Soil chemistry is complex, however, a soil test with the extension service is not. If your goal is a good horticultural approach have the soil tested. They will tell you what to do. If you have a "corer" and can take some 6-8" cores you can tell a lot. Take a bag of mixed cores and an individual (typical looking) core to the extension service and you will learn a lot.
hortster

Actually, I think that there are more plants that do best in a more acid pH range than neutral.

Most all nutrients plants use are most available in the soil pH range of 6.2 to 6.8 which is why most plants do best with a soil pH in that range. A good, reliable soil test, periodically, is always a good idea so you are not putting "stuff" your soil does not need in that soil which is a large waste of your time, energy, and money. I hear some TV "gardeners" suggesting that some lime be added to soils every year, with no regard to area of the world or the amount. Adding insufficient amounts of any nutrient will do little and adding more simply contibutes to the pollution orf our world.

Did I mention that the basis for my interest in pH is my mistaken idea that my soil was acid. That based on a soil analysis done by Cornell some years ago. My mistake was to take that analysis and assume it was typical of soil elsewhere in my garden. Great mistake. Now I don't really know that as I have no reliable way to test for pH. I've tried the cheap meters and the little kits. The meters don't work even the new one I bought and the colors for the kit doesn't seem to either. I would like to try litmus paper which so far I can't find in any store around here. On line sources are cluttered with all sorts of people who want to sell you something else. Then there is the fact that the results may not be that accurate. Yes I know send a sample to Cornell. Well there are lots of reasons why that is not a great idea either. Well I'll just muddle on!

The least expensive method of measuring soil pH that I have found is by using indicator dye solutions. Bromothymol blue is yellow at pH=6, and blue at pH=7.6. Bromocresol purple is yellow at pH=5.2, and purple at pH=6.8. Bromocresol green is yellow at pH=3.8, and blue at pH=5.4. These solutions can be had for about 2 dollars each, through the mail, from scientific supply houses, like Elemental Scientific, and HMS Beagle. You might be able to find a local supply, though I doubt it. Soil samples are mixed with distilled water, and the filtered leachate is what you test. All you need is 5ml. or one teaspoon of filtrate, to do a test. The results are not as accurate as a calibrated pH meter, you end up with a range of pH, so, for instance, when I test around our blueberry beds, the solution will typically turn green, using bromocresol green, and that result is interpreted to mean that soil pH is between 4.5 and 5.

Actually, the store bought kits are remarkably accurate for the price but you must use distilled water rather than tap water for the testing. And pH will vary some from location to location within a garden depending on how the soil has been amended and proximity to factors that can influence pH, like concrete.

I'd be rather surprised if your soil wasn't acidic to some degree - most of the New England states do have naturally acidic soils due to parent soil material, proximity to urban areas and rainfall.