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Suitable tree for container planting

I have a "northish" facing patio (@30'x 25') that is bounded east and west by 1.5 story wings to my farmhouse. I have this yen to create a sort of courtyard effect in this one area with a container tree in the center and some fountain water features. Ideally, the tree would provide a bit of dappled shade for a chair or two.

What I have to use are a couple of heavy molded square black plastic container with wide lips 31" x 31" x 16" such as you might find small Japanese maples planted in at garden centers.

I'm OK with root pruning and storing trees in my cellar in the winter. I tried moving my potted brugs and bananas into the pool building (one of the wings), but as it isn't heated or insulated, the plants froze. So, anything not hardy that I want to live through my Mid-Atlantic zone 6 winters, will have to be wrapped and carted down into our cellar.

Can you suggest good tree types that would work in this situation? I'd love to try a chilopsis such as I used to have in TX, if it would take to the above treatment/winter dormancy or something with a naturally spreading/vase shape.

Ideas?

Comments (7)

  • 18 years ago

    Hmmm, you mentioned vase shaped. I use a potted plum tree in a very similar situation. Vase shaped, hardy (some varieties more hardy than others), provides spring flowers and summer fruit, tolerant of pruning.

    Just a thought.

    Cheers.

  • 18 years ago

    That would have been nice to consider. Unfortunately for me, all prunus species are verboten due to plum pox outbreak near me. Until we have 3 clean years in a row, we're under quarantine for stone fruit, even ornamentals. Too bad.

    As far as shape, I was mentioning spreading, but basically I just want to be able to stand or walk beneath the tree as well as put seating under it on the concrete patio.

  • 18 years ago

    OK, I'll mention a few other trees that I keep in containers; and I can keep them small with top and root pruning. I've only been doing this for a couple of years, so none are real big yet. I'm not sure if they are hardy in your zone; look them up:

    Albizia julibrissen - Trained with one central leader, wide-spreading, flat-topped canopy.

    Cercis candadensis

    Catalpa - Can be a large tree, but I will be managing the size by pollarding at the desired height. Also planning on trying the same with Paulownia.

    Acer negundo - A weed tree, but grows fast, and I will also control with pollarding. I just got my first A. negundo 'Flamingo' with variegated foliage. Looks cool.

    Cornus controversa, variegated.

    I'll think of others.

    good luck

  • 18 years ago

    redneck,
    I have an acer negundo someone convinced me to buy. I have been underwhelmed. The bright green/yellow bark is barely noticable from a distance (main vantage point) but its weedy, weak wood is.

    Now that I've finished complaining, how do you pollard the darned thing? Coppicing is different how?
    Thanks

  • 18 years ago

    redneck,
    I have an acer negundo someone convinced me to buy. I have been underwhelmed. The bright green/yellow bark is barely noticable from a distance (main vantage point) but its weedy, weak wood is.

    Now that I've finished complaining, how do you pollard the darned thing? Coppicing is different how?
    Thanks

  • 18 years ago

    Citrus, camellias, Japanese maples will all live happily in pots, especially if you are willing to winter them over in a more sheltered spot. The citrus and camellia, being evergreen, would need more light than the cellar would give. If you could build a temporary plastic shelter-inside-a-shelter in the pool house/wing, and string a light or a heat lamp up for it, they might be OK there, esp. the camellia.

    Otherwise, what about one of the small maples, or a serviceberry? A bay laurel might have the same problems as the camellia, but is elegant in a pot. Apples, esp. the more dwarf ones, would work. What about a fig? They are deciduous, so the cellar for the winter would be fine. Possumhaw/Ilex decidua should also work. And many of the bamboos would also live happily in a pot, especially the clumping ones. I think one of the larger hydrangeas might also work, as might a mountain laurel.

  • 18 years ago

    Idabean, coppicing is cutting a plant to a short stump, and allowing new growth to create a new leader. In short, by coppicing you're basically cutting to the ground, or nearly so.

    Pollarding is entirely different, and only some species of trees are suitable. In pollarding, you allow your chosen branches to reach a desired height, then you prune ALL new growth at this level every year or two. Pruning is done to preserve the branch collar to help the wound heal. New growth is never allowed to stay on the tree much over 2 years, at which time it becomes progressively more woody, and harder for the plant to heal the pruning wound. Over time, the accumulation of the healed branch collars cause the production of a bulbous knob at the end of your chosen branch, called a pollard head. Some people hate the look, some love it.

    Pollarding a tree, if done with purpose and care, it NOT the same as heading a tree back, which is butchery.

    Do a Google image search for "pollard trees" to see some examples. There are also some good websites that explain the intricacies of good pollarding.

    I am also pleaching some of my trees. Google "pleaching" for a whole new tree-gardening idea!

    Cheers