Absolutely!

veronica
marguerite (anthemis tinctoria)
monarda
viola (Johnny-Jump-Up)
trollius europaeus
verbascum blaterria (sp?)
dianthus barbatus
convallaria (lily-of-the-valley)
Siberian iris

There's plenty more, I'm sure...

Delphiniums (althought they get PM but no biggie)
Lupines
Gaillardia
Hardy Daylilies
Physostegia (Obedience Plant)
Tiger Lilies
Tulips
Shasta Daisies
Sedums

Also there's;

Snow in Summer
Pearly Everlasting
Gas Plant (dictamnus)
Explorer roses
Thymes
Monkshood
Liatris
Yarrow

That's about all I can think of for now......

Just a few from my neck of the woods.

Shasta Daisy
Rose Campion
Columbine
Sweet Woodruff
Dames Rocket
Coreopsis (SP)
Striped Grass
Fescue
Lilacs (old fashioned)

And,

Centaurea montana
Sempervivum (Hens & Chicks)
Heliopsis (False Sunflower)
Helictotrichon sempervirens (Blue Oat Grass)
Calamagrostis Karl Foerster, Overdam, Eldorado
Alchemilla mollis (Lady's Mantle)
Papavar orientalis (Oriental Poppy)
Salvia Blue & Rose Queen
Erigeron (Fleabane)
Scabiosa caucasia Fama
Chrysanthemum aka Tanacetum coccineum (Painted Daisy)
Doronicum (Leopards Bane)
Saponaria ocymoides (Soapwort)
Primula cortusoides
Lamium

No one's mentioned phlox, both subulata and what's the other kind, the tall ones? Paniculata. I've had them growing for years with no problems. I can also add:

Heuchera sanguinium (seems to be the hardiest heuchera)
Achillea (sometimes grows too well!)
Polemonium
Asters
Lythrum (will i get into trouble for mentioning it?!)
Lychnis
Geraniums
Adenophora (i would like to take a bullet to this stuff sometimes! LOL)

Good topic!

Marcia,
taking notes

My brain was fired by the flu bug that bit me..Im trying to think of what is reliable in my garden to add to the list

cushion spurge
dianthus (deltoides)
iris -versicolor- blue flag
iris- pseudacorus - yellow flag
hops
Betony
Lychnis Chacedonica
daisy fleabane
savona

Just a thought: Not to spoil the fun, but it's occuring to me that most of us have little or no trouble growing most reasonably hardy plants... we are experienced gardeners with a great support net here. I think a lot of times what turns off beginner gardeners is placement and basic care rather than plant selection. If we recommended Delphiniums (for instance) and they planted them in a patch of gravel behind the air conditioner on the north side of the house, they aren't gonna do so well. Remember to give simple and useful advice along with plant selection. Remember, the #1 object of gardening is to enable others. Mwahahaha.

Yes, Gillian you are so right! Another example would be peonies. For a knowledgeable gardener they will provide years of enjoyment with little effort, but for the newbie who plants it 6" deep, it'll be a flop. It's intimidating for a beginning gardener, I'm sure, but if they find the Far North forum and it's wealth of knowlegde, they'll do just fine. ;^)

Okay, so what about starting the list again and this time give one or two sentences about the perennial in regards to planting instructions so that a first time gardener would be able to plant and grow the plant for years to come.

For example...

Asiatic lilies and LA lilies...
Plant 6 inches deep in a sunny location. Divide every 5 years or so, when the size of the flowers start diminishing.

Brenda

Awsome, awsome, awsome!!!! Great thread and great timing! Now I can make a list to keep in my purse when I go to the nursery this spring and get overwhelmed by all the choices! And come home with something sensible and reliable. Excellent idea to add some growing info as well, sometimes labels can be rather generic. Information from experienced far north gardeners is absolutely priceless!

I'd add:

Creeping Thyme (tons of sun and well drained soil)

Sedums (same as above, I'd say)

Some Mints (carefully and with some type of enclosure as it can get invasive)

Edible Rhubarb and Chives (which look great as ornamentals...lots of sun with regular watering, but well drained soil...they're tough, but if you feed them well they'll love you for it)

False Ashleaf Spirea...have I got that name right? (Low maintenance shrub that will spread. I've got mine in full sun in well drained soil and it gets a couple feedings a season)

Keep it coming! :^)

Snow in Summer- full sun, well drained soil, does spread a bit.

Pearly Everlasting- full sun, well drained soil, does get large, so give it room

Gas Plant (dictamnus)- full sun, well drained soil, can tolerate heat and drought once established, do NOT divide or move plant once established.

