Confused about mulch

15 years ago

Hello, I'm an enthusiastic new gardner (2nd year) and I'm confused about mulch. I understand the benefits of mulch to be keeping moisture in the soil but I want to know if this is necessary only if there is a problem with soil moisture. I also understand its used as a way to beautify a garden bed and protect from erosion...and that's about all I understand. I have some ornamentals where mulch is recommended so I purchased cedar mulch only to learn that it draws the nutrients out of the soil (what's the point of Cedar mulch if it draws all the nitrogen from the soil?). So I went around and removed all the cedar mulch, and purchased coconut coir mulch.

Does coir mulch add or draw nutrients from the soil? Which mulch should be used in a perennial bed where there is young and growing plants? Also what if I want to plant more in a mulched area, would it cause any problems for new plants, bulbs or bare-roots?

I've also heard of something called 'black satin'. I like the black look of it, is this a better mulch than the coconut coir? I would rather leave it mulch-less than use something that will later prove problematic.

Thanks for being patient

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Comments (8)

redteddy
Original Author
15 years ago
Oh yeah I forgot to mention pine mulch. I was given a bag of pine mulch but I'm not sure what I should do with it. Can it be mixed in with the coir?
robertz6
15 years ago
Did you read the short FAQ articles for this forum? They will provide some general info.

I use compost as mulch for my tomatoes and garden plants.

Mulch (organic and or inorganic material) does not take out nitrogen out of the soil. If you mix a woody 'brown' material such as bark, wood chips, or sawdust WITH soil, then nitrogen might be lacking for your plants in this spot.

I like compost as a mulch material even though it does not last as long as other types of mulch. It smuthers some grass and weeds, makes the stuff that does come thru easy to pull up, keeps the soil from drying out, add a slow release of nutrients into the soil.
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
15 years ago
While robertz6 made it pretty clear, I want to re-emphasize that cedar mulch.....or any other wood-based mulch for that matter......does NOT pull any nutrients from the soil unless you mix that mulch in with the soil.

And most organic-based mulches will accomplish the same thing - weed supression, soil protection, moisture retention, improvement of soil tilth, contribute to soil biology, provide a source of nutrients etc. - it's just that some do one or more in a more efficient or attractive manner than others :-) Just use whatever is easily available and the least expensive.
annpat
15 years ago
I hate wood chip mulches, but not because they draw nitrogen out of the soil (they don't) and not because they look like MacDonald's landscaping (they do), but because I like a mulch that breaks down more quickly and, hence, feeds the soil more quickly. I use compost mulches, hay or straw mulches, seaweed mulches, and my favorite----mulch made from chipped leaves. I use slow-to-breakdown wood chips in my paths, not because I think commercial-looking mulch is attractive, but because I can get it cheaply.
Kimmsr
15 years ago
Mulch is a material that is placed on the soil, not in the soil. Some organic materials when mixed into soil could cause a temporary Nitrogen deficiency as the Soil Food Web uses the available soil Nitrogen to digest that organic matter, however they will not do that with mulches. I put down a layer of wood chips as mulch shortly after planting some shrubs and, because that mulch helped hold moisture in the soil those shrubs grew faster and were greener then some I planted elsewhere but did not get mulched right away.
Mulches should recede into the background, they should not be the center of attention and draw the eye from the plants they are under as they do at places like annpat mentions. Any material you use for mulch, except shredded rubber, will eventually be digested by the Soil Food Web, it is just that wood chips are, usually slower then shredded leaves.
Cedar, pine wood, chips or needles, coir, shredded leaves, hardwood chips, almost anything you can use as a mulch will not "rob the soil of Nitrogen" (and even at that it will be temporary) or cause stunted plant growth.
General
15 years ago
I recommend a sawdust mulch because it is economical, long lasting, and is high in nitrogen (typically 4%), phosphorus (2% phosphorus oxide), and postassium (4% potassium oxide). (Reference: Page B14, Table B-11 of the 2011 Penn State Cooperative Extension Commercial Vegetable Production Recommendations). Per the table, unlike many other sources of nitrogen, the nitrogen from sawdust is released very slowly (good!).

Here is a link that might be useful: PA Commercial Vegetable Production Recommendations
joepyeweed
15 years ago
I use mulch mainly for weed suppression. Our soil holds moisture just fine. I also use thick layers of mulch on some plants for winter protection.

My favorite mulch is shredded leaves because I have plenty of them. The best mulch is whatever you can get for free that is convenient for you.
jolj
15 years ago
If you have a well balanced garden soil, then you should not have a problem with a nutrient deficiency.
You are at this for 24 months, then you will need more compost & nutrients to work your beds up.
But mulch is not a problem.
I agree with joeyeweed, shredded leaves are free & great.
I till my mulch under at the end of the season, with no problems. If you are of the no till group, then just leave them to rot.
I have 5 or so bags of leave I am not using & it is near the time to gather again.
My mulch holds in water & holds down weeds, will be compost by Spring.