Well, Question - how do you know what the temp is?? Maybe it will cook the roots??!!! I tried a heat pad under blankets, and it still cooked the roots. I am still angling to figure out installing the radiant flooring heat under my prime seed sowing area, and using the growing gel, without going bankrupt from the cost.

Other than that: I reuse the plastics and domes from cooked chickens, organic salads et al. at the grocery store. They are the perfect size to load with a small amount of seed on the warm mat, and add a few more.

Nancy.

I've got an old oven thermometer I can stick in the soil to check it. The kind used to cook a roast. It's rusty so it's great for this. The rope light gives off the same amount of heat as a 60 watt light bulb, same wattage listed on the package. Most newer rope lights are even lower wattage. More sand means more heat distribution and fewer hot spots.

I used the rope lights all winter to keep my cuttings warm and happy.

Token.
Patience,consistency and work. That is what I did. Reading your post reminded me of myself.
I do not do seeds unless the annuals are reseeders, ie...Larkspur, Nigela, poppies and salvia. And they come up where the may. It makes the garden change every year. Roses, are the work in the garden. I do spray. (a big no no in some circles).
Nothing in the garden is watered except the roses.

Patience is the one thing I lack. In fact, I think I owe a little right now.

I'm fessing up too. My gardening really turned around when I bought these 2 germinators over 10 years ago. I thought $20/ea was high at the time, but 10 years later they've saved me $$! I start flowers and vegs I used to buy as plants. And since I'm not limited to what nurseries think people will buy, I can choose seeds from everywhere! Yep, these are the heart of my 'secret basement garden lab' wooohaha.

Kris

styrofoam containers with inset of seed tray and cells (84 cells) and clear cover to keep in moisture.
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inside a 15-watt light bulb provides heat
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a cover over the light prevents any moisture from dripping onto the bulb
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$20? That's awesome. I had toyed with the idea of a lightbulb, but I didn't want to build anything. Yard sale find or did you buy them from a store?

I buy 50lb bags of alfalfa pellets at a local feed store and use these to fertilize in the spring. They cost about $8/bag. I sprinkle the pellets on the soil surface and water them in. They expand and then break down. Similar bagged stuff from the nursery is expensive. There are two types of pellets though and one type is better than the other.--The guys at the feed store know which is best. I also learned I'm not the only person who does this.

I also called a tree company and had them deliver free chippings (mulch). I use the chips as mulch and to add to my compost pile

I've been making my own soil for raised beds and so far, it's turned out very well. (Because I don't have a truck, I'd have to buy bagged soil, which is $7.00/bag, and I need 27 bags for a 6' x 6' bed. This means I would pay $189. Or I'd have to have it delivered and pay a delivery fee. I've made one bed for $15.00 and another for about $40.00. (The cost varies depending upon how lazy I am).

With a few exceptions, I've learned you can't change your soil from alkaline to acidic or vice versa on a permanent basis. I've seen a lot of people try, spend gobs of $$$ on it, and not be successful. I don't think it's worth it.

I don't think it can be emphasized enough to pay attention to the kinds of plants you buy. Just because something has a "pretty face" and grows in zone 8b, or even in Austin, doesn't mean it will grow in my location. I have extremely shallow alkaline soil, and it's very hot and humid here. I'm sure others have similar problems--too acidic, too humid, or too rocky, etc.

Example - I just learned that musks and rugosas hate alkaline soils. This is why one of my roses has been yellow for the last 8 years despite tons of extra attention. I didn't know that when I purchased it, so it is important to know whether the plant you're buying is good for your area. This comes from talking to other gardeners in your area and doing some research.--Don't just rely on nursery personnel's recommendations.

I have a dear friend who owns a plant nursery. She tries hard to provide good info. and quality plants, but she's only been in the business 5 years so she makes mistakes. She bought grapes that won't do well in this area. She sometimes buys plants that grow in zone 10 or that like acid soil. It's a learning experience for her too. Do your own research.

