15 or so months is a long time in storage if the only prep for that was simply parking it and walking away.
The most likely reason it does not run now would be that the fuel in the carburetor bowl turned to varnish and has rendered the carburetor inoperable until a thorough cleaning of the carb gets rid of all the gums and residues.
Depending on what style carb is on this tractor, it may have a fuel solenoid on the carb. If so, the varnish may have seized the solenoid plunger valve tight so it can't open to let fuel through to the main jet (and on to the engine).
A simple way to determine whether this non-run condition is due to "lack of fuel" or "lack of spark" is to remove the air filter and pour about one teaspoon of gasoline, or about a 1 second shot of spray carb cleaner, into the carburetor throat. Then crank the engine over to see if it wants to run for a second or 2 on that shot of fuel.
If the non-run condition is caused by lack of fuel, the engine will run for a couple of seconds on each dose of gas or shot of carb cleaner.

If the engine does not try to run on the shot of fuel, the problem is likely caused by either a defect in the ignition system, or a defect in the safety interlock system which has the ignition system disabled.

Try the spoonful of gas first to see if the engine will respond to it and post back the results.

Not much point in giving further checks until then.

OK, having found an online Operator's Manual I see the carburetor is configured as "side draft" throat. Because of this I suggest the test I offered in my first post above be done using ONLY spray carb cleaner. DO NOT USE ether based starting fluid.
Spray carb cleaner comes with a plastic "straw" (usually taped to the can) for dispensing.
Attach the straw to the can. Remove air filter from engine.
Set the choke in the off position. Set the throttle to "wide open" or high speed.
Insert the straw into the carburetor throat a couple of inches (about half the straw length) and press the nozzle on the can for just 1 second burst of spray.
Quickly remove the straw and set the can down away from the tractor (or hand it off to your helper) and try cranking the engine normally.
The rest of the test remains the same as my first post.

To view an Owner's Manual online, click the link and choose the apt manual by serial number on your tractor.

Here is a link that might be useful: JD Manu

Thanks, Mownie!! We'll start with that test, hopefully this weekend. We didn't intend to leave the mower in that condition upon moving, but hubby was already working in the new location when we got the house ready for market (and I was mowing with it at the time. Then, house sold in 1 week, and we were gone 3 weeks later with hubby still in new location. I just had too much to do to think about the mower when that's usually his realm--I only sit on it).

I'll post back when we get a chance to work on it.
Thanks again,

I'm finally baaaack with update. Hubby didn't have time until this past weekend to mess with the mower, and since I was the one push-mowing the yard until now, he wasn't in a hurry.

Anyway, it seems that the fuel lines leading to the carb are fine (fuel pours out the end). We then sprayed the carb cleaner into the carburetor and it would start and run for a second (as long as it had that burst of fuel). We did it repeatedly, each time the running of the engine seemed to last a tiny bit longer than the previous attempt...did this until we ran the battery down. Hubby didn't feel comfortable taking apart the carburetor, but we might try it a few more times after the battery is charged, otherwise I guess we pay to have someone come get it and fix it.

The only thing I didn't remember to tell him was to have the throttle wide open during the spraying of the carb cleaner--would this make a big difference?

Thanks!
Tracey

Tracey b, since hubby doesn't feel OK about trying to dismantle the carb for a cleanout, you have probably gone as far with this as you should (so far as DIY applies).
The fact that the engine attempts to run when offered a flammable liquid through the carburetor air intake confirms that the engine has a good ignition system and that it only needs a good fuel system to go with that.
You need to recharge that recently installed battery ASAP or you will have to replace it soon (dead batteries completely self destruct internally quickly).

Thanks, mownie. He put the charger to the battery as soon as we finished tinkering with the mower.

He didn't get home early enough tonight to want to give it one more go. I wish he'd try dismantling the carburetor because I think he could do it--he's pretty good at basic stuff, but I guess he doesn't want to spend the time doing it AND worrying about messing it up even more.

Thanks again for your advice.

Not to detract from mowie's instructions he's very direct and by the book and has helped amany on this forum including me! I'm more of a shade tree kinda of guy that cuts alot of corners so take this for what's it worth?

your hubby will know if he's in over his head on this and I guessing you 180 has a single kolher engine with a wabro carb.? (if so google kolher engine carb. for pictures and instruction on how to dissassemble and clean)

if so you might get lucky by just remove the fuel bowl and spray the interards with carb. cleaner. first remove the fuel hose to the carb and plug or gas may gravity feed from the gas tank creating a hazardous condition and alway do carb. work out side when raw gas is present?).

