Skipping over all the routine things I feel ``hands on'' is the true care.I make the rounds at least once and usually twice a day.I remove yellow or deformed leaves,deadhead,prune where needed,destub but most importantly I look.Look for signs of disease,malnutrition or any other problems.You also learn to judge what is not a problem.
You would think they would be grateful for all that TLC but they get me all the time.look like I was in a cat fight and lost-lol.
what you really learn is your plants needs so the care of them becomes second nature.Does take some of the mystique out of Rosing and roses.I find myself envying the newcomers enthusiasm,which keeps me coming back.

Yep, I agree with Pete... stay on top of problems or some will be goners. Here in Canker Country, anyway.

I start with the soil. Good soil, good nutrients, good texture and drainage. I'm selling something now that I love for that but would take an e-mail to me due to GW rules. I believe in micro-organisms to help make the best garden, I can say.

That is seriously over half the battle, IMHO. Next is sun and water to make 98%... good positioning [including hardiness if that's an issue, or air flow in BS county]. Water is bigger than I used to think, I was afraid of over-watering but with good soil drainage you practically can't.

Fertilization - do it is all I can say. I've got a recipe for that that goes back to forum rules, lol.

Pruning - in the spring here and important enough. Almost more important, IMHO is pruning bad canes as you go through the season. Canker Country.

Spraying the other 2%- either get resistant varieties or do some form of it. I have different beds so that mostly I dormant spray in the winter only [good varieties]. Some beds get more routine spraying 'cos they're wusses ;] Organic or not, some roses will need spraying or look rotten or even die.

Personally, I don't really deadhead except for fun... maybe on some roses that I want to bloom more frequently.

I don't spray for bugs because I have lots of predators here, over the years of not spraying. I will spray for JBs as they are getting ridiculous and I don't know if a predator balance is possible.

That's really it for me here. It took waiting for maturity on many, many roses but finally I see what rewards they can offer for not too much effort, IMHO.

Just the facts:
1. Starting in late winter spray with lime sulpher, dormant strength.(early March, sometimes Feb.)then prune the old biddies-Gallicas, Albas, Rugosas, Damasks. Then move on to Shurbs, HPs, Bourbons, Polyanthas, Chinas, Teas, etc. Last on this list would be Hybrid Teas but I don't have any of those.

2. As they leaf out, fertilize-I use Plant Tone or Holly Tone with Alfalfa Meal scratched into the soil. Sometimes I top dress with bagged manure. Then spray. I use Banner Maxx and Mancozeb plus a pesticide. Skip the pesticide if possible, but I have rose midge and would like to see rose blooms.
The spray routine is every two weeks. I also spray with Harpin every three weeks.

3. After first flush dies down-deadhead repeaters and fertilize. I use a spray mixture of compost tea, miracle grow with cleated iron (if iron deficiency) and fish oil and seaweed. This occurs in late June and early July.

4. Mid-to late July. Shape old biddies, the once bloomers. They usually get so big they infringe on other roses. I cut whatever is in the way.

5. Last fertilizer application no later than Aug. 1. Stop deadheading in September or 6 weeks before first hard freeze. Lately that has not been until December, but I like to play it safe.

I usually get spider mites because I spray for rose midge. So, I spray the under side of the leaves with a jet stream of water to dislodge these. Time this so it occurs just before a really hot day and continue for three to five days. Keep a lookout and repeat if necessary.

During JB season, cut any roses as soon as the sepels drop and take them inside. This is the only way to continue to enjoy your roses. Every evening and early morning if you can manage, collect JBs in bucket of soapy water to KILL.

Use free time to tell all your friends how easy roses are to care for.

Barbara, not a Certified Rosarian and I'm sure I've forgotten something.

