a biological remedy that will fix the chemistry without you having to do anything else. Sometimes an adjustment to the pH is needed to help get the soil biology more healthy, but as I said, I'm doing fine with a pH of 8.5.

Now you need to know what the level of humus is in that soil and these simple soil tests can help,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

and there should be some recommendations from the soil test lab about what to do to correct the deficiencies, ie. what kind and how much lime needs to be added to bring those levels up to optimal, and lime should always be added 6 months or so before planting.