I hope many seasoned organic gardeners will jump in here and correct me where necessary.

I've learned three tricks on this web site to avoid using inorganic methods. But before I continue, I'll say here that I've learned that the difference between organic and non-organic methods is greatly one of perspective. Organic gardeners work with nature and believe it is often unrealistic to expect complete and permanent eradication of an undesirable plant. Non-organic gardeners often seem to have the attitude that a few applications of a really effective chemical will "solve" the problem once and for all.

So, the first nature friendly method is to mechanically remove. Dig roots out where possible, but where not possible, and EXCLUDING POISON IVY INFESTATIONS, keep everything cut to ground level, with a string trimmer, brush cutter, walk behind mower, goats, whatever. The idea behind keeping the area cut is at first growth may be stimulated, but over time, if roots don't ever have the chance to photosynthesize, they will give up. Obviously this approach won't work for plants that have long horizontal root systems. I am going to try string trimming poision ivy only if I am wearing a bio-hazard suit. :)

The second nature friendly method is to get to know your soil where the weeds are the worst. Then, amend that soil to become much more acid or alkaline, or for a different mineral balance. I've had great luck dealing with weeds that grow in grassy areas by heavily mulching. The decomposition process uses up most of the nitrogen under the mulch, and whatever survives is easily pulled out because the root systems' soil becomes so much less compacted. You say you have violets and poison ivy. These broad leafed plants prefer acidic soil, I believe, so maybe in your case some horticultural lime would help.

The third method, maybe not as nature friendly because you might lose beneficial soil organisms, is called solarizing. Covering the area not only to shade out all light but also to "cook" sprouts can be done with sheets of black plastic. It could get too hot for your earthworms, though.

I'm dealing with a fenceline a bit like yours. As an organic gardener, I am not in a hurry, nor do I expect a perfect urban yard appearance. if I didn't have some plants around I want to keep, I'd just get the goats. :)

This post was edited by pontyrogof on Sat, Jun 14, 14 at 12:51

I would spray with the weed killer of your choice on both sides of the fence, wait a week, and then take old-fashioned hedge sheers and cut it to the ground within several feet of the fence and rake it away from the fence. Then spread cardboard or multiple layers of wet newspaper and cover with 4-6" of mulch in a band 3' wide. One source of free mulch here is from the folks who trim back the lines for the power company. If asked when they are working nearby, they will usually dump in my drive since it's closer than where ever their usual dump site is. Otherwise buy in bulk from somewhere that will deliver. Then it is a matter of being vigilant. Walk the fence once a week and spray anything that grows over or through the mulch. Renew the mulch annually.

As far as the ticks are concerned, get in the habit of checking all your clothing and all your skin and your hair and scalp every time you come inside, and every night before bedtime and every time you take a shower. Where I live, picking up ticks is inevitable, but if I get them before they have completely latched on, I don't need to worry about disease. I check religiously any time I have even walked across the lawn.

You can also ask on the organic gardening forum if you haven't already done so.

If a barrier, such as newspaper or cardboard, is laid down and then covered with a mulch material there would be no need to spray with a plant poison of any kind. That mulch method should provide pretty good control for a year, even with invasive plants, but will need to be done every year to maintain control.
Vinegar, the 20 percent Acetic Acid stuff not the salad dressing stuff from your local grocers may provide some knockdown but will only harm the top growth. Several applications will need be done to cause the plant roots to die.
Eugenol, the active ingredient in EcoSmart Grass and Weed Killer, is not considered a very environmentally good product. It was once used by dentists but due to damage to the soft tissue of the mouth is no longer acceptable. While derived from cloves it is kind of like Rotenone and does harm to the environment more than it benefits.