Explorer roses- full sun, well drained soil, likes to be fertilized every now and again, but not after Aug 1.

Thymes- full sun, very well draining soil, can stand heat and drought once established.

Monkshood- full sun/part shade, rich well drained soil

Liatris- full sun, drought tolerant once established.
Yarrow- full sun, well drained soil, drought tolerant, can spread.

What a great "thread"

Due to limited space in my yard and limited experience I can only pay tribute to

Lupins [enjoy the heat and sun of my south facing yard]
and
Globe Flower [Trolius) [heat and sun also]

I've done major ammendments to my clay soil with compost, peat and vermiculite and both of these plants seem to love it - I"m not the greatest waterer and they are very forgiving for me

Fern

Great thread!

Seeing as I was very much a beginner when I planted up my current gardens I've gone through my list and took notes about which perennials survived for me!

Platycodon (Balloon Flower) - lots of sun, well drained soil.

Linum Perene (Blue Flax) - lots of sun, well drained soil
(tends to drop alot of seed so you'll have lots of 'babies' but they do pull out easily!)

Scabiosa (Shepherd's Scabiosa) - lots of sun, well drained soil.

Everything else has already been mentioned!

Baptisia australis
Common name: Blue False Indigo
Full Sun
Drought tolerant, once established
Slow growing but well worth the wait

Persicaria polymorpha
Common name: White Fleece Flower
Best in moist fertile soil, full or half day sun
Drought tolerant, once established

Verbena hastata
Common name: Blue Vervain
Moderately fertile, well-drained but moisture retentive soil in a sunny position

How interesting. I wouldn't list delphiniums as 'easy to grow' as you have to deal with staking and mine always seem to get spider mites. And silly as it may seem - I can not grow lupines. I think it's because my soil is so "sweet."

I do love polymorpha persicaria - but it grows huge here - 6 - 7' tall. Let's see... I love 'Purple showers' viloa. It is grown from cuttings, not seeds, so it's not a self-seeding maniac... and it really blooms all summer. I grow mine in full sun.

I like Helen von Stein Stachys. Again, it's from cuttings, not seeds, and it doesn't send up those odd spikes of flowers that lambs' ears from seeds do. full sun.
Allium senescens and Allium tuberosum (garlic chives) are nice. sun

I have a deer problem, so can't get near asiatic lilies - and even daylilies get munched early on.

Oh - did anyone mention cimicifugia - only purpurea. The really dark leaved ones grow slowly and the species spreads. part shade - Tall!

And of course astilbes - here they do best in full sun, although they are always sold as a shade plant.And I like pulmonaria - majeste has nice silver leaves. Again - they do ok here in full sun, but they are a part-shade plant elsewhere. Heck, ,most hostas do ok in full sun where I live.

Oh - and one of my all-time favorites - astrantia... Long blooming.

Not sure why I felt compelled to write all that ?-) Amanda

So, why are Asiatic and LA lilies a lot easier than Oriental ones?

I tried Orientals 3 times, and they always died, but I thought I had knocked them over, or crowded them out, or couldn't succeed planting bareroot lily bulbs. My potted Asiatic 'Lollypop' lilies worked much better, but potted lilies are quite a bit more expensive.

Seeing the recommendation above, I got up the courage to try planting bareroot Asiatic 'Sugar Jewel' and LA 'Algarve' Lilies this year. They grew just fine, and I loved them both!

But now that I've got some Lily confidence back, how do people succeed with Orientals?

Thanks,
Sharon

Asiatic and LAs are naturally more cold hardy than Orientals and Oriental crosses. I don't know if zone 3/4 would make that much of a difference in this respect but most of us cover our Orientals with mulch for the winter. It is also recommended to plant in spring and protect the plants during early frosts so the bulbs have as much growing season as possible to store energy.

Another thing I just learned is that Orientals prefer a slightly acidic soil. This makes me hopeful because my new yard has acidic soil. I just planted a collection of (I think) 6 Orientals this spring and am hoping at least most of them make the winter.

If they just don't work for you, stick with what does. LAs have impressed me immensely so far. I never buy potted lilies (ok well twice).

I grow delphiniums, jacob's ladder, scabiosa, sea lavender, and golden marguerite (anthemis) in a hill shaped bed. I've never winter mulched or protected the plants in any way and they come back every year. I also grow delphiniums, jacob's ladder, valerian and peonies out at the cottage which is zone 2, again without any winter protection. In my mind the most cast iron perrenials are delphiniums (deadhead like crazy or you'll have seedlings all over the place), peonies, valerian (again deadhead like crazy) and jacob's ladder. All these seem to survive winter without protection and once established are pretty drought tolerant.

