Speaking about myself ,in zone 6 b,i have no reason,to give up growing figs.
I have fruited succesfully figs here since 1995,when my first fig,on this property, was 2 yers old and started to produce ripe figs.I have the house from 1993.
Since then i improved my stock,a lot by looking for better tasting varieties.
Yet,not a single year passed without me having a large production of figs from my fig trees.
It takes work and passion,to succed,but is not impossible.
It,could be that in zone 5 is much harder,to get results,but,i think there are people,that succeded,to have ripe figs there too.
Where there is a will there is a way.
This proverb,is very true when applyied to growing figs,because this plant is so forgiving,and so willing to grow.
Best Regards

I am in Zone 5 and have no intention to give up. I just started last year and intend to fig--ur it out as long as it takes. As Hurman says "Where there is a will there is a fig, and where there is a fig there is more will".
BTW we are going to have -2C (under 30F) here in Ottawa tonight and I covered my inground potted figs with clear garbage bags. These will stay for three or four days since we are going to have below freezing for the next four nights.
Yes, Hurman, there is provision for air circulation at the bottom.

i admire you guys but it's difficult to prevent all those "storms" facing my figs, so many unforeseen things affect my figs. i am not sure for how many years i am trying to succeed in growing them and it's not easy.

The whole reason I am growing figs in containers is so I can bring them inside when random frosts and freezes threatens in may and April.

nude gardener, Don't take such a sour look on things. I am here in Central Pennsylvania and everything looks alright. YOu have to have a good attitude, and you'll be amazed at how things could change. If it happens you don't get any this year, well then try for next year. Be optimistic. Show your figs lots of love anyway. P.S. All my figs are in containers. I wouldn't put them here in the ground, in the event we sell our home and move to the country, I want all my figs to come with me instead of someone else buying the house who knows nothing about figs, then they all die off. Especially my sentimental family heirloom tree. Chin up, get a better outlook on things. Ciao.

Nude Gardener

I don't know where you live, how large your tree, but you could set up a teepee/tent with a lamp or small heater+timer, I woul bring it in the house , I would put it next to my bed if I had too, in the bathtub, but I would not give up .If you have no room how about you neighbors garage, friends, the mailman, turn them on to figs, figs can deepen a frienship. Nurture you fig, the sun will shine again and if no figs this year you have a tree you love that will give give more next year, you will know what to expect and be ready with options. All the best.

I am actually thrilled with my figs this year. I have two brown turkey figs in the ground. I did not protect them at all (not even any mulch). Both are in leaf now. But my biggest surprise was my Negronne Petite. It was in a container that I neglected to protect. Well, it too sprouted out and doing well. It is chilly now, but we always seem to have chilly springs, but fall is very warm and winter begins very late (almost like living in Argentina).

Nude Gardener,

I, too, am in zone 5 and just bought my 1st fig tree (Atreano) and it is just starting to push out leaves. Before buying I knew it would be difficult so I have a plan for next year. This method is already being used in Milwaukee by someone growing (and eating) figs for at least 3 or 4 years.

Here is the plan: my tree will over winter in my basement; some time in February or March I will bring it up stairs to break dormancy and leaf out. Mid May when the threat of frost is behind me my fig will be way ahead of the game.

So don't give up and try waking up your tree earlier, too.

Very good advice citrusnut.
Now I will give you a little bit of head up about your way of growing your tree.
You will have one obstacle and if you manage to succeed then indeed you will get a good Harvest.
When you bring your tree out,in the open,make sure you adapt the tree gradually to the sun and outside air.
This is your most dificult moment.
Start with total shade and slowelly in about 2 weeks, the tree will learn to live outside.You give it little more sun everyday.
This method will make the Fig, ripe fruits,up to zone 4,if done corectly.
Best Regards

I would rather trade my boat(fishing hobby) than to give up figs. In fact I am increasing my collection selectively & getting a green house this year. My wife loves fresh figs plus the have many new friends made. I plan to have a small figgy party this summer in my backyard. Right now my patio window sill is laden with figs in 32 oz containers & guess what, I got more cuttings today at a strangers house. Almost all my figs are container grown and it sure involves a little bit of extra work but well worth the efforts.

That is the way to go, Paully. No stopping now.
Which fig varieties will it take to trade your fishing boat?

Thanks to Jon & MB. I am happy with what I have to keep me focus on being sane. Just being so busy with work & figging keeps me working in the garden with my wife. Peace at home is assured. Salmon fishing have to a step back. Anyway I catch more fish than I need(even after taking a step back). Most of the time over the years its catch & release. I just enjoy being out in the wild.

I'm also in PA. I have over a 100 fig trees. Growing figs are much easier for me than growing apples and peaches. You can't get any apples without spraying. The only thing you need to worry about with figs is protection.

Bass

Herman, I will certainly follow your good advice.

I have about a 100 figs as well, maybe 25 varieties altogether & I've been growing container figs for 16 years. Some varieties definitely are not suitable for container growing in zone 4 (SW Wisc), but others like Conadria, Petit Negri & Hardy Chicago do fine in our limited window. I usually bring my figs out of the basement around May 15 & they are back in the basement sometime between Oct 15 & Nov 1.
Last year I harvested approximately 30-40 pounds of figs & had enough to make fig jam (which disappeared almost immediately).

Here is a link that might be useful: Dreamtime Village

memexikon
Your post makes me feel good about figs finding out that someone in colder zone than mine is growing figs successfully. What do you do in zone 4 to have your figs ripened in a short summer such as enclosure etc to maintain heat required for ripening?
Also, what is the basement temperature during the storage time from end of October to mid May where you keep your one hundred fig pots?

I've done a tremendous amount of experimenting with where I place the figs in the summer. Protection from winds keeps the leaves in much better shape, and also I put mine in a kind of courtyard that does a good job of warming up. When they come out of the basement (30 - 40 degrees during winter) they usually already have an inch or two of growth.

Pinching new growth after the fourth leaf, increases production drastically, I would say I get 3-4 times as much fruit when I do that. & of course once the figs are changing color & filling out, you cannot let them dry out.

So no secrets really, just sound practices that have been discussed here on the forum repeatedly.

here's my question memexikon; I have been told to put my desert king in garage protected of course, next to window. How can a tree get any sun in a basement? Or does yours have adequate windows? I want to bring mine in to basement, but do want dormancy.
Maybe it's just desert king that needs some light in winter. I'm a newbie at this, anyway, not challenging anyone. I sure hope mine survive.

NG - I just read this post for the first time today. See if any of this fits:

When plants are in leaf, cold soil temperatures can make phosphorous (P) unavailable. A lack of P causes a build-up of a red/purple/maroon pigment (anthocyanin), so it's very possible that is what you were seeing. Did it straighten out later in the growth cycle (all the new leaves) after it warmed up?

Another physiological issue can be related to something different. A P deficiency is not the only suspect cause of purple leaves. Nearly any environmental condition that puts the brakes on growth and the accompanying use of sugars, but does not limit sugar production (photosynthesis) can cause anthocyanin buildup and purple leaves. (tight roots?)

If it's nutrient related, you might get a hint by noting if only the outer edges of the leaves are purple, in which case it may be a K or Mg deficiency. If the center of the leaves are also purple, it could be too much Ca in the soil or irrigation water blocking uptake of P (see deficiency symptoms above) and Mg.

Al