I like what Pete said. It really is important to get to know your roses soil and climate intimately. It's different everywhere.
My regimen depends on the season. My garden is very large. It takes me several months to prune. Somewhere towards the end of this time before the rains are done I give all the roses compost and alfalfa pellets. After the new leaves appear I spray for fungus. I alternate compass with banner maxx adding liquid fertilizer and seaweed to the mix. After the first full bloom I attempt to get summer pruning accomplished. This is dead-heading and pruning out awkward growth. I feed the reblooming roses with liquid fertilizer. Watering becomes a huge chore. There are over 1000 roses now. Some are on drip irrigation many are hand watered. I've found that most ramblers can go all summer without water. I suspect that many ORGs could too. Some areas of the garden are mulched with compost and some I have laid down a heavey layer of rice straw. It makes a big differrence in keeping the soil cool and cutting down on watering. Six weeks before fall bloom I prune all the reblooming roses lightly and feed them. There are almost no weeds here because of the mulch and alot of dilligence in new plantings. We don't spray for insects. There is a very healthy bird population here. I think they may be helping me with this.

This is the second year I've used Bloomkote, a 4 month timed release chemical fertilizer. In addition to that, compost and/or bagged manure, alfalfa pellets a few times a season and when we spray, we use Messenger once a month and Response almost every time (spray every two weeks) all mixed together. And, we're pretty good about watering. Very diligent about deadheading. Cedar mulch.

We alternate between spraying Banner Maxx/Mancozeb and Compass.

I seriously amend the soil, usually the year before I am going to plant the roses in the bed. Lots of compost, manure, shredded leaves on top for mulch. And then when I plant I usually add half a bag of that "composted cow manure" from the garden ctr, along with a small handful of super phosphate. I don't know if the superphos makes a difference or not.

Water all new roses frequently the first year. Once they're in their 2nd year I usually don't give them any water other than rainfall. But I am thinking I probably should have during the past month-long mini drought, because I am now seeing dried up buds on many established shrubs.

In spring there is usually major pruning on most Austins due to winterkill. The OGRs I've selected so far have hardly any winterkill. While waiting for signs of life in early spring, I cross my fingers and hope they all made it through winter. Inspect several times/day during March-April to see if there's any buds breaking (there's nothing else to do at that time).

After they start leafing out, give them rabbit manure (we have two pet rabbits), or alfalfa meal. If I don't have enough to go around I'll do 5-10-10, but usually the organics are enough.

Admire the blooms. Then the happy giddiness fades away when I need to perform marathon deadheading tasks after that first flush.

After the first deadheading, more rabbit manure or alfalfa meal. Keep watering the new roses all summer.

In fall, apply as much compost as I've been able to make, get a truckload delivered if needed. Then mulch all beds with shredded leaves.

In Dec. I sometimes apply pine needles to some of the Austins as winter protection. Didn't do it last year, and although I didn't lose any roses, and they have all reached 4' by now, I think I will go back to laying the pine needles on many of them just so I have earlier buds in the spring. The roses winterkilled the worst were the latest to begin blooming. I get very impatient waiting for roses after our long winters.

1. Choose varieties that are recommended for disease resistance, or ones that I know do well in my area.

2. Plant around the end of March, when it's still really cold out and most things are just coming out of dormancy.

3. Dig a humongous planting hole, to break up any hard-packed soil for a long ways around. Add some organic material, like mushroom compost or steer manure. (I garden on sandy soil.) Fill the hole with water, add the rose, and backfill.

4. Prune established roses-- types that need pruning-- in early spring, when the forsythia starts to bloom around town.

5. Seal the tip of every newly pruned cane that is about 1/2 inch wide or larger with Elmer's All-Purpose Glue, to keep out the cane borers.

6. Use a strong stream of water from a garden hose to knock off the aphids when they begin to appear in heavy amounts in spring.

7. Use automatic sprinklers to water for about 30-40 min. once a week throughout the summer, since there is no natural precipitation around here in the summertime.

8. Deadhead reblooming varieties.

9. Use the garden hose to spray down roses again if aphids reappear, or red spider mites.

10. Drench soil around individual roses with pesticide every three years or so if they begin to lose vigor due to major infestations of black vine weevil.

