There are links to a lot of good resources on this thread:
Tomato Problem Solver 2

To post pictures, you basically upload your photos to a free service like Photobucket. After that, you copy the "html code" for each picture and include it in the "Message" box at gardenweb and voila! Photos.

SOP for non hosting boards. Thank you.

I'm going to try to post pics of some of my diseased leaves and see what you all think. I hope this works.

[img]http://www.mastercontrollinelinksite.info/gardening/T1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.mastercontrollinelinksite.info/gardening/T2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.mastercontrollinelinksite.info/gardening/T3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.mastercontrollinelinksite.info/gardening/T4.jpg[/img]

Didn't seem to work. No way to edit the message. I guess In shouldn't have added the brackets. How about the moderator editing the links for me?

I went directly to the URLs you listed and could see the pictures. I could assume some sort of disease, but my initial feeling is that it might be fertilizer burn - Especially on the 2nd and 4th pictures.

You mentioned growing in containers, what type of watering / fertilizing have you been giving them?

I could be off base here, but yellowing leaves with brown crispy edges usually makes me think burn from too much fertilizer.

They are in about 3 gallon pots, watered every day, the only fertilizer they have gotten is fish oil emulsion, and not much of it. The soil is a mix made up by a local nursery.

"The soil is a mix made up by a local nursery."

Do you know if they add any fertilizer to the mix? Tomatoes are not particularly heavy feeders, so depending, that could be the problem. It could also be disease still, but doesn't look a whole lot like any disease I've seen.

Considering some of the garbage I found in the soil mix, I doubt that they added any fertilizer. One plant I put in a washtub that has been here for 20 years with dirt in it is growing like crazy. Makes me wonder where they got their dirt.

First, the easy stuff. If you uploaded your pictures to photobucket, you'd see several codes for posting pictures. For GW, you'll need the one that begins with "html", not "img".

Second, your 3-gallon containers are too small. Can you transfer the plants to much larger ones, five gallons minimum and larger is even better in Florida? A large light-colored container will help the roots stay cooler and better nourished and watered as far South as you are.

Now to the important stuff. Some tomato plants are more disease-resistant than others, hybrids usually more than open-pollinated. The longer the string of "disease" letters after a hybrid (like "VFFFASt", (for instance check out Floralina on this page), the fewer diseases that particular variety is likely to be vulnerable to.

Many open-pollinated or heirloom tomatoes are less resistant to diseases and so don't last long in bad years. OTOH, some of them seem to be able to withstand the onslaught of diseases pretty well. But none of them are impervious to diseases. No matter how well you grow them, they can get air-borne or insect-born diseases. I don't think I've seen reliable lists of disease-resistant OP or heirloom tomatoes. But I HAVE seen various threads from Florida and Texas discussing which plants did better for them, so maybe that's a good search to start.

You've probably got a leg up by growing them in containers IF your growing soil is good. Soilless mixes are of course best. And if you don't have self-watering containers, you'll need to fertilize often to compensate for the frequent watering you'll have to do in the heat that washes your fertilizer out of the containers. Some container growers recommend feeding the plants by foliar spraying instead to avoid fertilizer waste.

And last, I'd assume your plants have any of the common tomato plant diseases that can be treated organically. You'll need to remove and bag away from the garden any affected debris, leaves, stems, etc. Your plants may look bare, but that's okay -- they'll fill out again. Then add to your organic arsenal any of the organic solutions to fungus problems, like some of the less-alarming blights and leaf spot. You might look into organic Actinovate and Neem, and organic insecticides like Surround. There are others, too.

Everyone will advise you to first identify the problem before blundering in to treat it with something in hopes that you'll get lucky. If you don't do that, you can use the wrong treatment and not help the plant at all and the problem mushrooms. Also, you don't want to kill beneficial insects and soil organisms.

But if you get basic principles under your belt, in ensuing years your garden will be more and more successful AND healthier as you learn and incorporate what you've learned.

I'm trying to use this summer as a learning experience. That's why I'm here. I finally connected with the Miami-Dade agricultural extension agent, and had a long talk with her. It seems I'm doing several things wrong. I should do well this winter season. At least I hope so. I'm still going to try to grow thru the summer despite everyone saying that it's impossible. My main thing is to find an effective organic fungicide that won't kill me. The recommendation is copper, but some disagree. I guess time will tell.