Finally, plants I like but who don't like my soil, I may pot up. I don't want to deprive myself completely. I've done this with day lilies, a flowering quince, a brugmansia and a wooly butterfly bush. There are ways to get around having difficult growing conditions. I place these plants in their pots in the areas of the garden where I'd normally plant them in the ground. This makes them taller, and the pots add interest.

Token... - Home Depot. Never saw them since.
Also, there are drainage holes in the bottom of the styrofoam in case any leakage from the tray. When these things finally bite the dust, I was going to try and use the 'innards' in some cheap foam coolers. (Hmmm, I should try and make some NOW and start using them soon. 128 cells just doesn't cut it anymore! ;-) )
And 15 watts is plenty warm enough - and easy on the electric bill. ;-)
Kris

I buy 50lb bags of alfalfa pellets at a local feed store and use these to fertilize in the spring. They cost about $8/bag. I sprinkle the pellets on the soil surface and water them in. They expand and then break down. Similar bagged stuff from the nursery is expensive. There are two types of pellets though and one type is better than the other.--The guys at the feed store know which is best. I also learned I'm not the only person who does this.

I also called a tree company and had them deliver free chippings (mulch). I use the chips as mulch and to add to my compost pile

Ok, what are these alfalfa pellets? Do feed/seed stores sell them? I'm trying to eliminate my reliance on any chemical fertilizer using a variation of lasagna gardening and Ruth Stout's methods. I need some nitrogen and was thinking of planting alfalfa soon, but I'd rather use something like this if I can find it nearby.

And these tree companies, how large of a load do you get and what do you ask for when you call? I can get free wood chippings from the landfill, but it's not the best looking stuff. And do you have to worry about new chippings leeching nitrogen from the soil?

Thanks.

My soil is acidic. I'm not going to try to change that except where I plant my tomatoes. I've been using wood ashes in some areas as a lime source. I only sprinkle a little in these areas and allow the rain to work it into the layers I've already created before adding more. Too much can be a bigger problem than not enough especially with wood ashes.

Kiddo, Check your local stores for after Christmas markdowns. Those candles that go in your windows hold a 7-1/2 watt bulb, that's a C-7. Two of those gives you 15 watts and could be cheaper and easier to work with in a tall styrofoam cooler than trying to put a lamp socket in there. :)

Token.... WOW! GREAT idea. And I don't need to go to the store, just the attic! ;-)
Kris

You might need to replace the bulb with a regular night light bulb for 7 watts, but most strands are already 7 watt bulbs. That's why they're so expensive to operate.

Alfalfa meal is a good source of nitrogen for plants and in the nurseries, it's sold bagged as either as alfalfa meal or it's a main component of soil additives sold as organic fertilizers or soil conditioners. I think alfafa pellets are one of the reasons bunny poop is so good for the garden.

When I called the tree company for mulch, I said, "I'm a gardener and could really use some mulch. If you ever have chipped up trees you want to get rid of, I'd sure love some." At least in my area, this saves the tree companies money because they don't have to pay to take it to the landfill.

It saves me time and money, because I don't have to go pick it up or pay for it, and I can get it in bulk. I've also had a neighbor give me their chipped up cedar trees they wanted to get rid of, and we had mulch for an entire year.

I wouldn't put freshly chipped tree mulch on veggie beds, but I think it's fine for established ornamental plants.-- The freshly chipped trees may initially rob the soil of nitrogen, but eventually as the mulch breaks down, it gives it back plus adds other nutrients.

I'm using mine for established ornamentals, to make an informal walkway, to use in my compost pile, and eventually to mix with compost and mulch my mature trees.

Frankly, what you get and how much depends on the tree company. You don't want big stumps dumped in your yard along with the mulch so that's something to mention. The guy I called is the owner of a small local company, and he brings a pick-up load at a time. I could use a dump truck full, but that's me. :-) This summer, I mulched one 10 x 100 ft bed and two irregularly shaped 85 ft beds. The tree chips, so far, have been finely mulched but do contain some leaves.

