I dislike comments that do not contribute to a friendly atmosphere. Let's try to avoid curt, sarcastic language and keep internet discourse civil, open and respectful.

One thing that isn't new is that posts on rust frequently provoke anger as if blaming the messenger is the issue. It seems some people want discussion of rust to go away. We people in the North have every right not to go through a spraying program, to buy plants that are infected, and to have to hope that winter kills the rust. There is a conflict of interest with people trying to not inform others about rust. Rust in large gardens in the deep South seems to be only controlled, almost never eliminated. Even new intros have it, which means it is spreading. If you would like to share a different perspective, please do. People have every right to have this information.

Rust is like the "orange elephant" in the room.

Therefore, I will repeat that agri. inspections only do a visual overview and are absolutely no guarantee about rust. If you disagree, please share your perspective.

Also, I think it's important to new folks to be aware of rust and for established hemers to share whatever they want about rust.

I do not want to deal with rust at all. I think zone 7 and perhaps 8 gardens can remain totally rust free without relying on winter. That's a model of daylily gardening I like. Others are willing to take more risks. I'm trying to avoid the late summer posts when people find out they have it. Why not avoid it in the first place?

Jake , I think the way you came across was as putting a label on all southern growers, that would be like me saying all northern growers grow puny fans because of a few I have gotten but I know that is not the case. I understand what you mean but it is not fair to say all southern growers and scare off people from buying. Maybe its just me and I did not read it correc, no offense anyone!
Jill

Jake , I think the way you came across was as putting a label on all southern growers, that would be like me saying all northern growers grow puny fans because of a few I have gotten but I know that is not the case. I understand what you mean but it is not fair to say all southern growers and scare off people from buying. Maybe its just me and I did not read it correc, no offense anyone!
Jill

Please keep in mind that even though you may not purchase any plants in a given year that that does not insulate you from the possibility of contracting rust. The first year I got it all my new plants were 8 miles away from the rest of them and never got rust. It had to have blew in from who knows where.

Janet

I find the whole situation kind of bizarre. Kind of like living with other people that have colds. Do you isolate yourself from them so you don't catch their cold? Isn't labeling everyone from the southern zones as rust prone kind of bigotry? And just how do you select for rust resistance if you don't have rust? So you shouldn't buy from anyone that is trying to strengthen the disease resistance of the plant, is that correct?

Daylily rust is common to the daylily now in North America and it would be good to educate people so they can decide what risks they are willing to take. The 'chicken little' approach serves no-one. Just because you got rust, doesn't mean everyone will.

One certainly can eliminate rust and control rust with the fungicides in use today. But honestly, not many people use them consistently enough, or correctly to do so. And I admit, they are not easy to find. It's pretty easy to eliminate rust on one plant, but gets exceeding tough when you're dealing with thousands.

I think you should make your own individual decision. If you are a causal gardener that just wants a daylily, then there is very little chance that rust is gong to affect you. If you get pleasure from collecting daylilies and trade plants and buy plants, then chances are you will have to deal with rust. People in zones 7 and north should be able to eliminate rust from their plants simply by exposing them to the winter cold.

Why not count your blessings!
Ed

I think i agree with Jill when i read the first posting to this subject, i was as a "southern gardener" offended and piturbed when i read them, and chose not to comment. I personally have rust, admitted it on several occasions, but i think xokientx said it best when he mentioned people with colds.

Rust is everywhere, it's a fungal disease spread by airborne spores, and if you watch the weather, you know that winds, and storms carry warm, moist air from the south up north and everywhere else. Mother nature will decide what happens.

But keep in mind i have been to several southern DL farms. In LA, TX, MISS, and elsewhere, most do have spraying programs in place, and i have even heard of some taking precations as far as making visitors wear bags on their feet and parkas to keep anything on their clothes and shoes out of their gardens........ (dont know if thats fact)

We have the luxury here to be able to type and EDIT what we say, even given the chance to REVIEW our posts before we post LOL, just read your words, and make sure its all in generalities.

Some DL peeps here in the south are trying to curtail rust with spraying and treating. Others are going the breeding route, and breeding less susceptible varieties together for "resistant" cultivars. I tried to keep track of my rust problems for the most part, which DLs would get it more, who it killed, and so on. I have a few seedlings and varieties that haven't gotten rust in the over 10yrs i have had them, some that i didnt have for 1-2 yrs because they were so susceptible.

