If it's not a 325 chain and bar and sproket I'd get one, It wil cut way faster in bigger wodd tha a 3/8 setup. Night and day difference on my Rancher55. I've heard that semi chiesel chains don't get dull as fast in dirty wood but cut slower. Try and stay away from the safety chain, the rakers are too high and it has too many of them too cut good even when sharp. Steve

It has the original 'HUSQVARNA' bar and chain (OEM'd from Oregon) from when bought new. On the bar it says:

72DL .325 .050

So yeah it is a '325' bar/chain currently. What current Oregon chain would this correspond to?

Oh and the manual mentions a "7 sprocket" - is that the end of the bar or the driveshaft from the motor?

Some exposure to sand is unavoidable in my working environment.

If it is the square top chisel chain the Oregon number is 20LP. The so called 'safety' chain Steve mentioned is 33LP, a waste of money IMHO. You might want to try the 20DP round top chipper chain, it might be a little more forgiving in your conditions.
The 7 tooth drive sprocket will slow the chain a bit but allow more lugging power, the 8 tooth=speed.

The sprocket is on the driveshaft. A larger sprocket will give you greater chain speed but you'll have less torque and vice versa. There are even 9 pin sprockets. I am not sure if 10 is made. I have not heard of there being a 6, but maybe there are.

Some will run a smaller bar or "port" the engine. Then they will run a bigger sprocket to improve cut times.

7 tooth 325 is the way to go on a stock 50cc saw. Steve

Thanks for the responses.

I found my mag glass and looked closer at the original chain. The OEM chain is marked "95" and "25" and appears to possibly correlate to Oregon 95VP072G (?).

Q: If so, how does the OE 95VP compare to the 20LP or 20BP? (It looks a lot like the 20LP)

Q: & how does the OE 95VP compare to the 33SL?

Again - it's for a 1-2 hardwood trees a year in very sandy conditions.

95VP:
{{gwi:321751}}

20LP:
{{gwi:321753}}

21BP:
{{gwi:321755}}

33SL
{{gwi:321757}}

FYI the original bar (painted "Husqvarna") has a scratched up part #. After doing a little guesswork and trying a few substitutions it appears to be "5089261-72"

Q: Is this designed for narrow kerf chains like the 95VP? Can it also handle the standard kerf chains like the 20LP etc from above?

FYI#2 - 2 teeth are broken off the chain next to each other. After sharpening it still cuts OK. Any problems continuing to use with a couple broken teeth next to each other?

Thanks for your patience w/ all these questions - I just like to be safe and informed with the chainsaw. Rather ask the question here than learn something the hard way!

The 95VP (.325x.050)chain has thinner cutters (narrow kerf) but needs to be used with the Microlite bar. It works well on smaller saws but the 55 has more than enough power to run the regular chain.
Adjoining broken teeth indicate contact with a foreign object like a spike or fencing staple. Don't worry about it unless speed and production are an issue.

Yep it must have contacted something.

Since Husqv sold it this way I presume the stock 5089261-72 bar is indeed a MicroLite or equiv. However it should also work with standard chains (vs narrow kerf) like 20LP without needing to be changed.

Thanks

I cut alot hardwoods all types, and in my opinion the
Husqvarna brand chains hold an edge longer than the Oregons.

Interesting. My Husqv was sold new with an Oregon chain already installed. Other new Husqvs I've seen were similarly equipped. The bars I however are genuine Husqv AFAIK.

larryjawa wrote:
"I cut alot hardwoods all types, and in my opinion the
Husqvarna brand chains hold an edge longer than the Oregons."