I fertilize all young trees and shrubs with 10-10-10 which I buy in 50 lb. bags from an aggie supply store. Fancy brands just mean big prices. I sprinkle it around the root system in early to mid-spring, depending on when I get around to it. Mature trees and shrubs usually don't need fertilizing, unless there are situations like competition from tree roots, and they need extra food.

Note that tree and shrub feeding roots are mostly in the top 12" of soil, and generally spread far beyond the infamous drip line.

It's pretty amazing how we all have different systems for growing things, and yet we all are pretty happy with the results.

I don't fertilize trees and shrubs, unless a soil test shows that they need something specific. This is probably a good time to admit that I also don't often get my soil tested, therefore I just plain don't fertilize trees and shrubs, even young ones.

I DO prepare the soil very well before I plant woodies, incorporating lots of organic matter. This is not the recommended procedure for plants going into a hole in the ground, but is fine for ones going into a bed. Since I plant everything in beds, I do it this way.

I also top-dress the young plants with mulch and compost every spring, keeping the material well away from the trunk but covering as much of the root ball as possible. Most young woodies that are lost die because of lack of water, and fertilizer is not generally needed; organic mulch helps retain moisture, keeps weeds down, and lets the plant grow at its own pace. It also encourages earthworms, which rapidly erase the line between the soil in the bed and the soil that came with the plant's root ball. This seems to help the plant get established.

Whether you decide to fertilize or not, good luck and welcome to the forum and to Cape Cod. If you fertilize, please make sure you don't apply more than is needed, because excess nitrogen is wreaking havoc with the groundwater and estuaries here on Cape Cod.

Capewillard,
We seem to have many of the same trees growing under similar conditions. Though far from an expert I will share with you my experience attained mostly from trial and error.
Conifer
Fir - Given full sun and water they will do fine but mine no way measure up to the beauties grown elsewhere in New England.
Blue Spruce - Ditto
Cryptomeria japonica - Can and often will do very well on the Cape and Islands. I have late spring frost problems but I still love this one.
Leyland Cypress - As I am sure you were told these are extremely fast growing 3' a year. You may want to consider that when they have reached your desired height and you top them you that doesn't stop them from growing you will need add this to your maintenance list. If you are trying to maintain their width as well don't forget to shear them in a slight pyramid shape other wise the bottoms will be shaded by the upper branches and become sparse. These monsters want water, water, and more water. I suppose you could fertilize them but I don't.
Evergreen
Ilex, Holly - Now here is where I have failed due to lack of fertilizer and it shows. Everything I have learned (now that I have some pretty scrawny specimens) is hollies are heavy, heavy, feeders and this is the year I am going to make up for my neglect. I am hoping someone with more experience might stop by and make a suggestion regarding a heavy feeding plan because I am in the dark. Welcome. kt

Hi capewillard....welcome..I'm fairly new to this sight also and have gotten the best advice and info from the members here...

I am also another Capecodder..I'm a fleetian..meaning from Wellfleet..I try not to fertilize anything cuz we still use wells here and as diggin said and I'm sure you are well aware of the Cape's precarious ecosystem...

Sounds like you have wonderful plans for your garden..hopefully you'll post some pics when it is done..

Done? Please don't wait until it's done, because that may never happen. At least, MY garden will never be done, but then I use the word garden more as a verb than a noun most of the time. Anyway, it's fun to see new gardens develop, isn't it? So, please post some pics, whenever you've got them.

Anyway, hello, Malorn - Wellfleet is beautiful. I'm from the other end, the prosaic Upper Cape (Falmouth / Woods Hole). It's great to find other cape residents here on GW.

Hey, Kt, is this going to make you like Ilex pedunculosa again? Since reading your comments on Longstalk Holly, I've had to admit (to myself) that mine are a slightly sickly shade of green; I wonder if fertilizer will fix that. Could you let me know what you've found out about their optimal treatment? Thanks - DtD

dtd,
I still feel awkwardly insecure about my Ilex pendunculosa, if you were to visit my garden I would feel compelled to chat on and on about why this BUTT UGLY shrub is still growing in my back bed. But if the truth be known...and it is killing me to admit, I now think it's root system is beyond my shovel pruning talents...head hung low in defeat. In my attempt to shield other visitor's from such a horrific sight I plan on tip pruning (last years pruning made a difference) and consistent heavy pruning. I am still hoping for some advise. kt

I planted 8 fairly large (10 gallon pots) Arborvitae last Spring. I did some reading and asked the nursery staff about planting and was advised not to fertilize new plantings in the first year. There will be minimal top growth in the first year and it should not be encouraged by fertilizing. Also that there is no need to amend average topsoil in the planting hole.

A newly planted tree or shrub will spend months or even years establishing a good root system. The larger the specimen the longer it will take. Apparently smaller transplants will suffer less transplant shock and may establish themselves and start growing at a faster rate than large transplants.

Digging an adequately sized hole is important, as well as regular watering throughout the first year. The plants should not be allowed to dry out.

After a few months, I mulch all my evergreen transplants with compost and leaves to preserve moisture and provide nutrients. For the most part I use compost only to fertilize evergreens.