The south is aware, and we are trying.
G

Perhaps it will come to my garden again, but I think I am doing what I need to so that I don't get it again. Time will tell. I did not insinuate that everyone in the south has it, I am just making it my policy not to purchase plants from parts of the country that it is commen in. Plants all must come in the fall now, I do not want to do battle with it again from May through the bloom season.

Yes I have rust in my garden. Yes, I spray. I keep a quarterly record (for my own use) of who has rust and how much. I ONLY trade with other people in this area who are on first name basis with rust postules. I don't sell because someone up north would have a fit if one of my plants developed rust up there. My garden is for my use only. The plants are well grown, well fed, well watered, but this isn't a display garden. Those plants that deserve the term "rust bucket" are eliminated, but that doesn't mean that others are totally clean.

I'm sorry I snapped and hurt your tender feelings, but not everyone in the south (however far north that reaches) is responsible for the problems experienced by others. You can run, but you can't hide--rust is on the loose.

hello--all--are we having FUN yet?---i have not been able because of health reasons, to be able to see all that is going on--i stated on a rust thread in october of 2006 about rust controls--more on that later----but to the gist of this controversity---rust is only classified by the USDA as a nusiance now--not a threat---daylily rust was in china some 50 years ago---now it is in the USA and in most of the lower 48 and in hawaii----RUST can infect hundreds of different plants[roses. carnations,oxalis,pines, citrus,wheat, oats,corn, lawn grases]---rusts were infecting ag crops, thousands of years ago, go ahead research it--and for the record these rusts are host specific[they will not attach the same species]==if you grow roses you must contol rust--i.e. same for daylilies---if everyone, before jumping down each other's throats, would just put-- daylily rust-- in a search and read all the reports---then decide what approach to use----all of the southern hybridizers have rust problems year round---many of the fancy new hybrids--have the 'rust genes' in their background and the rust will pop up when the conditions are right--so waiting to buy that 'special' plant after it goes to a northern grower--then thru a winter--is still going to get rust!!---we daylily lovers, like the hundreds of rose lovers just have to face the fact of learning to spray---or not!!

Plantdoctor, are you implying that rust winters over in the crown of a plant that has once had rust even in the north? If so that is not accurate.

I started out by saying, "there is a chance that you can bring rust into your gardens from plants from gardens in which winter did not kill it." That's prudent advice for people when buying, not "bigotry." My Gosh, what an outrageous claim!

Some people are saying, look, there's rust everywhere, just live with and others are saying not everyone in the South has it. Which is it? We are told don't paint all Southern gardens as rust infected, and others say everyone down there has it, everybody will get it, that's what daylilies are about. I think in zone 7, you CAN avoid it. I am trying to share ideas about that. My original post said nothing about all gardens in the South having rust.

People in the north have every right to voice their views about not getting rust. For us, it isn't endemic, and, furthermore, it is avoidable.

Certainly, isolated zone 8 or 9 gardens might not have it. I personally don't know of any, and almost 20 gardens have told me privately they have it.

Calling people bigots or using sarcastic language! Why? To show people they will pay a price for bringing up the topic or rust? Trying to keep everyone silent about rust? There's been way too much of that in the daylily world. People should be thankful that someone breaks the ice on this topic once in a while!

New hemers: make your own choices, but know the risks ahead of your purchases. Welcome to the friendly world of growing flowers....

I find this post so amusing at how this has likely turned into the civil war, lol, maybe im wrong for posting again, but who knows at this point..... Jake i didnt think you were necissarily attacking anyone, but the way it was worded in the begining of the post was that you and everyone else should beware of anything coming out of the "south", now really how could that not provoke certain issues from arising?

Most people do understand the dangers of the fungus, where it comes from and how it can and will affect your garden if its brought in. People new to DLs may not, as i didnt about 5 or so yrs back. Did my research and am now educated on it. Most of the studies and research that is being devoted to this disease is being done in Canada?, and Asia where it originated. Yes it was widespread in the U.S. in over i think 30 or so states, but ive read in posts on Happy Moose and other sites, that people have had it in as far north as Wisconsin and NewYork state gardens.... This problem isnt just in the south, and rust can OVERWINTER in even the coldest climates, if all of the infected foliage isnt removed and/or treated, and is in turn mulched heavily and seemilnly even protected by snow....... it will come back.

