I've always heard to leave about a foot diameter away from the trunks of trees/shrubs. Probably at least the same for foundations.
2-3" depth is the general recommendation.

Some natives resent the use of mulch, preferring just bare mineral soil.

wanda

From my "Basic Gardening Principles" class:

MULCHING

Definition: Can be any material applied to the SURFACE of the soil (noun) Or the act of doing such (verb)

A "GOOD" mulch should have two basic properties:

It should be light and open enough to permit the passage of water and air, while at the same time it should be heavy/thick enough to inhibit or even to choke off the growth of weeds

Uses:

1. To suppress weeds:
Sunlight deprivation
(PLUS possible heat and allelopathic effects)
4"-6" applications
(reapply, refresh approx. every three months.)

and make it easier to remove any that do grow

2. For moisture control -- water conservation:

2"-3" (up to 6"-7") applications
(reapply, refresh approx. every three months)

3. As a nutrient source:

As a "top dressing"

Apply LIGHTLY
Material source effects quality

Mulch will break down to compost

4. Regulate soil temperature

5. Erosion control

6. To prevent crusting of the soil surface and prevent subsurface compaction for vegetable and other working gardens

7. To keep mud from splashing onto foliage, flowers, and house walls

8. To keep vegetables and ground fruits clean

9. To keep feet clean allowing easy access to what could be muddy parts of the garden

Organic mulches:

"commercially" acceptable (aesthetic) --

shredded bark mulch
hardwood and softwood (conifer) bark
"nuggets"
pine needles
shredded leaves
cocoa bean hulls
crushed walnut (or other nut) shells
chipped wood products (and mixes)

uniform in size, minimum ½" in diameter

Then there isÂ

home garden style --

grass clippings
straw
sawdust
newspapers

Inorganic mulches:

Pebbles, pea gravel

lava stone

pulverized rubber

AND ESPECIALLYÂ

geotextile fabrics, polyethylene sheeting = LANDSCAPE FABRIC
(these do NOT work in the long run and actually lead to a worsened weed problem)

APPLICATION (AND SOME GENERAL NOTES)

-- Before applying a mulch, remove as many existing weeds as possible (spray or "shave"; do not pull).

-- Soil should be loose, warm and damp (not soaking wet) before mulch is added.

-- Apply about a 3 to 6 inch layer of organic mulch.

-- For shallow-rooted species and/or plants in poorly drained soils, avoid mulching more deeply than about 2 to 3 inches.

-- With perpetually wet soils, which need as much oxygen as possible, it may be wiser to control weeds other ways and avoid mulches altogether.

-- During the growing season, some weeds and grasses might try to take hold in the mulch. Pull them while they are young. You will find that as time goes along, you will have fewer weeds and they will be easier to pull.

-- Coarser textured mulches (such as large "nuggets") can be applied relatively thickly.

finer, more compactable, "double-shredded" mulches are good at a 2-inch layer.

-- Do not place mulch directly over or against the crowns or stems of plants, particularly young plants.

Allow at least 2 to 6 inches from plant crown to mulch for small plants and 8 to 12 inches away from the trunks of mature trees (including fruit trees).

-- Mulch out to a mature tree's dripline (if possible) and add only enough mulch every 2 to 3 years to maintain the desired depth.

When planting young trees and shrubs, mulch ideally should extend 12 inches beyond the periphery of the root ball to promote faster root growth into the surrounding soil.

Extend the radius of the mulch 12 to 24 inches each year until the tree or shrub's root system becomes re-established.

-- After a year or so you will need to add more mulch. Mulch decomposes.

Measure first -- so you know how much to apply.

Do not pile on more simply to "freshen" the appearance -- Simply raking alone often does the job.

Keep in mind that mulching is a working concept. ItÂs useful for temporary covers, in vegetable gardens and orchards, as well as on newly planted slopes.

"Mulching" is not a design concept. A landscape should be designed with adequate hardscape and should be planted fully so that every square inch of soil is covered with something besides mulch. Look hard at groundcovers.

Joe

Thanks...very helpful.

Some further questions:
1. Groundcover as mulch... I did try Red Apple...hated it...I couldn't keep the grass and weeds out...when I weeded, the red apple looked "worked over", by the time it looked good it was full of grass again. My lawn is Bermuda grass and I couldn't keep it out of the red apple... Maybe Red Apple was the problem (it is gone now!)... perhaps another ground cover would be better? I do have to keep pulling the bermuda grass out of my other beds too...it seems to be VERY persistant! Any suggestions for better groundcovers as mulch? I am planting my beds pretty full, so that might help too.

Keeping mulch away from perennials: I just planted various Salvias, Coral Bells, Penestemon. I mulched them, but its it reallynecessary to keep the mulch away from their stems...That seems difficult! Sounds like I will be making some corrections tomorrow.

Why not "Pull Weeds" before applying mulch. I don't use herbicides. Is it because they might break and spread? Then once the much is applied and they sneak up... do they get pulled then or do I move the mulch away and "Shave it".

Boy, I am realizing that the more I learn the less I know!

Thanks again, Wanda and Joe.