urea is not organic fertilizer and it works very fast. Not needed. SBM is plenty and centipede will use nitrogen as needed.

Thanks lou. I will defintely skip the urea. I put down the 40 lb bag of Milorganite in the front yard and the SBM in the back Saturday morning. We received a good bit of rain that afternoon. =)

I noticed several areas of slime mold similar to the ones alabama lowlife mentioned in a previous posting.(http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/orglawn/msg0709275020498.html?3 I checked again on Sunday and it appears that Saturday's rain washed some of it off the blades.

When is a good time to apply muriate of potash? The feed store where I purchased the SBM has 50lb bags of Hi Yield brand muriate of potash for $12.

TCampbell That is a lot of potash for 8500 sq ft of lawn. DO NOT PUT THAT DOWN , until you have a reliable soil test indicating the need for potassium. If you embrace organic lawn maintenance, you will not need chemicals on your lawn. Feed your lawn with Soy bean meal or Corn gluten meal. Increase and improve the microbes and microscopic insects in your lawns soil. If you feel the need to put something down every week, Let that something be compost.

Okay, I am really showing my ignorance here. So the muriate of potash is not organic. Hmmm... I was only going to put down about 1 pound per 1K sq ft of it. I had a Lesco soil sample done that recommended 4lbs of K per 1K sq ft for the front yard and 5lbs of K per 1k sq ft for the back yard What is a good organic source of potassium? I have put down enough nitrogen, maybe I will just leave well enough alone until next year. Thanks for the info billhill. Here are the results of my soil samples:

Back Yard:

Soil pH - 5.0
Buffer pH - 6.47
Pounds per Acre Available Nutrient:
P - 37
K - 106
Ca - 857
Mg - 152
Caption Exchange Cap - 9.3
% Base Saturation:
K - 1.5
Ca - 23
Mg - 7
H - 68.4

It was recommended that I apply 50lbs/M of Lime (Mg), and 1.5 - 2.5lbs of N, 1.5lbs of P, and 4.0lbs of K per 1K sq ft.

Front Yard:

Soil pH - 4.8
Buffer pH - 6.30
Pounds per Acre of Available Nutrient:
P - 34
K - 77
Ca - 808
Mg - 193
Caption Exchange Cap - 11.3
% Base Saturation:
K - 0.9
Ca - 18
Mg - 7
H - 74.3

75lbs/M of Lime(Mg),same N and P requirements as the back yard, and 5lbs of K per 1K sq ft.

No instances of Na, Fe, Mn, Zn, or Cu found in the soil.

I had a Lesco soil sample done that recommended 4lbs of K per 1K sq ft for the front yard and 5lbs of K per 1k sq ft for the back yard What is a good organic source of potassium?

OK! The objection was that you shouldn't put it down until you had the soil tested--which you did. Go ahead and apply it, but not at a high rate. K can burn if overdone all at once.

1 lb of K per thousand square feet should be fine, although I imagine it's hot and humid in Georgia in July. Perhaps step down to 0.5 or a bit less at first, and add it progressively once a month or so.

The soybean you added has a rating of about 7-1-2 (very arguable, however), so you added some K when you put that down.

I do see that your pH is...bad, but the buffer pH is reasonable. Fortunately, organic methods will shift that toward neutral. Unfortunately, it's not a fast process. :-) Lime's a good idea, but in fall when the weather cools down and it has all winter to work.

1 lb of N at a time is just fine--and organics process fairly slowly. If you put down enough soybean to get 2.5 lbs of N it'll stink and your neighbors will not like you. :-)

Thanks for the info morpheuspa! I may just cool it on the nitrogen for this season. I applied 100lbs of SBM in May and followed that up with 40lbs of Milorganite and 50lbs of SBM this past Saturday. I don't want to increase my chances of centipede decline in the future.

What is a good organic source of potassium? I recall reading a post about greensand. Also, what type of lime should I look for when I get ready to apply it in the fall.