Get a Freud Saw Blade now or wish you had later.

Interesting. I was using a Freud 50 tooth, model LU84R011 and was getting way too much tearout. I figured it was because of 50 tooth instead of 80 tooth, but I don't think that's the reason. Sorry, I'm not sold on Freud in spite of their reputation.

What you want for a mitre saw is a blade with 0 or negative hook with a full thickness of plate so that the blade does not deflect.
Amana, Systimatic, Skarpaz, Freud, Forrest all make suitable saws
A thin kerf is not suitable for this application.
A well made 60 tooth will work, pay attention to hook angles and back your stock up with waste to minimize blowouts.

As for the 4 tooth and a raker style combination blade , it does not belong on anything but a tablesaw. It has too much hook for a swingsaw and is generally not recommended, no wonder you had blowout!
I prefer a zero hook angle for the swingsaws so that they don't overfeed ( compound mitre, radial arm) on a chopsaw you can use a bit of positive hook to minimize burning.
Take a look at the Freud LU85 series.

Hippy, I might have to apologize to you after reading Bamboo's comments about the Freud LU85 series. I checked the comments on Amazon about the LU85 and they are indeed very positive. But so are the comments there about the Forrest Chopmaster. Since the Freud and Forrest are about the same price on Amazon, which would either one of you buy?

Freud LU85R010 10" 80-Tooth. Top Bevel Grind, 10° hook, .116" kerf (width of the blades cut, in case you did not know.), .098" plate.

Would be my choice.

You can check the link below for more information on saw blades in general.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Wood Shop (saw blades)

Thanks for the link. That article is very informative, and helped me decide to go with the Freud blade. Thanks Hippy and Bamboo for the in-depth facts you gave about the blades.

Hi folks,

I'm new to this forum. I have been trying to miter baseboard to complete a Winter project finishing of my basement. I'm using that pre-finished, non-wood crown and baseboard trim because it is water resistant.

I just purchased the 10" Ridgid compound miter w/laser. it was set up perfect out of the box and it does a great job cutting real wood, just not this other stuff.

So I'm guessing the 40-tooth OEM blade that came with it may not be sutable for this type of material. Any one know about cutting this type of moulding and if a different type of blade would make the difference needed to get a decent miter.

I don't try to make miter cuts for baseboard and certainly not for crown. You cannot rely upon walls and ceilings being 90 degrees, plumb, level or straight.

I just lay my trim flat on my SCMS and cut the normal 45. Then I use a coping saw to back-cut the 45 to get a perfect fit nearly every time.

Thanks, castoff,

I'm going to keep trying different cuts to see what happens, but thus far I can't even get a decent, perpendicular 45 degree cut on baseboard. Crown will come later. The saw fence and table a perfectly square at 90 degrees to the blade. If it isn't the blade, then I must be doing something wrong.

I'll keep trying and let you know if any thing else works. I though laying the piece flat would work best too, but some times it tears the finish when face down. I'm going to try a backer piece of wood too which was suggeted in the Woodwork Forum.

The 40t oem blade would be fine if you were building a pressure treated deck.

Wiley, when using a chop or miter saw, blade needs to enter finish side first then exit non finished side. Try turning finish side up and away from fence. REJ2.

Well, I went to the other extreme on a different blade. Found a 200-tooth $10 blade, tried it out on this plastic, prefinished moulding only to find that it is actually melting the material. Something in between as far as number of teeth, and of better quality, may be the ticket. I'll check around at different stores later in the week.

Still at it a Olivia , op asks for a blade advice and your schilling a complete saw lmao