That's it! Seems to work!

Oh, yeah, I should have mentioned that my neighbor's sycamore leaves blow over and accumulate around my roses every fall, which is all the winter protection that they get. When I prune the roses in early spring, I also cut off any old, tattered leaves that may still be clinging to them. Then I use a child-sized garden rake to remove all of the leaves from the area . . . sycamore leaves and rose leaves all together, leaving just bare ground. Since it's early in the year, the perennials that will later appear and act as a living mulch are still underground.

The information here is great! So often I have read or heard that old garden roses are care free; Earthkind roses in particular. I've always suspected that is not entirely true if you want "beautiful" old garden roses. I don't want a rose garden full of survivors, I want roses that are thriving. I want to become knowledgeable about the proper care of growing roses. All input from rose growers/lovers is so helpful. I can then pick and choose the regimens that will apply to me, my garden, and my climate.

In our best years, this is our schedule.
Because some of our roses bloom in December, in
January, we prune.
Feb. Fertilize China and Tea class roses with 10-10-10, because they bloom in March, here. Fertilize all other roses with fish emulsion, when leaves are half sized.
March. Pick bouquets of old garden roses.
April. Deadhead Chinas and Teas regularly. Feed all other rosebushes, with granular 20-20-20 for the big spring flush.
May spray with Cornell or Neem.
June. Feed all remontant roses with 20-20-20. Spray with Cornell and Neem against fungus,. Try and remember not to deadhead the non-remontant old garden roses, rose species and ramblers, to allow ornamental rosehips to form..
July. Relax and enjoy the lovely fruits of labor.
August Feed with 20-20-20 for the sept-oct finale of H.T.s and H.P.s Spray a few roses, if they requre it.
September, First week of September: feed 6 rose classes with 10-10-10, which continue to bloom through October/November, These are; China, Florabunda, Hybrid Musk, Noisette, Polyantha and my favorite Old Garden Rose Class; Tea.
November: Mulch with Mango Mulch. Pick bouquets of "Gingersnap" and "Reve d'Or" for Thanksgiving.
December. Rake any falling rose leaves up. Pick the last bouquets of white "Prosperity" roses.
All through the blooming season I stroll in the dusk and remove diseased leaves, and deadhead the remontant roses as soon as the petals fall, so they will rebloom quickly.

Luxrosa.

Another important thing is to buy good roses from good vendors. Avoid the $5 body bags. They are tempting, but a waste of resources, especially time and space.

Be patient and buy own roots that may take a few years to get to the size/shape you want.

Are you sure you wanna know? Alright here is it is - the "madness" of the modern rosarian.

February - on a day where the minium low is above freezing clean fallen leaves from the rose beds. Yes, every single leaf. These harbor rose diseases and should be promptly removed throughout the growing season. Spray roses with lime sulphur. This kills any lingering fungal infections from the previous year.

March - spray with Daconil (Cholorthalonil) to form a protective barrier against the black spot spore (my biggest rose problem).

March - repair rose wells (rings of compacted earth around the base of each rose - designed to hold in water)

Mid March - lay down alfalfa meal (Mills Magic Mix), making sure to scratch the mix into the soil, then water thoroughly.

Late March - lay down compost - about an inch to two inches thick.

April - first week - spray with mancozeb (a fungicide that directly kills black spot). After that spray fungicide at 3 week cycles. If black spot gets out of control spray on Monday-Wednesday-Friday (early morning only and for heavens sake water first before spraying). This completely knocks out the black spot and gets the roses back on track.

Late April/Early May - disbud cutting roses for one bloom per stem. Remove central bud on landscape specimens and climbers. Do this as the roses come into and out of flush (I only grow repeaters).

Late May/Eary June - deadhead spent blooms from the first orgasmic flush to promote rebloom.

