The basic soil test will give you the answers you need when combined with these simple soil tests,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

The more expensive one means you need a plant growing in the bed to be tested.

Normally I would advise a person to get the $20 test and find out about the secondary and minor nutrients on a one time basis. However, I am familiar with where you live (assuming it's Milwaukee ;) and your pH is going to be near neutral to very slightly alkaline. Calcium and magnesium will be ample. Phosphorus will be high and potassium will be adequate.

If you live along the lake shore or have very sandy soil then ignore the above.

For your maters you aren't likely going to need to add anything to your soil other than some organic matter and a source of nitrogen will be recommended on the soil test, but that's their default advice (they don't test for N unless you pay extra for them to, but it's pointless). It's usually good advice to add N, but normally nothing else is needed for most of SE Wisconsin.

BTW, stay away from any sources of phosphorus. A new state law now bans fertilizers containing phosphorus in the entire state due to most soils already having pollution levels of it.

BTW, I don't usually view this forum so won't likely see your response if any (I responded to your post on the Veg forum).

Since compost, and many other forms of organic matter contain Phosphorus staying away from Phosphorus sources will be nigh onto immpossible, unless one does not add the one essential things all soils need and that is organic matter.
While Michigan (luddites in the legislature) does not yet ban the sale of fertilizers containing Phosphorus many counties do, unless you have a soil test that shows you need that nutrient.

My opinion would be to spend the little extra this one time, mainly to rule out any problems. Make sure you give them info on what you wish to be growing and let them know if you want organic solutions if there is a problem.

Good gardening, Mary

I predict your organic matter will be low and you will need to add nitrogen fertilizer...whether you spend more money or not.

Since most soils do lack sufficient organic matter and since it is common for many test labs to recommend adding 2 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet that is a safe prediction. It is not a reason to not get a soil test, however.