My opinion would be white. You don't want the vanity to blend into the walls, you want it to stand out as a fixture. Good luck.

Thanks! I was leaning towards white but I didn't even think about the vanity blending in with the wall. Great point!

Hi, I'd go with white, but not a stark white since your vanity is an antique white. If you make the beadboard "too white" your vanity may look dingy. Offset the white a bit so that it has a bit of warmth.

I think a subtle difference in whites in a room can look great and more three-dimentional. There are a gazillion whites and you could go with something slightly softer than stark white if you wanted.

Lanie, that looks great. Where is the vanity from if you don't mind me asking? It looks like Restoration Hardware.

Thank you! No, it was not RH. My husband & I did exhaustive internet shopping for most of the pieces in 2 baths. He thinks this vanity was from a site called express decor but doesn't recall for sure. If something I liked on houzz didn't seem accessible I would google a description of what I wanted to start sourcing materials. I still need to change out that hardware...

The site was HomeDecorators.com.

I've heard good things about their vanities, thanks so much for the reply!

I would take the wainscoting (beadboard) higher - 5'?. Four feet would cut the room in half and would probably look kind of wimpy.

Hi, typical switch/outlet height is 4' to the center or bottom of the box. The wainscot shown in one of the pictures is around three feet...with a 36" custom modern cabinet. Your antique cabinets may be the older 32" version...sized for kids and smaller adults, not the giants we seem to be breeding now. Missing higher or lower than the electrical boxes makes the trim out of the fixture cleaner. At 4'4" your chair rail is interrupted by the switch or outlet...and a bit of a nightmare to make look good. Jogging chair rail around boxes is...hmmm, haphazard? So aim for 4'6" to the bottom of the wains cap trim. This means buying slightly longer material...but your beadboard should be available as 9' lengths. If the space is already drywalled, there will be no blocking to attach your vertical boards to. Liquid nails and cross nailing can work, but keeping the joints tight for painted finish is difficult. With 1/2" drywall, we've had luck using rips of plywood slotted into voids we cut in the drywall. Screw the 1/2" plywood to studs and blind nail the tongue of the beadboard to the plywood. Finding it difficult to keep the material tight? Consider an overglaze on the white beadboard. Antiquing the look, yes, but accentuating the grooves and calling attention to the beading.

Solid advice Ironwood. Thanks for sharing your tips with us! JW