How much are you into this saw for? It may not be worth chasing the problem anymore but who knows, not much info to go on.

When the chain stops, does the the engine still throttle up and down relatively smoothly (nearly the same as it does when the chain is allowed to run freely)?

It sounds like the repair shop did not do what was needed. However, there is still the potential for operator error :). I'd make sure you know how to use the saw.

does the saw have a chain brake??? I don't understand replacing a clutch without replacing the drum and sproket? I've always gotten a package deal drum with new sproket welded on needle bearings and clutch halfs and spring.

It the saw don't rev up enough the lack of centrificial force will unseat the clutch and let it free wheel. the clutch works off centrificial force. Once it starts spinning if overtakes spring pressure holding the two clutch halfs togather, they expand out and grab the outer drum which the sprocket is welded to which the chain teeth is connected to when the chain has proper tension.

Usually it's the needle bearings that go or the sprocket get's notches worn in it for the chain to hang up on that causes the clutch to smoke. If I wear guessing I would suspect the needle bearings. there could also be notch wear on the bar or the chain roller at the end is locking up dragging the chain down enough to stop the chain thus putting all the friction on the clutch.

dear rcmoser,

thank you for your reply and your constructive input.

yes, it does have a qworking chain brake. not sure why the drum was not replaced with the sprockets, i cna only think t hat they thought it was in good working order. the reason of rht eclutch being replaced was that a atab that holds one of the halves of the clutch had broken. they also determined that the chain sprocket was worn and possibly contributing to the problem. i may have needed both items but this combo did not solve the problem.

when i got the 55 i thoroughly cleaned it going so far as to take off all of the body parts and made sure all parts were as clean as possible. i also cleaned the bar and chain and made sure that the sprocket spun freely using the air from my compressor. however, i will re-check that as well as inspect the needle berings. i would think that if the needle bearings were bad that they would have been replaced when teh chain sprocket and clutch were replaced. i will verify that.

something is causing the drum to slip, i was just wondering if the inner surface that the clutch pieces contact to make it spin may be too smooth to properly catch the clutch.

agian than you for your input. it gives me some ideas to pursue.

went back to the local lawn and garden shop today. had them check needle bearing and it needed to be replaced. put it back together while there, took it outside and tried cutting a 12" log. still had the same problem. then i had them replace the drum thinking that maybe the 'old' drum had lost it's ability to hold the clutch. thought for sure this would solve the problem so i took it back home, put it together with the same result. with the new clutch inside the 'old' drum, the new clutch showed signs of overheating after running for not more than 30 seconds from the night before.

while there, one of the guys inspected the chain as well as the bar and could not see any visible issue with either part. so, i am back to trying to solve the same problem, any other ideas or suggestions to chase down?

How much pressure are applying when cutting? With a good sharp chain it doesn't take much, just a little, keep the RPM's up especially on A Husky 55 which doesn't a lot of torque. IF you dog in and lean on it the chain will stop and the clutch will burn. With a dull chain you can lean on it a lot. Steve

good moring steve,

thanks for your reply.

i have no way to measure the amount of pressure i am applying other than to say it would be the equivalent amount i use when i run my stihl 250 and 260. even when using some old poulans i never noticed the problem i have experienced with the 55. after trying the 55 once again last night i went back to using the 260 and when i put the 260's .325" chain in the same spot started by the 3/8" chain on the 55 it seemed to almost bind when it entered the same slot. i do know that a dull chain will cause the blade to drift when cutting but i haven't even gotten far enough into the wood to see that. not sure if that means anything but i did notice it. i will try this experiment again and see if i get the same results. you may be right, the 55 does not seem to have as much torque as the 250 or 260, even the 2300 poulan.

as far as the sharpness of the chain is concerned, the guy that looked at the chain did not mention that the chain needed to be sharpened so i took that to mean it wasn't needed. i will re-inspect the chain and most likely sharpen it again.

Keep in mind the sharper the chain the less pressure you need to apply, but it should cut good with just a little pressure. I run a portable sawmill and am amazed at how dull some people will run a chain, then you can really lean on it without slowing the engine down. I guess I was thinking you might be use to running a duller chain and applying the same pressure with a sharp one causing the saw to bog. I have a Rancher 55 that was totally gutless with a 3/8 chain (bogged easy) then switched to a 325 setup and it was like a new saw. It cut way faster with the 325 chain, not even close. Both setups were square corner chiesel chain. And you might have mechanically problems, I was just adding another angle. Steve

Did you or the saw shop ever check the max RPMs this thing is running at? Could be running too slow to fully engage the clutch? I'm just guessing, but this is the reason they sold it in the first place...