You are smart for getting that soil tested.. What exactly is the pH? Now you mentioned you want to plant trees and shrubs, you planing a vegetable garden as well or? The landscaper told you there's no sense digging the soil and to just later topsoil,etc on top and plant in that, I cannot agree with he more! Now is grass growing in your lawn or what? When people think of rocks, they always try to dig them out and waste time, what's so bad about a few rocks.. Now in your case it sounds like the materials for building th house was mixed in, that's a whole different story.. If I was you I would see what your soil test recommends first.. But in general, i would make raised beds out of soil/compost and just plant in that.. You were worried about once the plants roots hits your native rocky ground it will shock them, i think it will be ok, plants are made to survive... And it depends on how much soil you plan on getting in.. But getting soil delivered is expensive and the way the landscaper is telling you to do your whole entire yard, you are out a least a couple hundred.. If there is grass growing in your yard it couldn't be to bad, I wouldn't go spending thousands trying to cover your whole yard.. If I was you I would just make raised beds where you plan on planting and look at you soil test and go from there.. Also, look for free compost, my city gives away leaf hummus from the leaves the collect and fall and i get truck load of that, but you have to shovel it yourself! Let us now your soil test results.. Also let us know before you go shelling out hundreds to cover your whole lawn with soil!

Joe

Try these people;

USUAL has moved to the Skaggs Laboratory at 1541 N on 800 E in North Logan:

Please mail samples to:

USUAL
9400 Old Main Hill
Logan UT 84322

Feel free to drop samples off in person at:

1541 N 800 E in North Logan.

If you're planting native/adapted trees/shrubs don't amend too much...it promotes roots seeking to stay in the more highly amended area rather than spreading their roots. This can cause issues when the tree gets older and winds kick up...major issues if they're big enough to topple on your house or car.

I agree, a 6-8 layer on top is not all that useful for trees. I have a limestone based, clay soil. For our trees, we dig a square hole the same depth of the pot, rough up the sides the hole to keep them from being too smooth, plant the tree and put on a good layer of coarse woodchips as a mulch. The soil builds over time.

For other perennials, the 6-8 inches on top may work fine but depending on the size of the area, that could be quite expensive. We dig our amendments in the soil, it is worth it but it is a slow process and we pick out the larger rocks and boulders. Planting often involves a pick for removing rocks. Who needs to join a gym? I would also pay attention to whether or not you have hard water in case you want to grow anything that likes acidic conditions so you can make an informed decision when deciding what plants are worth the trouble to you. Good luck in your new location.

Soil in Utah does tend to be alkaline because of the low rainfall you have.
Depending on your soil digging a $100.00 hole may not work because amending a small area in clay soils can create a bathtub where water finds less resistance to movement and collects in the hole.
When looking for "topsoil" ask what it is, look at it to see what it is and do not accept garbage which is often sold as "topsoil". What I would want is a soil mix that approximates loam, 45 percent sand, 25 percent clay, 25 percent silt, and 5 percent organic matter. Since I can buy a soil mix like that for the same price ($22.00 per cubic yard) as a soil mix containing the dredgings from the bottom of a lake mixed with sand and some lime I would opt for the first one.

I think you should listen to Tish since he is in by far the closest conditions to yours of anyone regularly on this forum, and this year is not his first rodeo.

Thanks for all your responses and suggestions. I am anxious to see what the test results show.
Albert, thanks for the correct address. I was going to head over to campus so that will save me a trip.
We had a lovely rainstorm this morning and I don't see any puddling so it looks like we have decent drainage up here at least. That's encouraging.
As for the rest, I think we will stick with native/adaptable trees for sure and focus on that grouping of shrubs. I'm willing to amend for perennials and smaller shrubs where I want something a little more special. I know we'll put down top soil IF we decide to install a bluegrass type of lawn. So it was nice to read what to look for in a good topsoil.

Thanks, pnbrown.

OP, another thing to inquire about in your area is to see if caliche is an issue. If you like geology, it is interesting to see the different layers in the soil. It is an indication of the limitations of where the rain penetrates and minerals leach to about that point (so the theory goes). But, it is also a bear to dig through, if you can and it will affect drainage, so something to consider if you plan to plant expensive trees.

If your rocks are limestone, pay attention to them. It is thought they were formed by ancient seas and we can sometimes find fossils of ancient sea life in them. The fossils are small but definitely neat.

I strongly recommend contacting your extension service, they've been dealing with this stuff in your area for decades; in addition, CSU Extension in Ft. Collins, CO deals with very similar circumstances. Of course, check out their web sites too. Best of luck from a CSU horticulture alumni.

Here is a link that might be useful: Utah State U Extension

I was taught dig a $100 hole for a $10 plant.

That practice flew out the window more than a decade ago.....very much old school :-) Tests have established that trees and shrubs planted into unamended indigenous soils actually establish faster and fair much better in the long run than do those planted into heavily amended planting holes.

There are exceptions. Sometimes amending is completely warranted but if so, it is far better to do so over the largest possible area. Your landscape designer was dead-on about that. Actually, importing soil to create planting beds in areas of poor soil quality is very common in the industry and a widely accepted practice.

You still want to select plants that will do well in yoour climate and location and that would certainly focus on things that do not require acidic soils. YOur local extension service or better garden center will have suggestions for what will work but I'd bet your designer is also very knowledgable in that regard.

The concept of digging a $100.00 hole for a $10,00 tree went out over 25 years ago depending on your soil. If your soil is clay amending it with a lot of organic matter can change the structure so water can flow into that area easily but cannot get out, creating a bathtub that can drown the plant trying to grow there. If your soil is sand amending the planting hole with copious quantities of organic matter will help hold moisture in the planting hole so what is planted there can survive, get the moisture it needs as well as the nutrients it needs.

In sandy soil I have learned that fruit trees need a lot of added nutrition, so the "hundred dollar hole" wouldn't hurt, for sure, though I wouldn't want to spend that much either.