I'd be suprised if it was really "cooked". When you put mulch in a big pile it gets extremely hot on it's own. It's common for mulch to catch fire just sitting in the pile. The "cooking" that is being advertised really means they let it sit in a pile for a year or two, and turned the pile regularly. This kills the weeds.

I don't know any suppliers up there, but there have to be many. Just ask how long it's been left to compost.

Cow manure is also weed free by the way.

This is a dumb question... Does composting and cow manure work as mulch?

Thanks

Check this out. http://www.dec.ny.gov/chemical/8798.html

They have a list of composting outfits that are approved by the state of New York. One of them is right in New Albany.

fagopher, since mulch is defined as a 'protective covering' applied to the surface of the soil, pretty much anything that fits that description can be classified as a mulch. And that includes compost or cow manure.

Mulches are generally broken down into two categories: organic mulches - like compost, grass clippings, leaves, bark, wood chips, etc.; and inorganic mulches - like lava rock, gravel, shredded tires or other recycled products. Both will act as protection, shielding the soil against erosion, temperature swings, retaining soil moisture and offering weed suppression but organic mulches have the bonus of breaking down into components that will benefit the soil, stimulate soil organisms and contribute nutrients.

And since many gardeners tend to avoid any tilling after the initial preparation of their planting beds, mulching with compost or composted manures or other organic mulches is how they add organic matter to their soils on a ongoing basis.

Thanks for the detailed explanation!!

So.. If I use compost as mulch wouldn't it promote growing of new weeds (since composting is adding food , it would be a great place for weed to grow..)?

blackberryhill1... Sorry to steal your posting...

Thanks

"And since many gardeners tend to avoid any tilling after the initial preparation of their planting beds, mulching with compost or composted manures or other organic mulches is how they add organic matter to their soils on a ongoing basis."

This is an important thing for new mulchers to understand. Mulch isn't just used as a weed barrier. It's how many of us continually nourish our gardens.

fagopher, plants that sprout in compost are few and easy to pull. If you see a weed, toss more mulch on top of it.

Mulches should 1) aid in suppressing unwanted plant growth, 2) aid in soil moisture retention, 3, aid in regulating soil temperature, and 4) add organic matter to the soil. So no material that will not do any of these should not be used. If "weeds" will not grow in your mulch it probably is not something you would want on your soil because that would be dead material, unable to support life.
The "weed" barrier fabrics, according to researchers at Texas A & M, appear to keep nutrients from getting into the soil when applied over the fabric.

"If "weeds" will not grow in your mulch it probably is not something you would want on your soil" is misleading. Mulches, even compost mulches, are used precisely to keep your garden weed-free. Fertile materials can be used as weed-free mulches---if a proper depth is achieved.

You can use compost as an effective, weed-suppressing, mulch if the depth is adequate. I've used compost for mulching and weeds do not spring all over in the fertile compost---as you would expect. If I were to spread a thin layer, the seed might take root in the soil below and thrive from the compost addition. Correct depth of your mulching material is key and it varies considering the mulch you use. What I've found is that weeds in a deep compost mulch are few, weak, and pull like they're in pudding.

Mulches should 1) aid in suppressing unwanted plant growth, 2) aid in soil moisture retention, 3, aid in regulating soil temperature, and 4) add organic matter to the soil. (emphasis added)

Let's trade out that "should" for "can". It's pretty hard for an inorganic mulch to add organic matter to the soil, but there are locations and situations where inorganic mulches are totally appropriate and often far more desirable than an organic mulch. Not everyone is gardening in the midwest or with edibles or other plants that appreciate quantities of organic matter. So shy away from the dogma and the personal opinions stated as fact and use whatever type of mulch is appropriate for your specific planting situation or that you prefer. Remember the key to any mulch is that it is a protective covering.

Weed seeds will often germinate in a mulch of compost or composted manure or other fine textured mulches - they ARE a pretty desirable growing medium. But as annpat says, they are relatively easy to remove. Larger textured mulches - wood chips, coarse bark nuggets, pine straw - tend to be better at discouraging weeds as it is difficult for the seeds to root down into the mulch or if already present in the soil, to grow up through to reach the light.

And do avoid using weed fabric or woven weed barrier. It is just a PITA to work with, isn't all that effective in controlling persistent weeds, especially perennial ones, and does inhibit the exchange of nutrients available from an organic mulch. In my work as a landscape designer and professional gardener, I limit my recommendation for using weed fabric only to its use as the initial layer when setting paving materials. Period.