I also don't think this post was started to provoke anyone or start a fight, Southern growers who have programs in place to treat the disease are doing it properly i suspect, but we as consumers should also be taking precautions to treat incoming plants if we dont have problems, weather we know there is rust as a possibility or not. I dont think rust respects anyones zoning charts..... So even if you completely cut out the south you cannot garauntee not contracting rust into your garden...........

You have to just know what bugs, diseases, bacteria, fungus', pests, soil conditions, and temps you will be affected by, where-ever you live. But keep in mind these conditions change year to year......

Listed some sites below that have been around for a while respectively, but also update their information regularly.

www.daylilies.org/.../daylily_rust.html
plantclinic.cornell.edu/.../daylilyrust.htm
web.ncf.ca/ah748/rust.html
http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/04-089.htm

hi--jakejones--will you please explain how one (in your words] can AVOID it[rust] in zone 7--i am sure everyone would like info on that, especially those above that zone

Here are the facts from my garden in 2007. I purchased 1 plant from Texas, which was suposed to be shipped to me in mid April, the seller didn't send it until mid May, and when it arrived not only did it show signs of having had rust, but it had been dipped in some kind of sticky funguscide. There was NO warning about the funguscide, or the rust. The other infected plant came from Mississippi, and was purchased from someone that had to give up their daylilys for health reasons, it arrived mid April like it was supposed to and kept indoors for awhile because on April 15th we got 20 plus inches of snow. Rust erupted from BOTH plants planted at oppisite ends of the garden almost at the same time near the end of May. Rust had found my garden in 2005 and 2006, but didn't show up until mid August both years. In 2005 I am sure it came with some plants from Florida, and in 2006 I was never able to pin it down, but I received plants from 2 places in Florida, and one in Georgia. I know it did not come from Pennsylvania, New York,Indiana, Michigan, or here in Ohio. In 2005 and 2006, it was no big deal, the season was winding down, and it was isolated in new beds, that had all newly arrived plants. In 2007 I was faced with rust before the bloom season began. In an earlier post I told of my plans to sell off some plants I was no longer interested in, and reorganizing the garden. That couldn't happen, and I spent more hours spraying plants to either kill it and prevent its spread than I would have liked. I spent about $150.00 on fungucides, which worked to a point but like I said I thought I had it beat, and stopped spraying only to have it come back again. I did not produce as much seed as I normally would because I was afraid it would further stress the plants. Basically I did not enjoy the 2007 bloom season. I do not care to go through that again either, so I will not be buying plants from the south, if I can't find them up here I don't need them.

A comment was made about the small size of fans comng from northern gardens. I was at a hybridizers last spring that had received some plants to be shipped out of the country. He was cleaning them while we talked, and I commented on some of the biggest fans I had ever seen, they were from Florida, and I was told that it is all in the foliar fertilzers used beacuse they were grown in very sandy soil low in nutrients. The light went on, and I realized why those GIANT fans from Florida always got smaller and smaller here, and why my plants don't get any where near as large. It's a case of better living through chemistry I guess. I began spraying with fertilizers occasionally last summer and will continue on a regular basis this coming spring, since I have heavy clay in most of my beds, and it is also low in nutrients. I have atempted to amend it, but it is still not where I would like it.

Now, I have not told anyone to get a life, and I hope I have not offended anyone.

Thanks for the positive responses. As for the personal comments, that only makes me think people are trying to prevent the free flow of information about rust and that people have not learned internet etiquette.

My early posts have been misunderstood or perhaps mischaracterized. My first post didn't mention the "South" at all, and my second post mentioned BOTH northern AND southern gardens.

Being Rust-Free in zone 7 is easy. I buy seeds from the newest cultivars and plants from rust free gardens that don't spray. Basically, experience has taught me that there are no zone 8 or 9 gardens I can buy from. Check the auction or web for gardens in the north that don't spray or have exceptional quarantine procedures and don't bring in new plants from the South. For me, it's buy only from non-spraying, non-importing northern gardens. (I have nothing against the South. In fact, I buy most of my seeds from the South.)

Others might try quarantining. I know some that bring in southern plants, pot them up separately in a different area far away, inspect every day and also spray. If rust appears, they cut back that plant totally and discard the leaves (do not compost). When winter comes these plants are totally cut back and they should be rust free when they send out new growth. I don't do that, but I might buy from them in the future.

I don't buy a lot of new ones, yes. But I hybridize and buy from local hybridizers: Bud Bennet and Dale Thomas and from screek, penny and other rust free resellers on the auction. I buy Moldovan (RIP), Curt Hanson, Richard Norris.

