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Vegetable Garden Soil Analysis Test Options?

17 years ago

This is a question for all you hard core soil GardenWebbers.

I'm having a soil test done for a 2300 square foot public vegetable garden. I'd like to know if there is anything else I should test for other than the regular analysis.

I'll be amending with certified organic ingredients such as feather meal, soft rock phosphate, and glacial rock dust for examples.

Any and all input would be appreciated - if you suggest something, please tell me why you feel it would be important. I've included a list of what the Soil and Plant Testing Lab offer:

Soil fertility analysis tests and fees

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Comments (3)

  • 17 years ago


    If I were you , I would just have the soil tested for the regular soil fertility (first category)
    To me , the rest of it is a lot of gible goble and too technical for general gardening. Maybe, some of those tests could be beneficial,say, if you were planning to grow just apple trees or soy bean, etc comercially.
    Requirements for garden vegetables cannot be too specific, as its range is broad and purpose is not commercial.

  • 17 years ago

    Along with the "regular" soil test, which will give you adequate information, you will want to know how much organic matter is in your soil and some other things that the lab does not test for and can be found with these simple soil tests,
    1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

    2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

    3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

    4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

    5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

  • 17 years ago

    I agree with cyrus. If this is an established garden plot the standard soil test should answer your questions. If it's a new area that you're converting then you might need to sample and test for other factors. Even then I'd try to get an opinion from the county agent or a knowledgable person who's seen the plot.