The same chemical (spinosad) is available in smaller quantities as Ferti-lome Borer spray, which I was able to buy locally.

The advantage of spinosad is that is doesn't kill thrips predators (pirate bugs and predatory mites) as the chemical alternatives do. However, it is harmful to bees and shouldn't be sprayed into open blooms.

Thrips have developed resistance to spinosad in areas where it is widely used. You could use it a few times during the spring flush when thrips are usually at their worst and then trust to the buildup of predators. If you want to spray continuously (which I wouldn't do), you might alternate with a synthetic pyrethroid such as cyfluthrin to prevent resistance. However, this will kill the predators. I wouldn't use Merit (imidacloprid) as it is known to encourage spider mites.

Thrips are never a huge problem in my garden, so I can't tell you what would work in your situation. Also I don't know whether there is a big chance of resistance developing if you are just spraying the budding shoots in a small garden.

Jeff, I am going to try the blue plastic cup method suggested by someone here. Take a blue cup, smear STP oil treatment inside and stick it on a stake. I guess you stick it on the stake upside down or it would fill up with water. Thrips are drawn to it and get stuck.

Since thrips pupate in the ground, I wonder if BT ( bacillus thuringiensis) would work on them. It kills caterpillars and mosquito larvae, so it seems to me it might work as a soil drench. I guess they sell it in some dry lawn products too. Has anyone heard of it tried on thrips? BT is non-toxic to people and I guess most animals I think. I do have some Conserve, don't have a really bad thrip problem, but enough to bug me - and I am not sure the Conserve has done much good. It's hard to say because it could have been worse without it.
Linda