I will also buy from local gardens that are rust free but have brought in new plants that year. I only do this if they are still rust free in late Aug/Sept. I remove the outer leaves and watch the plants. In Nov, I remove all leaves. I haven't had rust develop.

Based upon feedback, I would say that 2-5% of southern plants will develop rust in the mid-Atlantic area. That's not a terrible risk, but if you don't watch it, just one plant can infect 100% of your garden. Also, about 2-5% of local gardens get rust here. Winter has always killed it here in zone 7.

Zone 8--does rust over-winter easily and is rust more prevalent? I have never heard of rust developing in a zone 7 garden by the wind, but that might have happened. I have never seen rust at box-stores, but fear that as a source carried by insects or wind in this area.

In the North, we are blessed with rust not being a real issue (yet). But our season has little rebloom and plants multiply MUCH more slowly.

I am in zone 8b - Northwest Florida. Rust overwinters here. We have several nights every year with temps below freezing. But it doesn't seem to be enough to kill rust. Once every 20 or 30 years we have a severe winter...even a little snow. It kills all the tropical plants that I love to grow. But we haven't had one of those winters since I started growing daylilies. That type of winter might kill rust here...but I don't know for sure.

I have rust in my garden and have seen it on many daylilies in my area... including other yards, big box stores, supermarket parking lots and in gardens owned by professional growers. I have become very aware of rust and consciously hunt for it everywhere I go. In my opinion, it is quite common here. But often the rust is hard to spot...you have to get on your knees and look underneath the bottom most leaves. But sometimes it can be quite obvious - I have seen very rusty leaves from 5 feet away. And trust me...it's not pretty.

In my garden, the worst rust is in the Fall. This year I cut back every daylily in my garden in November...right before we had some freezing temps (I read about this technique here on the forum...I think Ed suggested it). I have cut back my daylilies before...after I see rust on them. But I have never cut every daylily in my yard, all at the same time. It was a lot of work and took several days. I want you to know, my gluteus maximus was screaming at me to stop...please stop.

I wrote down all the plants that had any rust. They included: Ed Brown, Wineberry Candy, Victorian Lace, Frank Smith, Canadian Border Patrol, Green Mystique, Primal Scream, Laughing Out Loud and about half of my seedlings. Then I sprayed all of the stubby fans with Physan...and the next week with Bayleton. I have not sprayed since. I decided to cut all my daylilies back for the second time this week. We are expecting more freezing temps. My evergreen daylilies were 6 - 12 inches tall and the dormants are just beginning to break ground. I did not see any rust this time. I am going to spray every week this month and then stop...until I see more rust. I am hoping that I will not see any rust this Spring and Summer. But I am sure I will see rust in the Fall.

For the record, I find all posts about rust helpful - the more the better. I believe the more we talk about rust, the more it is in the spotlight, the better chance we have of being heard. I want a daylily that is immune to rust. Or, at the very least, I want a cheap, safe fungicide that will kill rust. And if it's not too much to ask, I'd like to have it in my lifetime.

Kathy

Wow, I thought I might see someone having a fist fight before I got to the last post.

Since I am new to daylilies I have found this thread very interesting. I am an older lady and I'm not very good at using the computer. I would like to see several photos of the rust ya'll are talking about. By the way, you might notice I live in Zone 7B.

I have recently turned in orders for about 200 daylilies from several different sources on the LA. I've also purchased some seeds to grow. I need to know more about what I'm looking for and how to keep it in check or at the very least in control.

I planted about 100 daylilies last year. I have over 500 different named Tall Bearded Irises and I sure don't want to get something started that will harm them too.

Someone that knows how to post pictures please post a couple of daylilies with rust so I'll know what to look for.

I'm glad everyone ended up friends when I got down to the part to post a follow-up. I'm just glad to know that people care enough to enlighten some of us newcommers to the daylily world about rust.

Thanks and I look forward to reading more and seeing some photos.

May all of your gardens be filled with abundant blooms this year.
Happy Gardening, Marian

Hi Marian,

Click on the link below to see photos of Daylily Rust. Daylily rust only infects Daylilies and Patrinia, so you needn't worry about it infecting your irises.

Yes Kathy,
It was probably me that recommended the cut back. I would only recommend cutting all plants back once each year. The most important time to spray is immediately after cutting back. Weekly spraying for a month would probably be best. If the plant grows out and immediately becomes infected again: spray, isolate, cut back and spray every three days for a month, or throw the plant away. If you get rid of the very rusty plants, you will find rust much easier to manage.

