I would suggest Trachycarpus fortunei. Planted my large containerized specimens three years ago and so far so good. Their trunks were wrapped for the first winter, then no protection. All three are planted on the south side of the house and get a lot of sun--especially in the Winter (no leaves on trees then). You could also try Sabal louisiana or Raphidophyllym (but the latter is slow growing). Another good Trachycarpus is the species wagnerianus if you cn get one.

I found Sabal 'Louisiana' disappointing ... mine defoliates regularly from cold. Same with Brazoria. The Sabal Birmingham is still small. It froze back quite a bit too, but it was in a more open location.

You should give regular Sabal minor a try. They're a pretty tough little palm.

My one Needle that is in a western (windy) exposure had spear pull from this winter, but is growing back. The one on the South Side is growing gangbusters. These are NOT SLOW if they're planted correctly and happy (hot site, good rich soil, moisture, and fert.). If they have to compete with big tree roots they won't grow as fast. This one has more than doubled in size since it was planted. We may be a warmer zone 7 than you in summer.

Hey Dave! Funny, my brazoria has done very well! Suffered some leave damage, but no defoliation. This tree is out in the open and the only protection I gave her was a blanket during the 2 really cold snaps we had over the winter.

Does njoasis have trackys surviving uncovered planted on a south side of a house or something or are you south Jersey? I have a tracky takil that is doing well but was informed to cover it for sure in the winter. Maybe on my south side it will not need as much protection - the building is 3 tall stories.

Can you believe they are selling sabal minors in Lowes here in Brookly. First time I ever saw a coldtolerant palm advertised here and they are distiguished by their blue containers. They sell for $70 for a good clump of three. Mine bloomed this year when I put it in the ground in April. Do you suggest to cover these Dave.

Greg, I am in the vecinity of Fort Lee (easternmost Bergen County). I planted mine only when they got tooooo big for containers (that was three years ago). I protected the trunks only the first winter (insulating blanket) then stopped. They face directly south and are a few feet away from the house. In the Winter they they get a lot of sun, one is somewhat shaded in the Summer by a maple. I'll eventually experiment with a few Sabals (louisiana is a robust grower). I have a needle currently containerized but they really are a lot slower than Trachycarpus (everything being relative). Sabal minors, though cold hardy, is also painfully slow. Eventually, I get around to experimenting with T. wagnerianus, Butia capitata (Pindo palm). Most of the palm collection is much more tropical but i also have a growing variety of the cold hardier containerized ones (Sabal lousiana, S. palmetto, S. mexicana, Trachycarpus wagnerianus--in addition to the less cold hardy T. latisecytus and T. martianus, Pindo, Needle, and Chamaerops (Med. fans). The latter one might be worth a dry as long has your soil has excellent drainage (ADD SAND--A LOT) and grow in a raised bed if possible. Years ago, I lost a needle in the winter so I would protect--especially for the first Winter or even until it gets bigger. So who says palms are addicting?! PS., I'm seeing Butias, Silver Meds, Needles popping up all over the big stores now in those blue pots,

I plant needles 3 to 5" deeper than in the container to increase initial hardiness. Doing this enables even 1 stemmed gallons to survive their first winter (mulched well) with only slight damage. I'm referring to needles planted in the open with full wind exposure in zone 7. I fertilize palms spring through September; especially young ones I want to push. Epsom salts green up needles and trachys. A fall application reduces the late winter bronzing on these two species. Here are a few palmy pics taken in N.J

Louisianas from seed

trachys, minors, louisianas from seed
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trachys & louisianas from seed
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trachy wagnerianus
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minors

needles

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Their only winter protection

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. There are numerous hardy palms surviving outdoors, many without protection, in and around Washington, DC. Needle palms (Rhapidophyllum hystrix) and dwarf palmettos (Sabal minor) are quite hardy here once established and there are plenty of older, well-established specimens (including a huge needle palm at the National Arboretum that's about 30 years old). Long-term windmill palms (Trachycarpus fortunei) are harder to come by, but they're out there, primarily in private gardens.

Needle palms--this is the big one at the National Arboretum, photographed in April a few years ago. It's hard to tell the scale from this photo, but the tips of the fronds are 9 or 10 feet above the ground:

This particularly nice one was growing on a city street near me, and was about 7-8 feet tall--unfortunately it had to be removed last year due to the city digging up water pipes that ran under it:

Very nicely grown Sabal minor in a private garden in Alexandria, VA:

A grouping of Sabal minor in a bed at the Air & Space Museum in downtown Washington, DC:

In the same bed at the Smithsonian, a windmill palm:

BTW the above windmill palm, and the ones following, are all growing without protection of any kind; however, all are growing in very sheltered locations, or otherwise favorable microclimates.

In a private garden in Alexandria (note also the needle palm):

Same palm from a different angle:

Nice specimen in a private garden in Silver Spring, MD:

This shot of the same palm gives a better sense of scale:

Several more in a private garden in Arlington, VA (note also the needle palms and Sabal minor):