Fall is typically a time when lots of plants - but not all - go through an intensive period of root growth, so planting at this time of year is very successful - the roots expand and establish now while soil temperatures remain somewhat warm and one gets a head start on spring. Warm season grasses, like the Imperata, have the natural habit of going root dormant late summer into fall. They stop putting out root growth and so planting or transplanting them at this time of year is a risk, certainly in colder climates. Since they are already seasonally established in their nursery containers, it may be best to sink them pots and all into the ground. That way they are assured of getting necessary moisture yet are not at risk for freeze/thaw issues or root disturbance now when they are not able to adjust to it.

It depends a lot on one's climate but a very general rule of thumb is to plant cool season grasses in fall or early spring and warm season grasses in midspring to summer.

gardengal, how do you know which are cool or warm season grasses? I never knew there was a difference until you responded to my post back in the spring. Is there a list that's easy to access?

If you know the genus, most resources will state whether it is a warm or cool season grass. Bluestem Nursery is a good online source for this, but I find a good reference book - like Darke's Encyclopedia of Ornamental Grasses - invaluable. Their listings are much more extensive.

A very generalized rule of thumb is that most evergreen or semi-evergreen grasses (carex, oat grass, blue fescues, juncus, cortaderia, deschampsia) will be cool season grasses, doing the bulk of their growing in early spring or fall. And most deciduous grasses tend to be warm season growers. There are of course exceptions :-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Bluestem Nursery

When I pick up a sale pots of grasses in the fall they get planted in the pot in the ground until the next spring. The roots are well established in the pot and the plant does not need to be overwintered in the garage.

mnwsgal, I just bought a lot a few weeks ago not realizing they shouldn't be planted now. I have never had grasses before. I've been debating what to do. Getting them on sale will be pointless if they don't make it!

You're a zone colder than me. You just sink the whole pot in the ground? Do you cut the tops back or do something to protect the top? Thanks!

I sink the whole pot in the ground then add mulch. I don't cut the tops back as they help to keep the snow cover and add winter interest. If the grass is hardy to your zone it should survive the winter in the pot in the ground. I even have some that have been in the same pot for two years...need to get that bed finished this fall so I can plant them next spring.

Hi, folks!
I have some aconitum fisherii in an amended clay bed where they get (unfortunately) about 2 hours of midday sun; the rest is dappled They struggle, of course, since they need more sun but are SO beautiful!

What do you all think of putting those new polymer crystals in the soil to keep the plants consistently moist? They do tend to dry out even though I am up on my watering. Anyone used these crystals? They are supposed to draw the water to roots of the plants on a consistent basis.

I have not used the crystals in a garden bed, but only for potted plants like hibiscus and hanging baskets that tend to dry out much faster than the garden. I did notice less or no wilting after transplanting everything to pots with the crystals. I would say it gave me one additional day to go without watering. I was able to compare against baskets bought already planted to see the difference. I travel out of town on business in the summer and this way my husband would only have to water once while I was gone. (I have a LOT of pots and baskets). My actual garden retains TOO much water.

You would have to completely dig out your plant to do this, mix the crystals into a fairly large area, and even then surrounding soil and plants, if just as dry, would suck out the moisture. But who knows, maybe it would be just enough. If you donÂt mind the labor, maybe it would pay off.

Thanks for the info - I'll sink the pots in the vegetable garden until spring.

I've used the soil crystals in the ground many times, and they work well. Just be careful not to use too much or they bubble up (I don't know how else to put it....) to the surface and you'll get gobs of gel at the soil surface. Um....yea....I've done it LOL!! It's easily remedied, though, if it happens.

Anyway, the soil crystals worked beautifully to get a planting of hydrangea established under a maple tree, and I've also used them for assorted moisture-loving perennials when I'm not sure if the soil will be moist enough.

Gardengal, thank you for the info and the link. It was very interesting! I do so appreciate your generous sharing of your knowledge.

Thanks, mxk3 and linnea56! I'm going to save this info for next spring! Perhaps NEXT year will be the year my monkshood will just flourish!