Everyone should treat new arrivals as if they came from a rusty garden. Strip the two outer leaves off from each side of the crown. Cut the plant foliage off within 1/2 inch of the crown. Dip the plant into a 5 - 10% bleach solution before planting, or after planting, spray with a contact fungicide recommended for Daylily rust. This is essentially a procedure recommended by Pat Stamile. Keeping the plant isolated from the rest of your garden until you go through a cool, wet period (when rust is prone to show itself) would be a good idea.

The red orange spores you see on the outside of the foliage is like the flowers of daylilies blooming. Even though the rust is present, it only produces spores when conditions are right. Then the spores can infect new leaf tissue and the the rust spreads.

Here is a link that might be useful: AHS Rust Pages

For those of you with rust problems, ship your daylilies here to South Dakota for the winter. The rust will be dead along with all your evergreens, and most of your semi-evergreens. =) Just trying to lighten up a serious topic. Just remember there are always tradeoffs and I would love to grow some of those beautiful evergreens the Southern growers take for granted.

Here are a couple more web sites concerning daylily rust. The first is
http://www.ncf.ca/~ah748/rust.html
This site is primarily the work of Dr. Sue Bergeron who lives in Canada. She is a acknowledged expert in this field. This site has a dirtect link from the AHS site.

There is also a presentation by a couple of professors from the University of Georgia at
http://www.cyberlily.com/Rust/Jean_Daylily2.html

I suggest anyone dealing with rust read their recommendations.

As for myself, living in zone 8a not too far from Augusta, GA, rust is something that I must deal with if I want to grow daylilies. Typically I see it in the fall. I have been more agressive each of the last three years in spraying, and things have been successful unless a two week business trip or simply getting lax in when I should have sprayed has resulted in rust in September. Last year, only a few plants got it and they were all within 20 feet of one another. I stripped leaves and sprayed the new growth came back clean.

This coming year, I will spray and since I have recently retired, there should not be a business trip to get in the way, but I search the internet regularly to see if anything new has come available to fight rust. I'll let you know in November if I find anything that has seemed to provide a benefit.

Larry

hi again jakejones and others--hope we can all be friends here--BUT PLEASE-LISTEN---NEWBIES AND OLD 'PROS'--GO AND PUT ---DAYLILY RUST--IN YOUR FAVORITE SEARCH ENGINE--there is about 2 days of reading and photos of research; chemical use; university studies; list of daylilies most prone to rust and those that are least prone---if everyone is truly interested in being informed--DO THIS--BEFORE POSTING---then let's ask informative questions---i don't pretend to know all about rust---but i have read most of all the reports and have being directly involved in some of the university tests with chemical and research scientists......now to daniel--zone7--and others-if you would read the web page of cornell university and the web page of the onterio,canada study--you will see that daylily rust has been found to OVERWINTER ABOVE ZONE 7 .--just as riverratspaz also stated--and thank you for listing a couple of daylily rust sites to visit--but that is only a fraction of the info that is available ---i live in zone 8 GA,only about 25 miles from FL--i have seen rust here in GA in -gardens about 10 miles from me in dec 07and jan 08--sometimes our winters seem to 'kill' but really only surpress the rust---and yes i do sometimes have rust in my garden---and because i have been a 'test' garden since 2000 until now ,i did not spray the entire garden of some 1500 varieties----i also because of my chemical experience and background have ' set up ' some of the more famous hybidizers with spray programs to prevent rust and to 'cure' rust infected plants---some of our results show that definitely hurricane activity and the wind currants affect the spread of rust----MOST of the spread of all 'species' of rust--for agricultural crops and daylilies are spread from the storm activity or lack of from SOUTH AMERICA---therfore you would have to live and grow daylilies in a biosphere---not to eventually be 'infected' by just wind borne spores----this has been proven----also you can get rust from transfer of rust spores by insects, people, pets---and as we all know by plants sent to us from where ever not just the SOUTH--enough for now--happy to answer any questions---but i hate to type--and usually am only on computer, late at night--two to three days of the week--EVERYONE KEEP WARM AND GOD BLESS

Plantdoctor, you referred to two web sites and I don't see either stating that daylily rust has been found to overwinter above zone 7 without patrinia. To quote from the American Hemerocallis Society's FAQ it is "Unlikely to persist where all foliage dies back in winter (or roughly Zone 6 and colder) although may be able to do so where there are plants of the alternate host, patrinia".