Weed weekly - I'm a cottage gardener and use a lot of companion plants. This means no mulch so I have to keep up on the weeds.

Water weekly if it doesn't rain, a whole bucket per rose. Right now I do this by hand. When I get up to fifty roses I'm putting in a drip irrigation system.

Frequently cut flowers for the indoors. There isn't anything like a lovely vase full of roses to keep you on schedule with the routine "maintenance".

Fertilize as needed (no more than once a month) with Miracle Grow Rose Food. Now some of the rosarians on this forum are probably cringing at this statement but the stuff really works as a quick pick-me-up for tired looking roses.

Late June/early July - spray with Bayer Advanced Garden Rose & Flower Insect Killer. Keeps the G*&^((&^^%$#@#@ Japanese Beetles off my flowers. Spray weekly after that until the beetles leave.

July - put down Rosetone granular fertilizer. I figure by this time the compost and MMM is wearing off so if I want flowers all summer had better bump up the nourishment.

In July/August if the leaves are looking cooked I up the watering and spray with Wilt Proof (as directed).

Buy your fungicides, insecticides and fertilizers in bulk. Trust me - you WILL use them. LOL!

Invest in proper safety equipment - pesticide respirator, latex gloves, tyvek coveralls, and goggles (okay to be honest I don't have the googles - they cause my glasses to steam up). Unfortunately, this "getup" tends to frighten the neighbors so I'm trying to do all my spraying at 4AM. So far I haven't been able to adjust to that schedule so the neighbors still think I'm trying to destroy the environment. Oh well, they can just bite me.

Walk through the garden daily (weather permitting). Very good for your mental well being and you are more likely to see any problems that need prompt attention. I mean really - why do all the work if you are not going to enjoy the roses?

Pruning - I do this early in the season before the roses have budded out. Since I grow primarily Austins and OGRs, I don't hard prune. Instead I remove dead wood and prune to shape. Afterward I prune frequently throughout the season as I cut the flowers. Again just to keep the plant nice and attractive, but no harsh cuts (you really got to develop an artistic "eye" for this - takes time but worth the patience).

WHEW! Makes me tired just looking at it. Well I gotta go, the roses need my loving care.

:) Patrick

Mine is pretty simple.

1 Take time to decide if it a rose you really want. Besides looks, will it thrive and hopefully be disease resistant? If it is a disease magnet get rid of it.

2 Dig a big hole, take out the worst soil(1/3 or so,) and add lots of amendments. Cover the ground with lots of mulch.

3 The first couple years tend to them more with water and fertilizer, fish emulsion and rose tone.
Once they are established shrubs, I don't fertilize much especially the very vigorous growers. If a rose does seem to be slowing down, I pull back the mulch and add compost/manure.

4 Every year spring prune when the forsythia are in bloom. For some roses this is just cutting out dead wood or crossed canes.

5 Spray with insecticidal soap for aphids in late May if they get out of control.

6 Prune canes throughout the growing season that get out of bounds etc.

That's pretty much it,
Remy

I'm a minimalist, and the jury is still out as to whether my methods will work to make great roses, as I started my garden in fall 2002. I've lost very few plants, and my roses get bigger and bigger and have their seasons of beauty and flower. Currently I have about three hundred roses, two hundred varieties, mostly old roses, older classes, English roses, Wichurana ramblers, some species and hybrids. This is zone 8 more or less, alkaline clay soil.

I dig the biggest hole I can make myself do, amend the soil with hay, compost, forest mulch, sand, peat: anything I can find. Plant and water the rose, mulch it with hay (good except that it seeds grass). Water the first year when it's dry, and afterward if it hasn't rained for weeks and the ground is really dry. Keep a constant thick (4"-6") hay mulch on the bed. Weed, weed, weed. Prune any roses that need it during the winter before growth begins; prune again after the spring bloom as needed; prune out old, weak, twiggy growth throughout the year.

That's about it.

Melissa

Is anyone who participated in this discussion 16 years ago still here?