Always correct what you can.

tj

Always and only, deal with congested root balls, especially conifers, when the plant is dormant!

No exceptions and I can't say this enough. It's the single most important thing with successful root surgery.

'pluck it out of the pot, plant it as is...'

This is not a bad thing to do. If you receive a plant during the growing season, you're better off putting this new plant into the ground 'as is' or into a larger pot, then wait until the plant is fully dormant (Fall or early Spring), then dig it up and do any root surgery at that time, before replanting it.

Did I mention not messing with roots until the plant is dormant?

Also, be gentle, when pulling tangled roots, be sure you're not tearing off any of the fine roots along the root and at the ends. These are your feeder roots and what the plant depends on to draw moisture and nutrients.

If you don't leave enough feeder roots, the plant will die before it can grow new roots.

If you're fixing more than ~15% of a root mass, you're probably going to kill the tree although I pressed a few well past that amount that survived.

Did I mention not messing with roots until the plant is dormant? ;-)

I've held plants for dormant pruning but not firs......even just slip potting I am weary. AFAIK, firs are very picky on their container mix...and depend on the mychrozzia on their roots in order to survive. Whether it's in ground or pot, I always inoculate the roots with myco for good measure

No roots were pruned. Just unwrapped them, unbinded them, to plant it with straight roots into the ground vs. a rounded mess. Even though I did not cut any roots but just untangled them, it was enough for them to not be happy.

'Either mildy rootbound circling the edges.'

If the plant has been up potted and root pruned as needed at the nursery and the only roots at the inside of the pot are fine and beginning to follow the inside of the pot, just plant it.

Once in the ground those fine roots won't be a problem and will grow straight away being there's no longer a restriction stopping them.

Thicker, woodier roots will need some work and straightening them during planting time is recommended.

The circling roots closer to the trunk that are too woody to straighten, may need to be clipped.

There is a point that a potbound tree is just too far gone to successfully fix.

If it's a chance you have to acquire a fairly rare tree, just do what's necessary, removing the 'J hooks' and bad stuff but remember, keep the surgery to a bare minimum. The less that's required, the better chance the tree has to survive.

I almost shuddered when I read some one was using a type of comb on the roots.

That sounds like certain death to me.

Root surgery is most successful when the tree is dormant, or maybe I said that already. 🤣

'AFAIK, firs are very picky on their container mix...and depend on the mychrozzia on their roots in order to survive.'

Don't over think this. A lot of what goes around in gardening circles are a myth:

https://www.gardenmyths.com/mycorrhizae-fungi-inoculant-products/

I use nothing but 5-1-1 bark mix for all my potted conifer seedlings, including firs.

The only feeding I give them in a weak mixture of MG and Epsom salts.

They do fine.

Once in the ground, same story.

Likely different in Bill's colder climate but evergreen conifers never really go fully dormant in my area, nor do BLE's.

Given that caveat, I loosen rootballs of everything whenever I plant. If I were planting today, that is exactly what I would do, although I do wait for late winter before undertaking any root pruning. btw, feeder roots are the first to regenerate when removed or disturbed.

I do agree with Bill's choice of planting mix as well as the omission of mycorrhizae inoculant for any woody plant, firs included. I also wait to fertilize till the next growing season (except for plants in containers). I just pay very close attention to watering.

As the OP is in a much hotter summer climate than mine, I might wait till cooler temps in fall before planting from container to ground.

It is interesting GG about loosening roots on conifers at any time of year.

Once new growth has begun in the late spring and summer, spruce, fir and possibly others have for me, went into a tizzy with major root disturbance during that time.

Generally, new growth has withered or at the least stopped putting on any further new growth for that season.

After the winter buds are set, generally by mid-July, then I can work on roots without consequences.

But I suppose too it's the amount of disturbance that's done that makes the difference whether the plant reacts or not?

Also, I think some of the plants a1an has been dealing with, are a little beyond just untangling roots.

I know many of mine have been bad, with woody, crooked & twisted main roots, plants that many people won't even deal with.

The pot bound trees I've acquired that have been properly root pruned and up potted in a timely fashion, haven't been an issue as I eluded too above. And generally, have been a non issue at planting time.

There are some thoughts that say use a hand saw to shave off inch on three sides of ball