Quoting from the AHS Daylily Dictionary "Reports from AHS members indicate that in North America daylily rust has successfully overwintered in USDA Hardiness Zone 7 and milder. At the current stage of our knowledge, it is safest to assume that if any daylily foliage remains green through the winter in an already infected garden, there is a possibility the rust could survive inside those leaves."

Quoting from the daylily rust information page "Daylily rust so far appears to have successfully overwintered in the warmer areas of the United States to USDA Zone 7. It apparently did not persist in all infected Zone 7 gardens however, therefore it is hoped that rust will not be a significant problem in colder zones unless, perhaps, it can utilize the alternate host, Patrinia, as it does in Asia."

Quoting again from the daylily rust information page "In an experiment where divisions were collected from a population of deciduous daylilies that had been heavily infected with rust, new growth that emerged in spring was free of infection. This indicated that the mycelium, or fungal threads, did not persist in the crown or resting buds and that urediospores (summer spores) on dead foliage from the previous year did not infect new growth."

I had daylily rust a few years ago and winter killed it. It has not been back.

At a club meeting last month, my husband overheard the FL hybridizers discussing the issue of rust overwintering in zone 6. He mentioned it to me, but I didn't ask any questions to get the details. I think Plantdoctor is on to something.

Don't forget that the leaves don't stay alive in the colder zones like they do in the south. Rust can't live where the leaves die without patrinia.

Well, remember, if there are reports of rust living in zone 6, that rust is surviving somehow. Can it survive on dead foliage? Apparently so, if it survives at all. The study that determined this will set rust expectations on its ear if it is true. We just have to remember that in nature, everything changes.

It COULD survive in zone 6 IF the winters aren't severe enough. IF the plant would be heavily mulched. IF the plant is grown in a micro climate like against the south wall of a house. IF the plant was grown in a cold frame or a greenhouse.

The best thing for a daylily in zone 6 is to eliminate mulch over the crown of the plant. To cut the foliage off in November so the foliage doesn't provide a natural mulch. To have our typical cold weather where the foliage melts, then a warm up to regrow some foliage followed by more severely cold weather to turn it to mush again.

Rust survives in Siberia.

Brooke

I'm cleaning out garden beds and finding a lot of green leaves in the everygreen daylilies. I've never had rust, but I think that, here in zone 7b or so, there might be a good chance that it could survive. This is based upon the living leaf tissue. We've had temps as low as 12-15, so maybe rust wouldn't have survived. But that means the EV hems can still have leaves at 12 degrees.

Of course, if I did have rust I would have removed all mulch, dead leaves, stalks, etc. and cut back living leaves.

It was great to see the green there, but I was concerned about what it might mean for rust survival over the winter.

Let's us Southerners think about this a bit:

Garden #1: 22 clumps of DIPS purchased from local grower in zone 8b; dumped in holes in mostly clay ground, among grass and weeds 4 years ago; planted along a gravel road, 8' apart at bottom of south-facing hill; in full sun; never watered, never fertilized, never sprayed; mulched maybe twice; mowed down occasionally by careless yard workers; each one planted in front of a south-facing fence post; stood in rainwater run-off for several weeks this spring. NEVER ONE SPECK OF RUST!

Garden #2: 26 red DLs purchased from Tranquil Lake Nursery and a few more from eBay; planted in early spring 2007; plants set anywhere from 12" to 3' apart in a new raised bed, 54' long, 3 feet wide, and 2 feet deep; south-facing bed alongside guest house on top of hill; in full sun all day; some DIPS and some TETS; some are dormants; watered and weeded when necessary; fertilized once with Osmocote; never sprayed; mulched with pine bark; DLs scattered among cannas, red hot pokers, Italian cypress, red-tip photinia, climbing roses, and hibiscus companion plants; in late fall, cannas were dripping in rust; NOT ONE SPECK OF RUST ON THESE DLS!

Garden #3: 106 named DL cultivars planted in June/July 2007; set in a new raised bed 70' long, 3' wide and about 18' deep; DIPS and TETS; one or two dormants; tended carefully; no weeds allowed; bed faces east, alongside ranch house; lots of shade; fertilized often; watered when needed; never sprayed; mulched with pine bark; NOT ONE SPECK OF RUST ON THESE DLs!

