I'd wait until spring. There is little root activity during the winter. The general pattern is for existing, intact root tips to elongate markedly after overwintering buds are formed at shoot tips, and for new roots to grow in spring, after these buds open. In both instances the root growth is regulated by hormones produced by the buds at the shoot tips.

You're on to something but I can't interprete properly.

I get the impression that I'm better off root pruning this winter since the roots are dormant, no?

Or perhaps do it now so that it can put energy into the roots over the next month or so vs. losing all that progress if I were to root prune in lets say late March?

Again: there is very little root activity during the winter. This is why commercial stock dug bare-rooted in fall is stored in warehouses and shipped in spring (when destined for climates too cold for fall planting). You do not want to cut the roots at this time, the plants will mostly just sit there, damaged, and pretty much unable to respond until spring bud break.

I agree with Bboy.
Wait until Spring.

Josh

That makes three of us. Repotting a conifer is best done during a growth spurt. Winter is enough of a desert for them already, no sense taking roots away also.

tj

I'm not questioning you guys but wanting to understand.

I get the whole concept of root development timing. But the roots will freeze and become dormant, right?

Will the roots not have the ability to repair themselves due to the length of dormancy?

The whole premise of not digging or planting in summer or winter (besides frozen soil) is that the plant will not be able to absorb moisture to protect the needles from drying winds. Since these plants are in a garage that is not an issue.

I apologize if you have to beat me over the head but I need concrete info to understand.

The root systems won't have time to produce the fine feeder roots that you'd be wrecking right now. Same thing I told you about whether to transplant a tree "outdoors" now or to wait until spring. If you'd of asked this question during Sept. anytime I'd of said go right ahead. It's becoming to close to winter whaas.

bboy suggests the assertion about plants dug and kept refrigerated, the big difference being they are kept at much (warmer) temps than Wisconsin winters.

I can't say it any differently.

Dax

Why does the plant need the fine feeder roots when the roots are frozen/dormant and in storage? Wouldn't they have already absorbed enough moisture prior to the plant going dormant? Think about watering your evergreens throughly before the ground freezes.

Perhaps there will be thaws during the winter and the roots won't be able to absorb the much need moisture during those periods? I guess that makes sense to me.

I don't know if I'm asking the hard questions or the dumb questions. Eitherway I'm sure you guys will straighten me out.

When you prune roots, you remove stored root energy.

Also, when you prune roots, the tree will attempt to re-grow those roots,
which will further tax the plant's energy stores.

If you wait until Spring to re-pot, you can catch the plant as it becomes quiescent (wakeful).
Root-prune and re-pot right before the buds swell and the plant will barely skip a beat.

Josh

Ding...the light just went off.

I have a follow-on to whaas's question...These explanations do indeed make good sense, but then...

Why do we often hear that fall is the best time to transplant, in that the plant will have the most time to re-establish itself before it is challenged by summer temps? And that right after the plant enters dormancy (i.e. now where I am) is ideal?

Why do we often hear that spring transplant around the time of bud break can result in wilting of soft new growth and potential plant failure? Seems like this would be exacerbated by intentional pruning to correct the root system defects.

In that case, would late winter (I'm thinking March as temps rise above freezing) be better than right before bud break (May)? But again in that case, why is there so much propaganda about fall planting after entering dormancy?

I'll echo whaas and say that I do not in any measure doubt everyone's expertise, indeed there seems universal agreement from you all on this one. I'm just trying to better understand how to care for my plants.

Thanks,
Alex

One thing I can add is that the energy in the roots has already been sent to the buds in the case described above vs removing roots before they send energy to the buds.
I don't know if this is right or not but that is the light that went off upstairs.

Good questions btw MG.

@Alex-

Fall planting a conifer at a time when roots can get settled in is one thing (roughly ending early-mid October here), but repotting, (or planting, for that matter) in Wisconsin in November when it doesn't give the roots a chance to form is another.

Fall dormancy (more like semi-dormancy) for a conifer is when the soil temp goes below 40F and that's too late for planting with any kind of root disturbance, dormancy for deciduous trees is when the leaves fall, two different things.

As for spring planting, as soon as the soil can be worked without forming clumps, that's the time to plant.

tj

And all of this is exactly why I will never EVER purchase another conifer from Arbor day society. I purchased a Colorado Blue spruce and it still has not arrived here.

I called them, it is supposed to arrive here in SW South Dakota, Exact location would be Black Hawk SD. In November. Which isn't exactly the best time to plant I don't believe. When I called they said they were waiting for a second frost in Tenn. which is where their spruce farm is located. =(

Needless to say, I shant be purchasing from them ever again. I purchased this spruce prior to learning where their farm was, prior to learning enough about their practices and whatnot. Well, now I know, now anyone who searches up their name will find this post hopefully will learn too! Rotten really, I think.

~Tina

On the other hand...

I over-winter quite a bit of nursery stock, and many things get shifted at this time. I don't look for root growth, but for a larger soil reservoir for moisture. You all know of course, that when you water a root-bound pot, that water just runs right down the side and out the holes.

I don't bare root the stock, but the root ball certainly gets opened up a bit. Been doing this for a long time, and I don't lose conifers over winter.

So, whaas, your situation sounds just right to me for shifting, as you expect to water a bit over winter in the garage.

brian