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cdgtxs

Watering Tomatoes (Drip Irrigation)

17 years ago

Hello , this is my first year using drip tape to water my tomatoes and I am wondering about a few things maybe experienced drip irrigation growers can help me with. I have .6 gph emitters at 12" spacing . Tomato plants are on 2' spacing(Too close , but can't be helped this year) so there is an emitter at each plant and one between each plant.I water about 3 hours twice a week if needed. Now , what I am wondering is : the emitters do not seem to spread the moisture in a very large diameter, am I creating a small diameter root structure that will not support the plants when hot summer (Nearly here) hits.Also , I ran one row of drip tape about 3" from transplants when planting.Do you think I should add another run of drip tape on the other side of the plants to create a larger diameter watering area?? I have a clay soil heavily ammended with leaf mold for the past 5/6 years , and everything seems to be doing all right except some droop/wilt on 90+ days(96 today) and am fishing for suggestions and advice for the coming months.

THANKS

CDGTXS

Comments (10)

  • 17 years ago

    main problem is matching environmental conditions with the amount of time to run the drip. Too much or too little watering is the main problem. I would get a digital programmable timer and program it depending on the ten day weather report. The point of a drip system for me is that it requires less monitoring not more. Make sure you mulch and have adequate drainage. You will not typically get a large wet patch on the surface since the emitter drips slowly and gravity and surface drying take care of the rest. Get a moisture meter and check around your plant for moisture distribution. If you have good soil aeration, the water should spread out equally. I have noticed that different plants have different moisture needs also.

  • 17 years ago

    I really don't know but I think I would drag the emitters 6 inches length wise so that they would water on each side of a plant rather than right at the plant. That would place an emitter 6 inch on each side. What do others think?

  • 17 years ago

    I'm using T-Tape with 1 foot emitters and 18 inch spacing under plastic outdoors. Works fine, you may only see a small circle wet on the surface but it widens as you go deeper in the soil profile. Not to worry, it will work fine.

    Tim

  • 17 years ago

    Thanks!!! I could just see visions of one long skinny root system :-)
    CDGTXS

  • 17 years ago

    From what I understand with drippers is that the water dispersing is dependent on the type of soil you have. I have a heavy clay soil too. Water tends to disperse wider that deeper with our kind of soils. Where as sandy loam type soils will drain deeper than wider. I think you will be fine. However I prefer a longer less frequent watering schedule. Good luck.

    Damon

  • 17 years ago

    I started using drip emitters a few years ago and agree with Damon - figure out the timing so the plants will have longer, less frequent morning watering.

    When it's 95+ degrees here, I also turn the system on for a bit in the early evening.

    I usually water more frequently earlier in the season, since the root system hasn't developed/spread. Eventually, backing off on the frequency and increasing the duration will benefit the plants.

    Last year, inconsistent watering created a lot of blossom end rot. This year, I'll take control of the timer from my hubby. (We have a cheap timer that has only 2 programs for 7 zones. And it seems like the timer gets shut off during a rainy spell and then forgotten...)

    When I coddled my plants, I grew monsters with no fruit. A bit of neglect and they fruit like mad.

  • 17 years ago

    I know its kind of high-jacking the thread, but you all are so help full. I am very-very sandy soil, very dry Colorado. 3 foot spacing. I am wondering if I should use 2 emitters to each plant? One on each side. I supposed the way to find out would be to dig down in between plants to see if the water was spreading or if it just was local to the root If I do need to, it would be better now than when too late.
    Kenny

  • 17 years ago

    you can also use a drip-ring that will go around the stem, you can find them at any hydroponics store or online.

  • 17 years ago

    colokid- I would assume it is sandy over a clay base. You should put in a nice topsoil mix on top preferably a raised bed. If not, it doesn't really matter if you have more emitters. The 3 feet between is enough to max out coverage in the lane, just run them longer. The spacing issues only come into play if you are growing in pots or microgardening with spacers. Also, if you are trying a water conservation approach. If not, saturate the soil.Once the water drips down the moisture will spread out underground. Most important thing is keeping moisture levels consistant. no wet dry, wet dry. Either always on dry side or always wet side, the plant will adapt.

  • 17 years ago

    *I would assume it is sandy over a clay base. *
    No. Just the opposite A foot or two down is pure old river bed sand down 30 foot to water. When I first started, before I built up the top soil, a garden hose would only run down 3 or 4 foot of row- then soak down and quit. Weather or not the emitters will soak out the foot and a half between, shouldn't be too hard to tell after I run for a while. The weeds will let me know. Nice bunch of people here.
    Kenny