I finally remembered the HTML code it takes to post pics online. Lets see if it works here.

Here is more on the diseases I have on my tomatoes.

Whatever this was, the mix of Maneb and Neem oil seems to have stopped it, or at least slowed it down so much it no longer matters.

Some of my plants are actually beginning to recover, including one I thought was dead.

Hi, what is the mixture that you used to stop the problem, and how did you apply it? I have a similar issue where leaves are turning yellow, then brown and dying. It's only affecting about 10% of the plant but I want to stop it before it gets out of hand!

Thanks.

For future identification, I'll take a stab:

Picture 1 looks like old powdery mildew infection (or serious phosphorus deficiency from cold or seedling soilless mix) with an early blight spot in the middle of it;

Picture 2 is an old leaf with some of the same;

Picture 3 has tomato speck (Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato);

Picture 4 might have a couple of early blight lesions, but it's aging out anyway;

Pictures 5 and 6 (on the next post) have more speck;

Pictures 7 and 8 look like leaf mold (Cladosporium fulvum), though early blight is also a possibility. The yellowing is broader than the usual haloes from early blight, though, and there aren't nearly so many brown spots.

Most of these were older leaves, which makes sense. Speck is an early-season seedling disease, rarely fatal except with very small plants in warm humid conditions like greenhouses... as the weather dries out and the plants grow up, it ceases to be a problem. Ditto phosphorus deficiency, which fades as the roots get larger and the soil warms up. Early blight and leaf mold both attack the lowest leaves first; spores for those come from the soil surface and tomato plant debris from the previous year. The same sprays will treat both, and proper cleanup at year's end and mulching in the spring will diminish the amount of disease you get.

It's amazing how resilient tomato plants are, isn't it? I'm glad yours have recovered, and they will work mightily to catch up in the warm weather now. :)

--Alison

The spray was a mix of Maneb (no longer available) and Neem oil. I need to keep up with spraying or it recurs.

It's amazing how resilient tomato plants are, isn't it? I'm glad yours have recovered, and they will work mightily to catch up in the warm weather now. :)

--Alison
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I am in Miami, FL. and I am just trying to keep some plants alive thru summer to see if they will set fruit when it finally cools off.

RE: More Leaf Diseases

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* Posted by twalk67 California (My Page) on
Wed, Jun 30, 10 at 3:50

Hi, what is the mixture that you used to stop the problem, and how did you apply it? I have a similar issue where leaves are turning yellow, then brown and dying. It's only affecting about 10% of the plant but I want to stop it before it gets out of hand.

Thanks.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I mix a small amount of Maneb and a small amount of Neem in a 1qt. sprayer and fill with water then shake. The plants have to have ALL diseased leaves removed before spraying. Spray tops and bottoms of all leaves until wet. Spraying should be done just long enough before sundown to allow leaves to dry before nightfall.

Another plant I thought was dead is beginning to recover. Whatever attacked it doesn't seem to be very persistent.

It's still recovering.

Here is another sampling of more of my problems.

garf,

To be able to suggest what might be wrong with your plants, it would be helpful to know more about the environment it is in. So, here are the "usual" questions:

What growing medium are you using? How large is the container? Is it self-watering or do you manually water it? Is the container in full sun, part sun or shade?

It looks like you have succulent plants in the container with the tomatoes? Is that correct?

How often do you water? Have you checked the moisture of the growing medium or soil 3-5" below the surface? Is it dry, just right, or soggy? Are you feeding the plant? How often? What are the NPK values of any fertilizers you are using to feed it? What has the weather been like in your area?

The more information you can give us, the better the chances that someone can give you an accurate diagnosis.

Betsy

OK, here goes. They are all in various size pots, from 1 to 6 gallons. The soil is local nursery "potting" mix, which has proved to be too heavy, cut with various amounts of perlite, and mixed with composted cow manure. Non self watering pots. Full sun. The thing that looks like a succulent is a sick marigold plant, We have been getting a tremendous amount of rain. The plants were fed once with 6-7-7. I must have overdid it because it killed most of the plants. Listing this stuff makes me realize just how wrong my setup is. I think I need to start over. The nursery "potting mix" is a mix of everglades muck and sand.

Dirt is not potting mix. You need to buy some decent starting mix or mix your own with milled sphagnum and perlite/vermiculite. No fertilizer is needed for seedlings.

Aloe vera and tomatoes do not belong together. They take completely different watering schedules.

You need to read, read and read before starting again.

Aloe vera and tomatoes do not belong together. They take completely different watering schedules.

I had a washtub that has been here for 30 years that I know of. It was full of Aloe, so I ripped one out and put a tomato plant in its place. It took off like a rocket. It was the darkest green plant I had. It got defoliated by hornworms, then came back. Later it got spider mites and that was that. I never watered it.