Software
Houzz Logo Print
rachelgoldberg_gw

Questions for garbage bin composters

17 years ago

I'm planning to start composting with 2 garbage bins, with lots of holes in the sides and the bottom, and set them on top of bricks to allow for drainage. But, never having done this before, I have a couple of questions.

Where should I put the bins (sun or shade)? I live in northern virginia -- really hot and humid in the summer, cold, some snow in the winter. We have a car port that I'd really like to put them under, but I'm not sure if they need the sun on them to heat them up. I plan to put in kitchen scraps, which we generate a lot of, grass clippings, some weeds, and brown leaves and torn up paper/cardboard. I think I'll have plenty of greens (in fact, I think I'll be at risk of it becoming just a slimy mess).

Also, I'm hoping not to have to turn it very often -- just fill up one bin and then let it sit while I fill up the other. Will this plan work? If not, how do you turn it once it's full (other than using a pitchfork to take it all out and then put it all back in)?

Last question: should I put anything in the bottom like dirt with some worms or straw/torn up cardboard?

Thanks in advance for helping me figure this out -- this is a great forum. I'm really excited to start this soon.

Comments (7)

  • 17 years ago

    I think you should read more before attempting this type of composting. A new composter should go the easiest route; IMHO, a mesh bin 4' in diameter, two or three feet tall.

    This arrangement seems too likely to smell.

  • 17 years ago

    Unfortunately, we have rodents that I really don't want to attract to our small backyard. Do you have any tips on how I could avoid it smelling bad? Will adding enough browns take care of the smell?

  • 17 years ago

    Hi

    I've never composted using this method but there is no reason it wouldn't be successful.

    I would put a few inches of shredded leaves, shredded straw or even peat on the bottom. This would help soak up any excess moisture and allow for easier air movement.

    I would mix my materials as I added them. A lot of tutorials say layer but if one is not intending to stir later, pre-mixed would be better.

    Sun versus shade not really an issue for the compost itself. If it gets cold in the winter, as in below freezing, the containers themselves may become brittle and the UV from the sun can cause deterioration of the plastic so that might be an issue.

    If you do generate a lot of grass clippings, I fear you may not have enough volume in your bins but you didn't say how large the bins are so that may be moot.

    Good luck, give it a try and keep us posted. Pictures are always good.

    Lloyd

  • 17 years ago

    Don't need to be in sun. Layering enough browns helps keep it from becoming to garbagy--but since it IS garbage to start with, you may see some bugs in there--so wouldn't have it right next to your door. Whether 2 cans will work depends on how much stuff you put in--I guess you saw my reply to your previous post--because it takes a few months for this method to break down. Do not need to put any dirt in bottom. Very small pieces of sticks can help keep it somewhat aerated, though that is more effective in a container or pile subject to being turned. Also, I tolerate small sticks in my finished compost, because my trees generate a lot of sticks, and I let them finish decomposing in flower beds, particularly out-of the-way areas, but some people do not. The smaller the pieces of whatever you put in, the better it mixes. For example, cut a rotten potato or apple into chunks when you can; flower stems are best if cut into smaller pieces rather than being 18" long. That kind of thing--it isn't that it won't compost otherwise, but that larger veg's are more "garbagy" and tough stringy things may remain somewhat intact and create pockets of undecomposed stuff in a system which you are not turning regularly.

    You might find it helpful to have a ready supply of "browns" in another can or bin nearby. For example, you could keep dry shredded paper and cardboard pieces handy to layer in right there. I tend to be more haphazard and never really follow a specific "ratio"--if one day I have a lot of kitchen waste I'll go check our shredder and hope there's stuff in there or maybe nudge someone to do some shredding!

    I've been really tempted to start a worm bin but haven't got my mind around where to put it indoors.

  • 17 years ago

    I have a couple of garbage can bins. It can be done.

    It doesn't matter if they are in sun or shade - heat comes from within the pile.

    I don't really turn mine. They are difficult to turn. I do have one of those aerators (kind of a stick with collapsible wings) which you stick in and then twirl, but it has been known to get stuck, which is a pain in the neck.

    This is a slow method of composting. You may find that you end up with more garbage can bins because you need to let the original one(s) cook and you have more stuff to put somewhere (a new bin!).

    They can be smelly. I find the bottom of the bin can get anaerobic, heavy, and stinky, but it doesn't stink until it's exposed when I go to empty the bin. At that point I just throw the smelly stuff into the next bin and carry on.

    Make sure you have lots of holes in them. Keep some ripped up cardboard, shredded leaves, or shredded paper handy in case it gets too damp or starts to smell.

    Good luck! Have fun!
    Dee

    Here is a link that might be useful: garbage can bins

  • 17 years ago

    I understand about not wanting to attract rodents. That's one reason I use relatively cheap Earth Machines for composting in my urban environment instead of the do-it-yourself wire bins favored by many on this forum. The Earth Machines are roughly like your plastic garbage bins, only bigger and designed specifically for the job.

    To answer your questions:

    1. Sun or shade doesn't really matter. Compost-in-process generates its own heat. My bins are all in shade and reach 165 degrees farenheit under perfect conditions. But even if it doesn't heat up much, it'll eventually compost, only at a slower rate.

    2. The best tactics against having a slimy mess are: (A) don't overwater, it needs to be only slightly moist, dry enough that oxygen is available throughout so that you favor the non-stinky aerobic bacteria over the stinky anaerobic bacteria. (B) add more browns. If and when it starts to stink, just add more browns. A layer of browns on the top should stop the stink immediately, if thick enough -- I use the leaves I collected in the fall and saved. Mixing them in will be quicker at getting to the root of the problem. (C) Time will take care of it sooner or later.

    3. How to turn it? I use a combination of three techniques: (A) I can mix the top one to two feet in place rather easily with an ordinary garden fork. If you do this whenever you've added a foot or so of material it will be fairly well mixed. (B) I sometimes use one of those winged aerators when I want to reach deeper than the top two feet. (C) I cut or shred tough fibrous slow-to-decompose ingredients like rose and rhododendron prunings into small pieces, otherwise those long pieces cling to their surroundings like anchors and can be very hard to lift.

    4. You don't need to add dirt or worms to the bottom. I just start with a layer of browns several inches thick at the bottom.

    It's better to err on the side of too many browns than too many greens. The downside of the former is that composting is slower, the downside of the latter is a temporarily smelly mess.

    Good luck.

  • 17 years ago

    Fresh grass clippings can be a problem in these containers because they are the ultimate green and get very smelly very fast unless well-mixed with dry material. I never knew what rotten grass smelled like until I started street-grazing for bagged grass, which I use sometimes in my non-can composting areas. So, depends on the size of your lawn, but don't expect to be able to put in a big bagful of clippings. Also, if you actually dry the grass out, then the can method can handle more. Or, if it's not an invasive grass that you're scared to get even a hint in flower beds, grass clippings can be used as mulch or compost in place. This is where you might try to see if you have a little yard corner where you could compost stuff that does not attract critters--such as just grass and leaves.