You would want to spray carb. cleaner up the center screw hole (main jet above it), the float hinge area and any small passages you can see (wearing eye protection so you don't accidently get carb. cleaner in your eyes). you can also see if any gas will pass the needle valve and seat by attaching the fuel hose with a catch can under the carb. and see if any fuel will dribble out with the float swung down by gravity being the bowl is off and the carb. float unseated and thinks it need to let fuel in??. I would also spray any small passages I can see looking down the venturi (hole in the carb. with the air cleaner off).

now put the carb bowl back on being careful and ensuring the o-ring is in the groove and will seal gas off when the bowl fills back up and don't overtighen the small bolt you took off to remove the bowl. install the fuel hose, wait couple minutes for the carb. bowl to fill up, look for leaks, then try to start it using the carb. cleaner as prime. do this several times before you give up. It will cost you no more if you have to take it in and let some one else, clean the carb. which they will want to rebuild it? why? sounds like more labor and expense.

I have done this many times on engines that has been out of service for a couple of years and they finely started running. If you have to keep the choke half way on the carb. is still dirty and you will have to run some additive or still may have to take it in for clean/rebuild.

Thanks, rcmoser. I think I have hubby talked into giving it one more go this weekend.

It's a Kawasaki engine, not Kohler.

When you guys talk about the carb bowl, we're not exactly sure what you mean. Are you talking about the bottom part of this (picture below)? Unscrew the thing on the bottom, center of it?

Thanks.
{{gwi:349098}}

In my copy of your photo, item 1 (fuel solenoid) unscrews to permit removal of float bowl (item 2).

The fuel solenoid might be varnished up (stuck) and causing at least part of your troubles. There is a small "plunger valve" you will see once the solenoid is removed from the carb. This plunger should move in and out of the solenoid body if you press hard on the plunger with a finger.
If it does not move, clean up the plunger with spray carb cleaner.

{{gwi:323759}}

In this case the elect. fuel shut-off solenoid (item 1) in in place of and older design carb. that just has a bolt to hold the float bowl on. Just remove the wire and using a wrench on the hex portion of the solenoid.

This solenoid will click and open when you turn the key to the on position moving the plunger that mowie talked about to let fuel into the carb.

you can test this by simply removing it ground it out against the carb. (with the power wire connected)(or you can use a battery charger with the + connected to the elect. hook-up and the - grounded against the body of the solonoid) and turn the switch to the on position. you should see the plunger actuate out when power is supplied (12V) and retract when power (12Vs is removed) Other than that spraying the passages and seeing if float works is the same as older design carb.

remember their will be two gaskets when you remove the float bowl, 1 on the solenoid to seal it against the carb. bowl(usually a crush type gasket that can be reused if it didn't get torn up during removal, 2 o-ring at the top of the fuel bowl which usually sticks to the carb. housing and can be reused if it didn't get damaged during removal.

you want the o-ring on the carb. housing for installation and not on the bowl cause the bowl slips over the o-ring and will most likely get pinched if put inside the bowl when installing or have it on the carb. housing to alow the bowl to slip over the o-ring for a good seal job, but you still have to look and see if it's pinched out while tighen the solenoid.

as with all o-ring installations you need some type of lubricant to ensure you don't pinch the o-ring when installing it, most use small amount of vasoline jelly. If you have pinched it fuel will leak when the float fills the bowl up.

To prevent pinching of the o-ring install the bowl and hold it up against the carb while screwing the solenoid on hand tight, now look around the bowl where it meets the carb housing for the o-ring sticking out, if you don't see no protrusion the tighten the solenoid using a wrench on the hex part of the solenoid. Tighten as tight as it was coming off trying not to over tighten it so you don't smash the crush gasket on the solenoid creating leak.

most people with general knowledge and do this, if you have fuel leak try to see if the fuel is coming from the bottom or the top of the fuel bowl? remove the bowl inspect the gaskets and try to reseal it again, if it still leaks then you will have to take it to a mechanic which IMO will cost you no more that taking in as long as you didn't lose or damage parts during the trial maintenance repair. kinda of long sorry.

There is a passage above in the stem of the carb as well. Though it is removable if one is careful, try inserting the stem from a can of carb spray up into the center (from the bottom) and cleaning first.

THANKS!!! We'll (or he will) be attempting to go a bit further on the carburetor cleaning this weekend thanks to a little better understanding now of what to do.

You guys are great!
Wish us luck.....

Weeeeelllll....... Did as directed above. Everything looked clean before being sprayed with carb cleaner. Lines leading into carb are clear.

Reassembled and tried starting with a spritz of carb cleaner like before. I thought it was going to work! It stayed running a bit longer than before and sounded nice and smooth, but then it died. So.....off to the JD doctor it goes. Bummer. I have tons of leaves to mow today with the push mower--not a happy camper.

Many thanks to you guys for all your help and guidance! I appreciate your time.

Tracey

WITH THE INFORMATION I'VE READ ON THE LT 180.
I'M READY TO TRY TO GET MY MOWER GOING TOMORROW,

THANKS