Let's ASSUME you got the correct parts and installed them properly... and we all know what ASSUME means. If either isn't true then you'll never get the deck leveled.

In general you want side to side to be level and the front a little lower than the rear.

Unless your manual outlines a specific procedure that works, set the deck at your desired cutting height and make sure the anti-scalping wheels are raised.

You want to level on a flat concrete surface.

Check tire pressures all around before proceeding.

Don't measure the deck... measure the blades. John Deere makes a cheap, nifty tool (part number AM130907) to do so. It reaches under the deck and contacts the blade end. You can level with blades pointing side to side for side to side level and blades pointing fore and aft for front to rear pitch.

When you're all done set the anti-scalping wheels to 1/2" above the ground when deck is at desired cutting height.

This post was edited by justalurker on Wed, Sep 4, 13 at 18:20

Excellent advice JL.
OP, I used to own a YT4000 and had an issue with raising the deck fully w/o it binding. I can't recall specifically what was wrong, but I do recall that I had improperly installed either a suspension bracket or a suspension link. Pretty sure it was a link. Once properly installed, all was well.

IIRC some Sears use a deck lift link that has a chain or part chain. Hooking the wrong link would sure goof leveling up?

IR those. I think the Simplicity I used for mowing the church lawn in the early 60's had it. The DYT4000. I had was a 2009/Husqvarna and the links were solid rods with a hook on one end and about 2" of thread on the other for making the leveling/tilt adjustments. I guess the OP is going to need to post the Sears Model#.

Good advise on the leveling. As an added note, most of these will not raise above the range you have listed. They will top at almost 3 1/2 with a touch of give -sometimes struggle to get 3 1/4". About the only thing that can be affecting it is a broken weld at the top plate to the deck. A good place to start when setting up the pitch is to set the front rods to where you have to lift the deck in front about a 1/2 inch to slide the rod ends into the deck bracket. With that you should be close.

Justalurker, that is a nice tool that You mention. my model is a 917274632 , and of course I think everything is back where it is supposed to be. The adjustment side to side is like grass1950 mentions, a rod threaded to raise or lower the sides. like I said, I am guessing a cockpit problem that I just am not seeing. I have looked at the manual until I am crosseyed and I am hoping that something one of You guys say's will point me in the right direction. Thanks again for all info.

I'm not sure what you need here. If the deck is up all the way to where it hits the frame, there ain't no more!

I read the manual for your tractor and the leveling procedure is specific and straightforward.

If I were you, I'd go back to square one and start the leveling process again.

Could be that the impact that bent your mandrel also bent the deck shell... I've seen that happen especially on light gauge decks and even on real tough decks if you whack them hard enough.

Could be you bent the front deck links (arms).

This post was edited by justalurker on Thu, Sep 5, 13 at 23:13

I went over it all from scratch and with the deck adjusted to get max height on the blades (3.75 inch) and side to side in specs, I had to add about 3/4 of thread to the front deck links to get the front back to come in spec. I looked for a bend or a cracked weld etc and see nothing. The deck is in spec all the way around now but I don't know why I had to thread the links?

I bet on something bent..

Next time you have the deck off remove the anti-scalp wheels and see if the deck shell sits flat on concrete.

Then I'd look to see if all the mandrels are perpendicular to the ground. If one is crooked that indicates a bent deck shell.

Then look carefully at the lift links and where they hang from and where they attach to the deck to see if anything is bent.

Check the front rods and where they attach to the deck and to the tractor.

It doesn't take much of a bend to cause a problem with deck leveling.

justalurker, I agree that there has to be something but I have checked the deck itself for bends while it was off, checked mandrels after replacing and lift assembly looks good? I did have bend in one of the brackets on the front that holds the deck link, I looked at it again to see if maybe something was pushed back or broken and it looks good. I am guessing it is something I am missing and I appreciate the ideas. Thanks

You know a many of the yt4000/3000 only have one adjustable height link on the left side, the right one is fixed.
See my recent posts about adding the second adjustable height linkage and the 10 position console.

simply adding the 10 position gives more height to the deck.
my yt4000 after adjustment gets 4.25 inches of height on position 10 which I have to lower to 4.00 inches because the belt hits the deck a bit at that height as it's past the max 4 inch height of the mower.

There is no reason you can't get a full 4 inch cut on these tractors after adding the second adjustable link.

I highly recommend replacing the stock lift arm and 6 position console with the available 10 position.