I did get two Oriental lilies this year - Mona Lisa and Starfighter. The tags stated that they were hardy to zone two, amazingly enough. We'll see what happens :)

Also, lilies need drainage. This can't be emphasized enough. They cannot tolerate standing water for any length of time. Create a little "mound" of dirt for them to be in if necessary.

My question - I've decided to get rid of all the annuals in one flower bed, so I need perennials to fill in where they were. Could anyone give me a list of perennials that are 18" tall and shorter? I've got lots of short soapwort, geraniums, and creeping baby's breath.
Connie

Connie, how about Penstemon. You could also add shorter daylilies and there are quite a few short lilies.

Shelley

Connie,

Along the edge of the flowerbeds I place perennials about the same height (under 18") as you are asking for. So...

irises (MDBs, SDBs, IBs)
daylilies (most of the Siloams, Little Suzie, Barbary Corsair, Apricot Sparkles, Broadway Pink Slippers, Little Bumblebee, Eenie Fanfare, Eenie Weenie, Exotic Echo, Little Business, Little Missy, Mae Graham, Mini Pearl, Pardon Me, Popeye, Watermelon Man, Wine Delight, Yellow Bouquet, You Angel You)
hen and chicks (semps)
jovibarba
sedums
tradescandia (spiderwort)
lady's mantle
pulmonaria (lungworts)
cinquefoil (perennial potentillas like Miss Willmott, Ruby Red)
campanula
penstemon (elfin pink)
mini balloon flowers (sentimental blue compact)
alliums
artemesia (silver brocade, silver mound)
bleeding heart, dwarf
catmint (Walker's Low)
snow-in-summer
snow on the mountain (goutweed...invasive though)
wooly cerastium
columbines
coral bells
corydallis
dianthus
blue fescue
hostas
jacob's ladder
lamiums
lady slippers
lilies (Denia, Blackbird, Cameleon, all the Pixies, Disco, Elgrado, Madame, Mirabella, New Wave, Petit Pink)
lynchis viscaria (German Catchfly)
lynchis vesuvius
pasque flower
peony, fern leaf
phlox, creeping
phlox (Lilac Flame, Pink Flame, Purple Flame, Red Riding Hood)
ranunculus
salvia
scabiosa
silene
thyme
veronica
vinca

Crocus, daffodils, scillia, muscari, glory of the snow and tulips (like Blue Diamond and species) are all bulbs available under 18".

I also have miniature spireas like Golden Princess and the Carpet series planted near the edge of the beds.

Have fun deciding on which perennials to use.

Brenda

Oh my there is sooooooooo many to list, my two favourites would have to be...

Alyssum wulfenianum is a short perennial good for the front of the border, it blooms for a long period and if you shear back it will rebloom right up till the end of season. Very hardy, drought tolerant, pretty little yellow flowered plant.

Same with Nepeta Catmint as Brenda suggested, I have several of plants along at the front of the border, they bloom very early right up till a hard frost if you shear back a couple of times during the season, looks great along the border and the bees love it too!

Sharon

Hi Connie,

Brenda mentioned Walker's Low Catmint (which I got for the first time this spring and am loving it !), but there is also 'Blue Moon' Catmint. It grows easily for me and makes a very striking, blue uniform edging plant. It is not scented, though. It gets around 18 -20" here and has behaved so far in my garden.

Toots, where did you get your 'Blue Moon'. I tried growing seed a few years ago, but with no luck, besides I've read that it doesn't come true to seed anyway.
I would love to get the real plant in my garden someday.

Sharon

I bet this Catmint cultivar would look great at the front of the border.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pink Cat

Too bad that the 'Pink Cat' is a zone 5. Otherwise, I would definitely be looking for it because I think it would make a great addition somewhere in my yard.

Brenda

Brenda, ignore the zone on that tag, "you ain't going to know till you try". Toots grows 'Blue Moon' which is a nervosa species, Pink Cat is a nervosa species too.

Most plant company catalogues/tags are quite extravagant with their hardiness ratings. Zone ratings are nothing more than a guideline.

Sharon

Good, because I really like Pink Cat.

Actually, come to think of it...lamb's ears are listed as a zone 5 plant also in some web sites...and we can grow it here.

Brenda

Brenda, wow that surproses me that both of those are rated zone 5 ! It must not have been on the tag when I picked up 'Blue Moon' or I might have been scared off as well. But don't be! I've had it since 2005 and it has increased and looked beautiful every year since with no sign of winterkill. Pink Cat is very tempting, you're right....hmmmm.

