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brandyray

Fertilizer question- hope someone can help!

19 years ago

I have had tomatoes here all 3 yrs I have been here and I have not had a really good yr yet. My soil is sandy and acidic. I have kept adding mulch (hardwood), and well-rotted horse manure. This yr I finally had my soil tested. I would like to add the amendments this wkend so I can then put down newspaper to discourage the weeds, but the experts at the extension office had already gone home- 2 p.m.! The recommendations were .8T lime, 90-120 N, 0-20 Phosphate, 30-50 potash, and 1.0 boron.

I have blood meal (12-0-0) and bone meal (6-12-0)and some wood ashes I could add but I'm not sure how much, and I don't know if I should add any lime now because my plants are already in the ground and lime is supposed to be added months in advance (I did add some in the fall). This garden is 25 x 10 ft. (250 sq. ft.)

I thought I could add the supplements, then water well.

I hope some garden expert can help... Thanks! Brandy

Comments (11)

  • 19 years ago

    Are their recommendations per 1000 square feet or per acre? What are the units? pounds? tons? what's .8T lime?

  • 19 years ago

    Sorry if I wasn't clear- 8 tons of lime per acre,
    the fertilizer is pounds per acre.

  • 19 years ago

    You'd need about 8 lbs of blood meal for EVERY pound of N, so that alone would be 720 to 960 lbs of bloodmeal per acre! I'd have to figure out how much for 250 sq feet, I forgot how many sq ft per acre, 43500 or something. I'd say around 4 to 5.5 lbs of bloodmeal, maybe as much bonemeal to get the phosphate, but neither bloodmeal or bonemeal have potash, so would have to find the K of wood ash. I think 250 sq ft is around 1/174th of an acre. You'd need about 14-15 lbs of 0-0-7 to equal 1 lb of K... so about 2.5 to 4 lbs of 0-0-7 for 250 sq ft.

  • 19 years ago

    If 8 Tons, that would be about 92 lbs of lime per 250 sq ft. If it's .8 (that's 0.8T) it would be 9.2 lbs per 250 sq ft. The first post it looked like you typed .8, the second of your posts it's 8.

  • 19 years ago

    Typical wood ash is around 0-0-7 to 0-1-7...

  • 19 years ago

    .8 T / AC of lime is actually not very much at all. Depending on your CE and EC your pH is probably around 6.0 - 6.2

    You could get away with no P.

    Your required K is low also.

    1.0 is high for a boron recommendation.

  • 19 years ago

    The lime recommendation is .8T
    The pH is 6.2
    The soil here is very poor- lots of lichen and moss in the woods.
    I did not realize it would take so much of the blood meal and bone meal. I will use the rest of what I have- a couple lbs. I think I better get some more fish emulsion and plan to use it regularly. I will have to check on what the ratio is for fish emulsion.
    Would you add lime now? I guess I could add some in between the hills w/o damaging my tomato plants (my garden is laid out in large hills w/ paths in between- I find it easier to maintain that way).
    I appreciate everyone's help! Brandy

  • 19 years ago

    Fish emulsion is often 4-1-1 or 5-1-1. Neptune's Harvest is 2-4-1. Neptune's is actually the better ratio for tomatoes but you have other needs. Many extension agencies often recommend 75lbs N per acre to grow many types of vegetables to just about anybody/everybody, so you can see how much difference your soil is with a 90-120 N recommendation.

    You may be better off foliar feeding your tomatoes with Neptune's regularly/often for this season and then work on things in the fall for next season.

  • 19 years ago

    Don't know if this will help but I ran across this set of conversion/application tables while looking for other info so thought I'd post for you...just in case it might help. It's for KY but the Soil Prep section should be applicable for all and it covers both organic and chemical application needs based on both 100 sq.' and 1000 sq.'. I hope it might be of help.

    As to adding now vs. later - if I picture your "mounds" correctly, I don't see why you should have any problems amending now around them. I use raised wide-bed mounds too in some of my beds and have never had a problem with adding amendments to the valleys, knowing they will be incorporated into the entire bed in the fall. The soil and plants derive some benefits now and even more next year.

    Good luck as it sounds like you have some major work ahead of you. ;)

    Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Prep

  • 19 years ago

    Would you add lime now? I guess I could add some in between the hills w/o damaging my tomato plants...

    brandyray, yes you can add ~10# lime now to your 250 sq ft plot. But to be available (to buffer pH) this season, it needs to have a very fine effective size consist. Even the pulverized stuff is not fast acting. I bought a 40# bag of a "pellitized" dolomitic limestone that was said to start significant activity at first exposure to moisture. You will know you have pitched upon it because, compared to granular or pulverized limestone, it carries a price premium. However it is very easy to apply and makes very little of the "dust" that the pulverized versions create.

    Reg

  • 19 years ago

    You gardeners are terrific and I appreciate your suggestions!
    What I have arrived at for now, I applied the rest of the blood meal and bone meal and a cup of ashes to each hill, and then I watered well. I will look for the pellitized limestone next wk and add it to the base of the hills, and I will buy some more fish emulsion and try to use it more regularly this summer. I guess if I wait til the last of the summer to take another soil sample, I might be able to find out what to add before I plant next yrs tomatoes :)
    Thanks! Brandy
    (Thanks too Digdirt- I added that chart to my favorites list so I can find it again.)

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