I should probably add that I don't really intend/need for this to be decorative - the climbing plants should cover it completely.

That's kind of off-topic in this forum.

I will give you my suggestion anyway:

Metal may be a lot of work and over doing it for a climbing rose.

Wood trellis should be much easier. Construction glue (Liquid Nail) will adhere to stucco very well. A few wood blocks glue to the wall will hold the trellis securely.

Here is one I made

dcarch
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Thanks for the tip - I have a full woodshop and have built over 100 linear feet of trellis, lattice and trellis/lattice combos in frames and as part of pergolas. All stain grade redwood. I had enough of wood trellis' for now.

As I said, this trellis will have a horizontal span of 6' or so w/o intermediate supports. This would require 2x4's for the horizontal "frame" and probably 4x4's for the verticals. I can easily do this but my goal is for a "light" or invisible trellis since it's against the house and window, house,climbing rose and a heavy trellis would just be too much. IMO your method of using const adhesive is a little unorthodox and would not work on stucco.

After thinking about this I suspect wrought iron fence stock would be ideal and I may be able to get my hands on some.

Also, this forum is garden structures - is there a trellis forum? I did look but did not find one.

My metal rose structures are made of rebar or rolled steel. It's inexpensive, and it rusts so it tends to fade away within the rose. My winter project (I hope) will be to learn to weld so I can do more than tripods and arches.

Ask over at the Rose Forum. Many of the members over there have trellises, and they're happy to share their
photos and/or their experience.

Your wrought iron idea sounds cool.

Connie

alexh,
The metal trellis assembly you're proposing is a common device and could be fabricated easily, with basic metal shop tools. Using iron of course, does raise a concern with rust staining - especially if in direct contact with your stucco facade.

A simple square grid pattern, forming a border around the kitchen window, would be attractive - in a modernist way. Perhaps after you cut and weld 1" square iron stock in the desired pattern, stand-offs of a dissimilar material can be attached to the back side of the trellis. I have cut sections of pipe, in appropriate lengths, as standoffs with past projects.

Stainless or galvanized steel lag bolts can then be inserted into holes drilled through the trellis stock and into each pipe section - long enough for screwing into the framing behind the stucco substrate. Obviously, use masonry anchors if it's a CMU block wall. Oxidation from copper or brass pipe may stain the stucco - galvanized pipe may work. Be sure to seal the holes with mastic prior to inserting the lag bolts.

I would simply let the steel trellis develop a coat of rust - maintenance free. You could choose to use galvanized steel - but then you would need to treat the joints after grinding and welding.

This recently completed New England coastal summer house project, uses Western red cedar for the trellis, but illustrates the effect of a simple grid. The panels are removable by lag bolts for maintenance and the pattern repeats as a theme around the home - framing windows in a few applications. Eventually, the owner's climbing plants (clematis on the 2nd pic) will cover some of the screens (I know, I know - maintenance issues ;).

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Home Depot has 1/2" x 10' conduit for about 1.50 a piece. Not a typo.

Dan

"---IMO your method of using const adhesive is a little unorthodox and would not work on stucco. ---"

Just checked outside. All the glue-on woodblocks to my stucco walls and stone walls are solid, after about 6 years.

dcarch

If it were me, I'd either weld it up out of plain steel and let it develop a nice rust coating, or, if I wanted it rust-free, I would make it from either stainless or aluminum and bolt it together.

Whatever you do, DON'T WELD GALVANIZED STEEL: it gives off zinc fumes and that can make you very sick.

I forgot to include the link giving details on the hazards of welding galvanized steel...

Here is a link that might be useful: Welding galvanized

kudzu,
That is why I implied grinding the galvanized steel at each weld joint . . .

"You could choose to use galvanized steel - but then you would need to treat the joints after grinding and welding."

As an alternate to letting it rust, sending bare steel fabrications out for hot-dipped galvanizing, is certainly a costly process just for a simple rose trellis. But I do this regularly for ocean-front metal railing assemblies, prior to coating with 2-part epoxy finishes.

Steel pipe railing was popular back in the 70's to mid-80s - the last time I spec'd pre-galv. steel to be welded. As far as I know, the welder from that project (below) is still alive + kicking - years later . . . although, I did notice a facial twitch last time we spoke ;-)

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archdiver,

How about you and I have a little fun? You mind if I am picky? :-)

That railing is not Code compliant for today, True?

I was told that all opennings cannot be wider than 4", and also no horizontal members are allowed.

How did you handle gutters?

A very very very nice elegant and sensible design of a house, I have to say!

dcarch

You're correct about the "current" no-horizontal baluster, 4" rule for railings, which I believe is almost universal with the IRC now. The intent is to not have a ladder effect to make it easier for children to climb and tumble to their deaths on the cliffs below.

However, back when I designed the above house, the Code was more lenient with 6" spaces - plus the City had a very flexible guard dog ;).

I'm not a big fan of gutters - but there are times when they are necessary. You'll see none on the other house above that with the cliche' lattice pattern (owner's request w/ a winter home in Naples FL . . . needs no further explanation). I did run PVC downspouts inside the hollow FGL columns to handle scupper drainage from the 2nd fl balconies.

The section shown on the home above however, is actually an addition to a single level Royal Barry Wills house from the 50s - who you may know was a Boston architect who rehashed examples from the American colonial period. The project was a total make-over, but the owners wanted to retain the cedar plank V-gutters. You may make out my version on the lower flanking shed-roof wings.

Thanks for the complement dc - it is a very humble house design - compared to a few of the other 10,000+ sf trophy estates . . . like this one:

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Sorry alexh - I think your thread has been hijacked.

Yes, sorry alexh. :-)

This is a very quiet forum. I hope you don't mind a little off-topic exchange here.

Back on topic:

Whether you are making a trellis, or a greenhouse, it is important to consider aesthetics. It adds value to your efforts and investment.

dcarch

archdiver-
I suspected from your comment about grinding that you were aware of the issues with welding galvanized, but I wasn't sure that the OP understood the full implications. I thought it was better for me to be explicit so the OP would be safe.

Restoration Hardware has some beautiful, classic metal arched trellises in "weathered zinc" or a "rust" finish. They also provide 21"h x 5"wide double footed metal stakes. I was thinking of using them on my stucco house. Do you think the stakes would be enough to hold a 65" or 78" high metal trellis without having to destroy the stucco? I was also concerned if the metal would get too hot and burn the roses. I am in Westchester, NY.