Software
Houzz Logo Print
pyratejim

Reversable POSSIBLE Root Rot?

20 years ago

Continuing from my last post, I have the following:

(all came bare root)

-1 Sabal Palmetto Birmingham, 3 fans approx. 18" in length

-1 T. Takil (Kumaon Palm), 5 leaves, approx. 12" in length

-2 T. Takil (WIndmill Palm), 3 leaves, approx. 8" in length

-5 R. hystric (Florida Needle), 3 leaves each, approx. 8" in length

-5 Sabal Palmetto Louisiana, 3 leaves each, approx. 8" in length.

They were planted in Miracle Grow Potting Soil with drainage holes in the botom of the planters. The leaves are turning brown and dying pretty quickly now. Even with no rain or watering, the potting soil is still very damp. Pulling out one of the brown, dead leaves, the root was very wet, yet appearing viable so I replanted it.

Is it possible that the potting soil is holding too much water on its own and that is causing the browning and wilting or is this just a normal thing with such young plants and I am over reacting? I am willing to repot in a better draining soil if that will help any or bring them all back into the house

Anything? I dont want to loose even one palm if at all possible.

Thanks to all for any and all help, from a newbie.

Comments (9)

  • 20 years ago

    I would use this soil. http://www.premierhort.com/eProMix/Horticulture/fHorticulture.htm
    The quality is much higher than Miracle grow. The peat doesn't pack, its like a sponge and the high amount of perlite makes the soil drain quickly.

  • 20 years ago

    Just add lots of perilite and that will help also. I make my own soil and several palms are different in what they require as in whether they hold lots of water or not so much. And in pots kept in the house I think that most will want well drained soil.

  • 20 years ago

    I was prepared to blame excessively large containers, but I looked at your pics and that doesn't seem to be the problem. (Palms like to be slightly pot bound and prefer deep pots to wide pots.) For good drainage, I add perlite, coase sand, and a bit of gypsum to a humusy base mix. Be careful about changing the soil level though on those already potted palms. Its normal for some leaves to discolor and drop in the process of acclimating to a new environment. Let the soil dry somewhat before rewatering. (If you run into a rainy period--get them into the dry indoors.) I wouldn't fertilize until I see new growth and then only a very weak application.

  • 20 years ago

    Adding lump charcoal to the soil mix will help if it is a drainage problem. I have been told that lava rock works well also.

  • 20 years ago

    We're starting to get into our raining season up here (yes, Michigan does have one of those - it's between construction and winter) and moving them indoors is not an option on a day to day basis. I've just installed a roll tarp over the bench I have them on that can be easily let down to cover them up on a hard rain day, or to help trap some humidity on really hot, dry days. Also built a spacer under each container so that they can fully drain verses sitting on the container bottom and not allowing the water to go anywhere. I can add more perlite and some sand to the soil by repotting them in a homemade soil mixture and not replant them any deeper than where they are now, but will it hurt them any more to transplant them a second time in 3 weeks? Remember, I got them bare root shipped with just some wet moss wrapped around the roots.

    Although I've seen more brown and "dying" leaves than new growth (havent seen any of that in the 2.5 weeks I've had them, it looks like I may not be at a total lose here.

    Thanks for all the help. IF anyone is in the s/e michigan area, zone 6b, I sure would like to meet you. Forums are great, but there is nothing better than meeting someone with a like interest and MORE KNOWLEDGE and EXPERIENCE to help guide you along in the beginning.

  • 20 years ago

    It's been 5 days since the palms last got water. It's rained, but they have been covered so the most they may get is a little spray, but nothing more. Just them last night and pushing on the tops soil still produces water around my finger. As good draining as this soil is, it is still saturated and my seedlings/yearlings are dying. I'm translplanting them this afternoon into a "cactus/tropical soil" for even better drainage. Hopefully the transplant wont shock them too much as they have only ben in their current containers for about 3 weeks now and never been dry.

  • 20 years ago

    You may want to try a blend of your favorite mix, ( Miracle-Gro, Stay Green,etc), With about 30% Perlite added.

    This would improve drainage and give you some control over how damp these stay during the Winter months.

    Just my 2 cents worth...:-)

  • 20 years ago

    I see David already mentioned Perlite.... Sorry for repeating that - I should pay more attention.

    Cactus Mix would work, Personally I don't care for it, Seems to turn rock hard if you let it dry too much.

  • 20 years ago

    Broke down yesterday and repotted all of them. Used the same potting soil from the containers, but mixed in 1-1/2 cups of sand and 1-1/2 - 2 cups perlite per container. I saw lots of new root growth on many of them, a few already hit the bottom of the containers (2-3 inches in 3 weeks). One of the Needles was toast, or so I believe as everything fell right out of the root ball it was so wet. I replanted the rootball with the remains of a single, empty stalk and will see what, if anything will happen. I had almost the same with two of the Sabal Palmetto Louisiana, (everything stayed intact though) but I think I may have gotten to them in time.

    Once I replanted, I did not water. Should I, and if so, should I use just straight rain water, or can I add a lite mixture of liquid root growth and plant stabilizer to help with the repotting shock?

    THANKS

Sponsored