As a fairly new gardner, 2 things this forum has taught me is for one, zone ratings are not always accurate and the other is to just give it a try and see how grows for you.
It sure helps to see what other far northerners are able to grow and not have to depend soley on the zone ratings.

Sharon, I got Blue Moon in 2005 at either Canadian Tire or Walmart...and I'm leaning toward Canadian Tire.

Wow - good list for me. I have some of them already in my shade garden - lamium, columbine, lady's mantle, etc. Now I need to sort out which are good for sun, and bloom times so I have something happening all summmer long. Sounds like a good project for this winter.
Thanks, Connie

Hi there, I just arrived and have not finished reading the entire thread, but I have been noticing that so many people say, not Oriental lilies. However, someone mentioned that they like acid soil, and that must make the difference. We have put them in just about every garden, with differing conditions, and they have all done well for years on end. Our soil is quite acid, as we live in the wood, and we are finding that for lilies, as well as most bulbs, this is a real help.

I just happened upon this site and how wonderful it is. I can hardly wait to start northern gardening. I'm currently in one of the most southern parts of Southwestern Ontario, and will be moving with my hubby and kids in the Spring to Northern Ontario!!! I hadn't realized how many of my existing plants are possibly transplantable...I don't know if they'll make it through the 15 hour drive??? Any suggestions as to what to do for moving them safely? or should I just order through a mail catologue once we get settled? Any advice would be welcomed.

newbie nicole... you will have no problem in moving perennials with a 15 hour drive ahead of you...

I moved from a house in town, to our acreage in the spring about 13 years ago. These are some things you could keep in mind...

Hopefully you will be able to move after the ground is thawed and as plants start to come up in the spring. This is what happened with me. As the plants started coming up, I divided or removed the whole perennial and placed it into a nursery pot. When I ran out of pots, I used plastic bags in a box, or ice cream pails/margarine containers with holes in them.

The people purchasing our place had not seen any pictures of the yard with flowers blooming so, they had no idea what was there before. I took out favorite plants and a rose bush that was given to us as a sympathy gift when my DH's dad passed away.

Is your home sold already? Do the people moving in know what your yard looks like with the perennials you do have?

Sometimes all you need to take is a corner chunk of the perennial and you will be able to start it again at the new place.

If you have access to crates (eg. milk crates) that stack...then you would have an easier time in transporting the perennials.

You could also use plastic bags in a milk crate to place a number of perennials in the same crate instead of using nursery pots and lots of soil that would then also take up a lot of room (and weight).

If you are moving after the ground would be thawed but before the perennials would be growing, then I would recommend right now for you to start digging and replanting into pots and placing them in a friend's garden for the winter. Because, you don't want anyone who potentially is a purchaser of your yard, to see all these perennials in pots in the garden that you are taking with you. Then in spring, just dig them out of your friend's garden and take them with you.

Another thing is that when selling your home, you could place a clause in the agreement, that you will removing favorite perennials (all or some) to take with you.

Place the perennials in the shade as soon as you get to your new home and plant them as soon as you can. If you do not know exactly where their permanent home will be then dig the pots into the ground, making a holding garden and then transplant them out of there as the new beds are ready.

Have fun moving! It is a lot of work (been there, done that) but it is nice to see the same perennials bloom in their new home. It is like taking some of your old home, your memories, with you.

The root system of the plants are usually a lot more mature when you take transplants from your original plants than what you would get by mail order or through a local nursery. You would have mature plants in your new home a lot sooner.

Also, you would be saving a pile of money (assuming that you have a lot of perennials) in future landscaping in your new home.

I know this is a long reply but...

Nicole, I was at my sister's this weekend, and after seeing what her plants have been through... She put them in pots three or four years ago, and moved them from Revelstoke to my Dad's place, and stuck them in the ground in their pots. (six hour drive). This spring they finally bought a farm near Pincher Creek, four hours away, and she moved her pots there. The plants are still sitting in their pots, since the place had no flowerbeds, and are still doing fine. She only lost a couple of plants that were borderline hardy. I suspect they'll get plunked into the garden patch, still in their pots, for the winter. If you can actually move them and get them planted in one go, they'll probably do wonderfully.

Connie

I agree with Connie & Brenda. I also moved and took a truckload of perennials this time last year. Unfortunately, the house sold in mid-summer and my real estate agent was too pig-headed to add anything about moving plants... told me just go ahead and dig them up. So I was stressed that the new owners would complain but they didn't.

If you will be waiting a few weeks before you can plant them at the other end (ground is frozen, beds need to be dug, etc.), just make sure you use all pots and no plastic bags. I had to use a few plastic bags and my asparagus died, and some daylilies weren't too happy after a week in plastic.