I'd posted a note a few days ago mentioning similar results to those you had--haven't received any replies so far. I have read a lot of the posts reporting the same results as yours and mine. Mine are mainly very poor germination and when something does sprout, very leggy and fragile plants with extremely slow growth (tops of carrots planted on 4/26 are about 1" tall). I can only say that in reading the other posts, water does seem to be very critical and most of the solutions to these problems involved either completely replacing the mix with good topsoil or at the very least adding some into the mix. When the endless rain finally stopped I began to water daily, neither the rain nor the watering seemed to make any difference. I can only conclude that for whatever reason the water is running right down to the bottom of the mix where it is accessible only for established plantings such as herbs and strawberries, which are doing well. Also the grass around the beds is looking very good, indicating there has been enough water for some things to grow! In the fall we will be adding some good garden soil to the mix and will hope for a positive change. I love the concept of the SFG method and will continue to use it, but in my case at least, and also it appears quite a few others, the mix needs a little modification.

I don't know if this is your first year, but generally we've found on this forum that 1st year you need to add some fertilizer. We think the compost purchased might not have been finished before being sold. My first year, I thought I was watering plenty, and then found only the top two inches were wet. I think that might be due to using new dry peat moss. I made an alpine strawberry bed early this spring and it took more than the torrential rains we had to get it wet. Now in my third year SFG, my soil stays nice and moist. If not thoroughly wet, the soil shrinks and the water runs down the side of the beds.
Hope this helps.
Keski

Thanks very much for your response. I hope this doesn't sound like a very stupid question. This is the second year for this garden. Last year's seemed good for the most part, this year's is not. I will add some fertilizer around the plants and will mix in some garden soil in the fall after the plants are done. While I find it hard to believe that with day after day of really torrential rains this spring, the peat moss would be dry, it IS dry below 2" deep--tho wet at the very bottom of the beds. My question then is if the rain didn't wet it, how should I water to get it wet? Is drip irrigation the only thing that works? And once it really gets wet, will it stay wet with regular watering such as one would give a non-sfg garden (I've always heard 1" a week should be enough)? One concern is we are on a well and I can't water for hours every day. Again I apologize if this is a stupid question, and would appreciate your input. Thanks.

It is really hard to get peat moss wet. Some people take the bale and run a hose into it, very slowly. I've noticed from my uses in perennial beds that it usually gets a thorough soaking during our winters (let it snow, let it snow, let it snow)! LOL
Probably a soaker hose would help. They aren't too expensive and can add water very slowly,too.
Mine seems to stay wet now that I am in my third year of SFG. Only the top inch or so has dried out on the few hot days we've had.
Good Luck,
Keski

Just a thought, this year to soak a bale of peat moss, I just left the bale out and slit open the top - flooded the bag and let it sit for a few days. Added water as needed.

When I needed to use the peat, I just shoveled it out into the wheelbarrow and hosed it a bit more if it'd needed mixing in. It's stayed nice and damp so far, and all the peat I used in a mix (2/5 peat, 2/5 vermiculite, 1/5 topsoil) for a new potato bed has worked beautifully, as well! I've been pleased with this... less labor, more 'lazy sit back and wait'. ;)

Does it make a big difference whether you have bottoms on your boxes or not? Seems to me like wood bottoms with drainage holes would cause the water to drain out less rapidly and thus allow more thorough soaking of the peat moss. I went bottomless (aside from a wire barrier to keep the moles out) on the theory that allowing the plants to send roots below the box into the ground underneath would be beneficial. Which approach will work better?

This might be a bit long, apologies in advance. I really appreciate the interest of you guys responding. I did some more googling and came up with a lot of folks reporting some growth problems; one observation seemed to be that after a few years things get better, that is after adding more and more compost with each new planting. Hmmmmm. That would surely change the mix composition. I wasn't after complaints, just solutions. First I checked the current website and verified that it does indeed seem to say that the mix is a complete soil which can be added as is to the bed and becomes the planting medium. I don't have the new book, so I went to the original one I still have. It says to dig some test holes in the garden and if there are a lot of rocks, etc., sift the soil. Then add lots of compost or leaf mold, vermiculite and peat **(at least 25 % of the volume of the soil, and if in really bad shape, add as much as 50%)**. I won't retype the entire directions, but clearly it is intended that there be soil in the bed as well as the amendments. Also there is a recipe for the perfect soil which consists of peat, vermic, sand, wood ashes and charcoal, lime and fertilizer. It starts by saying to remove the top 4" of soil from the block and pile it to one side. It never refers to this top soil again. Dig out to the depth desired, 12" if very poor soil, mix the materials and dampen them (don't soak), fill the block and turn **to mix it well with the soil in the bottom of the hole**. Spray as you mix. Level, add enough additional to fill the hole, spray and ready to go. Of course things have changed and the sfg method has evolved, I realize, and my intention is only to try to figure out why my garden is dry no matter what the watering amounts and my results have been so poor so far after trying to follow the instructions exactly.

What do do? I can't do anything major now that the garden is planted as to the soil mix, but in the fall will be adding the Miracle-Gro garden soil for vegetables in considerable amounts to the mix in there now. The soaker hose is a great idea to try to improve things for this year, thanks for the tip! More water for the existing situation and hopefully the soil will lessen the need for it in the future. I do have to say that the areas around my beds are just grass in not so great soil, but with the overhead watering I've been doing, along with the spring rains, the grass is growing very well and requires a lot of mowing and trimming to keep it down. Yet the garden is just sitting there.

Also somewhere in my readings I believe the recommendation for a wood bottom would only be for the elevated beds. I really don't think one should have to trap water if the soil mix is right. Not that yours isn't, but gardens have grown well for centuries without that! I think the solution to most of these problems will be cured with the addition of some topsoil and fertilizer.

Grateful for your help, nice to know it is available. I will keep you posted as things move on. I ain't no expert, far from it, but something just doesn't seem right with so many people reporting the same results. And again I realize millions have had great success with this, so I am sure it is something I either misunderstood or just plain am doing wrong.

sound like he did not mix the soil thoroughly enough.

My experience with Mel's mix was much the same. Terrible with seeds but ok with established seedlings. Also watering requirements was every other day. Next year I'll add some potting soil to increase density.