Garden #4: About 500 DLs planted in July/August/September 2007; DIPS and TETS; in full sun at bottom of north-facing hill; munched on by deer or rabbits; tended carefully; fertilized often; weeded daily; this is a new "field bed" three rows wide and very long; formerly forest land until a few years ago; shade cloth erected during 100+ degree August weather; seedlings planted in September. When fall arrived and nights turned cool, plants were heavy with dew in the morning. ONE DL was discovered dripping in RUST! It was cut back severely and sprayed for rust several times. (It was purchased from a rust-free, semi-arid zone.) Cornmeal was spread over ground (experimental). One other possible infected plant this spring.

Could environnmental factors be involved? Any questions?

Nancy

Anyone saying ANYTHING positve about rust is lying. It is totally uncurable, and gardens are being chemically saturated because of it.

The direct negatives are indisputable and then the plants are weakened by all the attempts to hide it. There is no such thing as controlling it...only hiding it which is totally deceptive if you sell plants.

Add the inbreeding using plants inbred to begin with, then also add many different chemicals, and then add the human trait which can onlt be described as deception...well, like I said...lies are coming from those who say anything postive about rust.

If you want to make a blanket statement about people selling daylilies in the south...shame on you fits nicely. Modern society dictates that we have no integrity. If you try to do anything better you will get attacked.

Truth doesn't exist in the daylily world.

By the way, rust is not a negative at all. It is the best thing that has happened for daylilies. Bad thing for humans. All it has done is expose the many decades of abuse and deception perpetrated by daylily deceivers.

If you wish to reply to my comments, just for your information, words mean nothing to me. People lie...plain and simple. Actions tell the truth.

If a southern seller wants to have integrity, sacrifice some profit and move north...or donate your entire garden to a northern hybridizer who does have integirty...I did. Actions...not lies.

Numb Nuts....go back under your rock.... Nobody wants to hear you start more of your crap. This place has been positive and peaceful..... do everyone a favor....poof and leave it that way.

um, what does rust actually look like?

Rusty gunk on the leaves (google for pics), rubs off on tissue or paper towel.

simpleone I hope you didn't move to my area.

Do you ever get tired of wearing such a heavy halo? Please go polish it some more or better yet, return to Dave's - oh wait, you can't. You must hold the record for the number of forums which have booted you off.

Truth indeed, utilize the rock please.

Brooke

Don't worry, I'm not moving. Hey, it is nice to know I can come here to find three people who are champions...defending the right for Americans to use excuses to be the foundations for what they believe in. Those excuses never get old...no matter how often (daily) that you use them. Yes, excuses are the tool that you use to choose wrong over right and benefit. Takers unite...there are fewer and fewer givers every day to force you to take responsibility for your actions. All you have to do is maintain your moral ineptitude and the givers will fade away.

I volunteered to be removed from Dave's membership by the way.

Sure you did - I read and enjoyed every minute of your sparkling reparte`.

Brooke

I was asked to read the rules when I made a post, and I asked for my membership to be canceled because I would not conform. I don't want to be a part of self-promotion, blatant advertising, and deceptive trade practices.

I simply said that it is common to intro a flower worth ten bucks for $100 or more, while another hybridizer would not even consider intoducing it. If you are going to do things like that then you should be able to witness a negative response.

Bumped.

Wade,
You always seem to make some good points, but unfortunately, your bad attittude and conspiracy theories push everyone away from you. You are one of those "the glass is half empty" people that manage to see everything that is wrong, but over look anything that might be good. In one post you stated....

"Anyone saying ANYTHING positve about rust is lying."

Then you proceed with....

"By the way, rust is not a negative at all."

In the next one now PLEASE tell me which is it? No PLEASE don't bother, I'm not really that interested in your opinion.

Why don't you do this? Build your garden, fill it with rust resistant plants that won't get crown rot, and start introducing some plants. I'll tell you why you won't, it is because you wouldn't be able to take the criticisium. Show the world what a great hybridizer you are.

Why is it where ever you end up, you manage to offend people? Being out spoken is ok as long as you don't get personal, and that is where you seem to have problems. The minute someone disagrees with you, you attack them. We have been down this road before. It was sad and it was sickening, I was thoroughly disgusted with both of us!

Now you've been gone for how many months, only to reappear because you are no longer welcome somewhere else, and the first thing you seem to do is offend people by getting back up on your soap box and trying to froce feed them your opinions.

