Not really familiar with that machine but since it has a throttle cable I would assume that it has a bracket that locks the cable in place near the carb. I'm guessing that the cable has slipped a tinch (A highly technical term that means a crunt hair) and is not shutting or closing the throttle to it's complete throw.

Repair of this condition could not be more simple then loosening the cable a tinch (see earlier definition) and moving the cable a tinch. Should be a very simple bracket that holds the cable near the carb. Adjust the position of the cable, tighten the bolt and go on to a happy and rewarding shredding experience. Hope this was of help. ;)

Hey, Cap'n, that's exactly what I'm going to try. Definitely helpful, especially if I gauge my tinches right. Gary

Pulled off gas tank, easy access to throttle mechanism. Now, throttle lever fails to return throttle to "stop" at all (it doesn't move back). Here are three pics, the first one showing the lever in left (stop) position). The only link I can see between the operator's lever and the mechanism itself goes through that thingie with the spring and a "paperclip" type deal that connects to the lever part. Can't make sense of it. Maybe someone else can (I hope). Thanks, Gary

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Gary,

"...but today moving the lever from full run to stop failed to stop the engine; it kept idling."

I think the engine gets stopped by switching off the ignition, which has to do with the spark plug. There is a mechanism in the upper right-hand part of your pictures that could be an electrical contact switch. It has something like a nylon insert that seems to be too high to be contacted by the arm on the throttle-run lever (Part A). The nylon part may be a self-lubricating cam-follower for Part A.

Maybe you could push that nylon part down so that the Part A arm can't pass under it, as it seems to be doing in your lower photograph. Or possibly the nylon pad isn't too high, but the throttle-run lever (Part A) is too low. Has this assembly been disassembled and reassembled? I ask that because there is a part with a yellowish purple sheen just below the pivot nut that doesn't seem to be performing any obvious function in your pictures. Is it possible that it should be under the Part A lever in order to position it higher? If Part A were higher, its extension would contact and engage the nylon component of the electrical switch.

Another thing, which may not be relevant because this "Part A" part may have been used in different products as well, but there is an arm on Part A with a small hole that might accept a spring. There is a second hole, a little larger, up near the suspected electrical contact switch component. Those little holes may not have a function on your machine.

ZM

Well, that is a bit different then the throttle cable I was envisioning. So, take this wth a grain of salt but I would follow that link to the left in the picture to the carb and make some adjustments to the idle screw and see if that shuts her down. Make careful notes about how far you turn what ... if you knw what I mean.

Also not familar with what you got by the picture or disscription? is this on a tiller or something??

usually the engine is killed by a kill plate which ground out the coil when the throttle is pulled all the way back and prevents if from firing. Most all briggs I have owned operates this way the throttle will only go to idle and the kill switch or connection wire grounds out and stops the spark plug from firing.

I would post the engine model and hp and photo with more area showing the throttle lever on top the engine to see if we can see a coil kill set up?

Thanks, guys, all this was helpful; I learned a few things here. In the end, focusing on the business about making contact to kill the engine (wire to spark plug), what I think happened was this: Unaware I was actually fixing the problem, I pulled out a maverick twig that had lodged itself between Part A and the mechanism to which the wire leading to the spark plug (with nylon bushing) was attached, preventing the metal to metal contact. It has to have been that. The thing is working great now. Again, thanks for taking the time with me on this, I appreciate it. Gary