You can try beneficial nematodes. Best time is to use it in the during the break during the storms so they can get washed down into the ground.

Here is a link that might be useful: Beneficial Nematodes

St.Augustine is not really subject to thatch. What ever you do, do not try to dethatch St. Augustine as the machine will tear the sod out of the ground. As far as treatment for chinch bugs, unless your neighboirs treat for them also you will continue to have infestations so you might want to make 2 or 3 treatments with beneficial nematodes.

Okay. This is the third time this year I've read about chinch bugs in St. A. What are they? What are the signs? How are they prevented?

Thanks.

Brizzy, I will attempt to answer your question. First, do a search for "organic controls + chinch bug". Some good information to be found there. Now some additional thoughts:

1. It is important that organic gardeners study their property daily looking for and treating problems as spotted. Every type of mowed lawn grass, northern or southern, provides a welcoming home to chinch bug. They are not fussy.

2. The three common ways that they are transported into a yard is they are blown on the wind from a neighboring property or arrive on mowing equipment by contract lawn care companies. However, the most common way is on southern grown, balled and burlaped shrubs and trees. Usually the first signs of lawn cinch bug will be spotted during the summer heat just outside newly established landscaped beds. There is nothing you can do to prevent cinch bug from camping on your lawn except to be alert for the tell-tale signs and begin treatment early.

3. Watch your lawn very carefully for spots that appear to be "thinning", perhaps turning a bit brown. Chinch bug can easily be identified on hands and knees at high noon on a sunny day when they are most active and visible. Run a hand over the suspect lawn area, parting the grass and if the problem is chinch bug you should see zillions of very tiny, shiny black bugs running around. There is no mistaking them. On-line searching should be very helpful for identifying and treating chinch bug organically.

stbonner, it is very easy to confuse cause and effect when it comes to chinch bugs. The insect favors the drier parts of the lawn and will migrate to those areas where irrigation does not reach. One treats for chinch bugs and fails to recognise the sprinkler shortcomings and the problem will recur in times of drought. The insect punctures the sheath part of the leaf and sucks the plant sap. Because it can be so well protected I seriously doubt that an oil spray will get it in its adult stage (black) though it might have some effect on the young stages (red). Both stages will have the white/silvery marking on the back. If I had to deal with St. Augustine turf under an organic regimen, I'd make sure that the sprinkler coverage is total and at least once a month I'd monitor for insects by soap flushing. In the days of organo phosphates, if one got 10 to 12 insects (all stages) per sq.ft. it was time to spray. In these times, I'd shampoo the lawn with a dishwashing liquid (containing lemon juice) once a month as a preventative measure and if I found 5 to 6 chinch bugs per sq. ft. I'd treat with something curative.
Hope this helps.