Lets see last time you caused a lot of hurt and additional embarassment to a GOOD person that had some really bad luck and enough on her plate, then you went on to belittle some of the other members here because they are "women".

We don't really want you or your kind here, so please feel free to disappear again.

It's a shame it was even bumped back up...what a waste of space and time....
Now the subject of "Rust" that is always a good thread and helpful especially for newbies too. To bad the subject could not have just been brought up...with a Fresh Start!
I think sometimes folks just like to start crap....so sad.
You sure got it right Bambi!

Two of the three "champions" have spoken. Truth means nothing to them so they make up their own stories.

The daylily problems are just another symptom of the reality of American society. The truth hurts...bigtime. Innocence, justice, and integrity have all been lost. The best we can do is to be selective, ignore the truth, and focus on our own personal desires.

To be different, or a non-conformist, we have to sacrifice. You can't walk the fence and have any integrity. You can't pursue your own agendas. You have to basically lose everything. You have to take on the monster we have become. "Champions" pop up at every corner to protect the status quo because that is where the personal investments are.

The common person expends their energy protecting the illusions they live in. I decided a while back that there just isn't anything important enough for me to play the selfish game anymore. Money means nothing to me. It is just the vehicle that takes us to the next day. Erosion is a word that describes the quality of life. Lies are the most valuable items we use each day.

If you want to see a simple perspective that defines life in a basic math that even "champions" can understand, try sitting in front of your children and talk about life without lying. Explain what their future will be. We created a monster, and the only way to fix things is to destroy it all and start over. And even if we do that, we will have to have a spiritual truth to control our perverted physical lives, or we will turn out the same.

Of course, none of this matters to a "champion". They have their lies to keep them busy. I do not have any daylilies anymore.

"I do not have any daylilies anymore." says Simpleton.

Good, then there's no reason for you to frequent the "daylily" forum any more.

Jan

Jan, maybe you should understand the word "frequent" before you attach it to me.

"Two of the three "champions" have spoken. Truth means nothing to them so they make up their own stories."
No one has made up any stories.

"Of course, none of this matters to a "champion". They have their lies to keep them busy. I do not have any daylilies anymore."

Well said, and now that you no longer have any Daylilys, you probably don't have much to contribute here, maybe you could find a philosophy or negativity forum somewhere. I'm sure you'll be a hit there. I guess you'll never win a Stout now either.

Wade, you have some serious issues, please do yourself a favor and try and get some help.

Read this carefully....

"To be different, or a non-conformist, we have to sacrifice. You can't walk the fence and have any integrity. You can't pursue your own agendas. You have to basically lose everything. You have to take on the monster we have become. "Champions" pop up at every corner to protect the status quo because that is where the personal investments are.

The common person expends their energy protecting the illusions they live in. I decided a while back that there just isn't anything important enough for me to play the selfish game anymore. Money means nothing to me. It is just the vehicle that takes us to the next day. Erosion is a word that describes the quality of life. Lies are the most valuable items we use each day."

You really need to stop elevating yourself and quit looking down on other people just because they don't share your negative views and opinions of everything.

Excuse me now my coffee cup is half full, I think I'll go top it off.

Consistency is predictable. Challenge the voice, not the content. One thing I learned in my life...the person who can admit to their actions has the ability to move in a positive direction. The rest spend their time either defending/hiding their actions or enjoying their ill-gained profits.

Time for your medication adjustment, again, Wade.

Jake Jones, please quit dragging this out of the dust bin, over and over. If you want a new rust topic, maybe the former grower/hybridizer will abandon it and move to another forum. New people interested in rust can learn about it on the AHS website.

Everyone who makes a profit on daylilies - please raise your hand - ROTFLMAO

Brooke

Brooke

Again, just as expected. The third of the champions comes forth to blame another innocent person. I did not reply to Jake. But, to those who never take responsibility for their actions, just because you don't profit by being a member of the excuse club, that doesn't mean you are not a champion.

I would like to recommend three books:

A New Earth by Eckhart Tolle...he translates truth into the various languages that liars might understand

The Intuitive Way by Penney Pierce...I hate her "wordy a million times over" technique, but she explains the ego in a way that even a champion will understand, ineveitably sending them into a search for medication

Edgar Cayce's Antlantis by Little/Van Auken...the only path to spiritual truth that does not have politics as the foundation

Maybe if the world was educated we might not have the "half-full" truth I embrace

I guess we should just ignore him, and eventually he will go away again.