Rob, I think the kind of lavender you're refering to isn't hardy in zone 5. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong) I tried to grow that one last year, and it was real slow to get going for me, and the germination wasn't that great. I brought the few small pants I had inside to over winter. I have used other lavender, English I believe, but you need quite a bit of it to stand out in a bouquet, and the stems aren't real long. I do love lavender though, and will always grow it for myself. This year I'm going to try talking cuttings off my established plants to get more going, since I don't do well with starting it from seed.
Cheryl

Spanish Eyes, L. multifida lacks an important feature and one of the reasons to grow lavender -- the scent. It's hardy only in zones 9-11. We've grown it as a filler because it germinates well, blooms the first year from seed, and is eight weeks sow to bloom. As with alot of these tender perennials, we treated it as an annual.

For a hardy lavender, we grow a cultivar called "Grosso.

For cut flowers you might also grow Provinence (??sorry I can't spell). It has very long stems and a nice scent, is hardy in zone 5. I do not believe you can grow it from seed, you need cuttings to propagate. If you are trying to grow lavender from seed, refrigerate the seeds for a few months first to improve germination.

Thank you all for the specific suggestions!!! I think I'll start with some plants of Grosso or Provence. I had no idea multifida had no scent.

According to Mike Madison, you're going to want to grow both Grosso and Provence. He grows Grosso as his main lavender crop that he harvests in June and again in September. He fills in the summer months with the taller, paler Provence. Both cultivars are hardy here in the Midwest.

We haven't grown Provence; however, we now plan to call our vendor and have it added to our order for this season. We order these in as cuttings. Rooted cuttings set out in the spring will flower the first summer.

Trish

"Grosso" and "Provence" are both lavandins -- sterile hybrids of L. angustifolia ("English lavender") and L. latifolia ("Dutch Lavender). Both have long stems, but for bouquets, "Grosso" is the better choice. It has dark blue-purple flowers that hold to the stem well, even when dried. It has a deep scent. "Provence" is good for potpourri and lavender wands, with a nice scent (somewhat "higher' than Grosso). The flowers are light colored and easy to strip from the stem when dried.

"English" lavender can be raised from seed, and if the seed has a varied genetic background you will get some plants with stems almost as long as lavandins. Good lavender seed normally doesn't require stratification (although it isn't hurt by it) but should be surface sown (pressed firmly into the surface of the growing media) and kept damp until germination, which requires at least room light. It will take a couple years to get a good sized plant. One English lavender with long stems and a good scent and color is "Twickle Purple." Richters, along with many other sources, offers plugs.

We mainly grow lavender for dried wreaths, bunches and sachets, pillows, etc., but we do some straight grower'd bunches of fresh English lavender each year to accomodate a garden center that features our dried arrangements and wreaths. Especially when you pick for the fresh market, select stems that have no faded calices on them, and just 1-2 open ones.

Thanks to everyone for the good info on lavender. I don't know why I have such a hard time starting it, but I do. About the only way I seem to get any germination is by putting the seed between 2 wet paper towels, and keeping it moist. Even then, it's maybe 30-40%.
Cheryl

Hey Fundayfarm,

I have about an acre of lavender. I grow Lavidin and English. I also grow white and pink and have about 20 var.

I know nothing about spanish lavender or growing from seed. I purchase all my plants from a grower. Also I'm in zone 8 and a mediterrain climate which is just right for lavender. I would listen to Neil allen who has a zone like urs for growing tips.

That being said here are my tips. I have a great grower that I get my plants from. Champion acres in oregon u can do a web seach for them they are first rate. I have used or 5 nursey for plants and have been burned by most. Nathain is a straight shooter.

As for the lavadins I like them BUT they only bloom once a year. Long stems yes but I combine my fresh so I cut down the stems. I love the contrast in purples.

I was not a fan of english at first but now I love it. It blooms twice a year and the color is alot more darker for me. The stems are not as long but so what.

This is what I would do is try a bunch of different ones. I HATED TO DO THIS but I have found some great plants this way. Everyone told me provence and grosso when I started and yes I have about 100-150 plus of them but they are no big deal to me. Now also I don't grow grosso for oil, it is a big oil producer.

Some of the plants I grow.

Grosso, provence, white spike, seal, seal 7, betty blue, nana, royal purple, royal velvet, blanc kathy, hidcote giant, mallette and a bunch more.

I say put some in the ground and go for it. How many plants are you thinking about growing?

Tim