What is the piece of equipment? Do you have a model # and a link to a parts diagram? Since there is a clutch involved, do you think there are threads involved? Maybe a spanner wrench fits the holes in the center retainer (and loosen opposite to running dir)?

Post a closer/clear pic of center to show they are holes.

The engine is a WISCONSIN WI-185 It was on a wacker plate tamper PVG 160-B .jim

Is this better

The clutch hub holds the parts on.
Remove the spark plug.
Rotate the crank shaft to BTC (bottom).
Insert some 1/4" nylon rope (5 to 10" or so) into the plug hole.
Rotate the crank until the rope compresses and locks the engine up.
Use a pipe wrench if possible placed on the outside edge of the hub to turn the hub off of the shaft.
If you can not get a pipe wrench on the hub. Use a round dull blunt end punch placed in one of the holes at an angle and strike it with a hammer.

Note. May help to turn the shaft up and apply a small amount of AeroKroil or other penetrating oil to the hub and let it soak over night.

Forgot to mention.

The two gray things inside of the hub are the clutch pads and return springs,

You do not want to damage those if at all possible.

Thanks hippy and loger .I soaked with rust buster over night.There are no set screws any where I can see.I tried hitting with blunt drift pin no go . There are two ears that seem to be attached to the hub I don't know how it would turn with them. One is at 11 oclock other at 5.Thanks for your time. jim

Jim
The actual tool that is used to remove the clutch hub looks like the one in the photo. I have not saw one in many years and do not know if you can even get one now days.

You may be able to make one from a scrap socket or other metal.

A hydraulic shop have Gland nut wrench.
Link show you one.

Here is a link that might be useful: Adjustable spanner

1. Is that a snap ringâÂÂs ends just below the 11 o-clock pen?
2. The blows shock should break it.
3. Some small direct heat should help.
4. Some üâ thick strap/band iron with drilled tapped tempered bolts should make you a good spanner wrench. A 4â grinderâÂÂs wrench might fit or drill holed to fit. But that tight might be too much for the wrench unless you drill the 2 holes larger for larger pen on a wrench.
5. Depending on your goal a 4â grinder should cut it enough to break w/o damage to the shaft or clutch.

I thought that is a snap ring but I cant get anything under it,or move it. It makes sense because something seems to beholding it. Jim

Try driving the hub toward the on or opposite direction. If you get any movement, see if your punch will rotate the appearing snap ring.

What is your goal vs just using a grinder to cut the Monster?

I want to save the pulleys and try to use them on another engine for the tamper. Jim

Did you manage to get the clutch off. I have a similar problem with a wacker pvp75a. Looks like there is a pin through one of the four holes.

Stopping the hub being rotated.

Is this what you are referring to as a snap ring.

Thanks for your

The aim.is to replace the shoes in this

Wow what a bunch of bad information you have been given. The clutch is slip fit with a key mating in the shaft of the engine. A bolt in the engine shaft end holds it all on. They rust onto the shaft, because a product like copper kote was never used on initial install. If you put a puller on the rear of hub as you have done it just bends. There is usually not enough room to drop a bearing seperator on to get force closer to shaft. So if you cant tape in closer to engine with a tube that fits over that 3/4 inch engine shaft , hoping to loosen it from the shaft---- then what I have done in past if engine is toast is to hack saw the engine shaft off, and then set up on jig and press out with hydraulic press.