The last load I received was made from a chipped magnolia tree, and it smelled wonderfully spicy.

I'll keep my eye out for the tree companies that come around. Most drop it off at the local landfill. I've seen them there. I'll ask one of the drivers if he can just drop it in my driveway. :)

I got clued in to alfalfa meal pellets over on the Composting forum. I don't use it in the gardens in lieu of topdressing with homemade compost, but I do broadcast it on the lawn in the spring and fall. It does wonders, and it's inexpensive at your local feed and grain store. Ask for alfalfa meal pellets and they'll know exactly what you're looking for.

This is a great thread. I've learned about alfalfa pellets to try. I don't use any fertilizers but I often mulch with manure.

When you are at you local feed store buying alfalfa pellets, also pick up a bag of corn gluten. I had heard about this on gardenweb, and gave it a try last year in my new peony beds. With a fresh coat of mulch, it worked well with just a few weeds. This year my peony beds had so many more weeds, and I was wondering why until I realized that despite a new layer of mulch, this year I had NOT used the cg. I'm now a believer! It was about $14 for a very big bag. Compare that to the chemical Preen and it's waaaay cheaper and also organic.

I also get woodchips from tree companies to use on my paths. From a tree trimming company I think they are too big to use as mulch, unless it is for trees or shrubs. They will not rob nitrogen from your soil if they are spread on the TOP. (If you mix it into the soil, then it will steal N) The best way to get woodchips is to stop and talk to them when they are working in your neighborhood. They would rather dump the chips locally than drive them somewhere else. But be sure you want them in a large quantity! (Sometimes I take over a box of donuts or fresh cookies and they are more than happy to give me woodchips.)

Also, I get manure from a local horsefarmer, many pickup truck fulls every year. It's my fertilizing mulch. I drive over in a pickup truck and he loads it with a skidster. His wife loves gardening, so I swap perennials for manure. I offered to pay him, but he says his wife would rather get the flowers. (She's smart when you consider the price at the nurseries!)

I have always been daunted by the idea of starting all those perennials from cuttings, but your setups look very doable. Maybe I will this year, but next year certainly!

Here is a link that might be useful: corn gluten FAQ on gardenweb

Would these alfalfa meal pellets be a good addition to the compost pile? Tom, someone here had a post about using rebar with wire tied on, shaped into a "Y" to use for stakes. Do any of you remember what the title of the post was? I haven't gotten my husband to make any yet, but I hope to.

I learned about invasive plants, like buttercups, mints, garlic chives (the worse, because even if you dig them out, they come back from any left root), obedient plant, certain kinds of yarrow, etc. the hard way. If there are some you really want to grow, find a way to contain them, like putting them in a pot, or an area where they can't go far.

Sue

I don't recall that post Sue. It's not in my vertical elements thread. Sorry.

Gotta, I have made several modifications to my original cloning machine already. I found out that 77 openings in a grid fashion made it difficult to stick the cuttings. So I rebuilt the top (after having remade the bottom to make it smaller and hold less water). This time, I only have space for 58 cuttings. Woe is me! LOL. And I staggered the holes so that each line has one less/more than the one before. I also made the holes a little smaller so I can use foam rollers from the dollar store to hold the cuttings. Once I get it all reassembled, I'm going to update the thread.

I just figure, if I'm going to have all these plants, I may as well make use of some technology to produce as many as I can. Plus, I'm hoping to have good germination with wintersown stuff. I want to have a plant sale in late April when I do my annual yard sale. I've got a bunch of reclaimed pallets too, so I'll be building some more things for outdoors like birdhouses if I have the time. Any money I make will of course be used to....buy more plants. I want to give the Wine and Roses Wigela another go. Mine died in the extreme heat we had right after I planted it. :(