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ken_adrian

when to graft

i have 25 picea pungens in one gal pots ... nearly completely buried in the snow right now.. planning ahead here ...

how do i know when i could graft onto these ...

i know the roots have to be active.. and the sap flowing..

could i make an incision a couple inches above the place i want to graft.. and once it starts bleeding/weeping... know that the plant is active enough to callous???

no polyhut .. just winging it here ...

any other ideas ???

ken

Comments (8)

  • 17 years ago

    You can leave them outside and 1 or 2 weeks before bud brake is when they can be grafted. You can either use the paraffin wax mixed with about 10% bees wax or use the paraffin tape.

    Dave

  • 17 years ago

    I knew a Japanese Maple grafter who had his seedling maples in an unheated cold frame. When they started to bud out in the Spring weeks before the scion material outside, he started grafting. He then put the grafted plants in his cold frame and unheated greenhouse. The scion would then leaf out as the graft healed with the rootstock up and running. He explained that he didn't want the scion drawing more moisture from the rootstock than the young graft could handle and that was a reason for failed grafts in cases where the understock and scion were on the same schedule. I think the same principles would apply to conifers.

    I'm no expert, having never done a graft in my life, but thought this might be useful.

  • 17 years ago

    Ken,

    You probably have to cut your wood in early and keep it in wrapped in fridge if you are waiting for mother nature to get the understock going. I'm sure your wife will love that. Mine gets especially "excited" when I fill up the crisper. If your scions start "moving" they likely won't take. So you have to keep them dormant.

    Also the wax is good but where you live, you know the weather in spring- one day 15F next day 58F and back down to 32 again. Really, really hard on those scions when outdoors. They need high humidity and more less constant temps for best success. Grafting deciduous stock is much easier and forgiving outside than conifers.

    Darren

  • 17 years ago

    I take all of my conifers cuttings in late November.
    I start grafting right then. I only use wax on non-conifers. I use rubber strips, wider than a typical rubber-band, it is easy to acquire from Leonard. Tie them very tight and in a knot. I leave all of the grafts in a unheated cold frame.
    When I am doing non-conifers (like fagus) I use grafting wax, and I coat the scion I am grafting. Only the fagus, I have over 90% success rate. On the conifers, it is about 65%. I am still learning what root stocks work best.
    Steven

  • 17 years ago

    Ken do a search for Dax's instructions on grafting - He has one version that is written and a video on You Tube that is very good.
    Now is the time to graft.
    Scion wood should he cut when temps are above 40 degrees. They canbe keep for a few weeks wrapped in a moist towel in a baggie in th frig.
    However you need to get the rootsock inside( ususlly do this before you cut the scion wood) . When you bring the rootstock inside - around 60 degrees - the roots will start to grow. When the root tips start to grow ( white growth) that is when you can graft. Dax has a very good video - much more detailed, check it out. Mike

  • 17 years ago

    i have taken the grafting class at the tree farm twice.. i know how to do the graft ...

    the issue is timing .. and.. without a greenhouse ...

    wifey wouldnt care about scion in the crisper ... can you be a bit more specific by what you mean about wrapping it??? .. do we want it wet ... or just barely damp ... etc ....

    of the 25 pots ... i bet only about 3 are thick enough for grafting.. looks like the rest will have to slug out another summer... any ideas on how much fert in a one gallon pot .. to thicken trunks ... i think i still have some osmacote around ... general balance formula

    ken

  • 17 years ago

    Bring rootsock inside so that the roots are growing. When you see about 1/2" white growth then they are ready.
    I take my scion wood when the temps are above freezing.
    I usually do this in Feb. You can start earlier Dec, Jan, but as you get closer to March the window closes.
    The reason I suggested Dax's instructions was because he spells this out in detail. Much better than I.

    Also If I need to take scion wood early - weeks before you graft then I will wrap in moist paper towel and place in a zip bag in the frig.

    I use grafting rubbers and then rap again with clear flexible grape grafters tape. I have also used wax, see above for type - I heat in an old crock pot and use a paint brush to apply. I am not sure of the temp of the melted wax, but you can get it too hot and may cause damage to the graft.
    I have gotten lucky and have many sucessful grafts. Each year I take a grafting class at Nancy Vermuelen's Nursery and always learn something new
    Good luck

  • 17 years ago

    Just use that tape Ken. Add air to white kitchen garbage bags/clear bags, and toss in the bottom a wadded up chunk of wet paper towel about the size of a golfball. Throw a bamboo pole in the pot and place the bag so the bottom of the bag is under the plant and then blow as much air into your bags as possible and tie them off at the top. Keep it in your house next to the sunniest location you have and wish for the best. Exchange the air with fresh every so often.

    I can't think of anything else you could do without the proper materials being used. Your understocks should be ready in two weeks or three. Store your scions now. The grafting window ends March1 for the most part because your callous time will take 6-8 weeks and by then, you're balancing keeping up with nature. That window starts disappearing fast in other words.

    Dax

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